Suspension Arm Supplier - Page 3

brasiliangringo · #21 7th March 2015, 11:28 AM

I would heed caution doing the tops unless vital as the pinch bolt can be a royal pita ( my s8 had Alu upright so rust weld not present) and cld turn it into a major job if things don't go according to plan.

moltuae · #22 7th March 2015, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brasiliangringo

What makes you think they need replacing ? What wear cld you detect ?

The car is just beginning to feel less tight than it should, and there's a slight knocking over rough surfaces now. It's had a few new arms, bushes, tie-rods, etc over the last few years, mostly of unknown quality, so I just wanted to renew everything and start from a known-good point.

Quote:

Originally Posted by brasiliangringo

I would heed caution doing the tops unless vital as the pinch bolt can be a royal pita ( my s8 had Alu upright so rust weld not present) and cld turn it into a major job if things don't go according to plan.

Thanks for the warning, but I won't be doing the job myself. At one time I would've done. I used to do most of the work myself many years ago, but I have a number of garages that I do work (IT support) for these days, so that'll be their problem. I'll stick to fixing their computers

brasiliangringo · #23 7th March 2015, 04:50 PM

Even so beware and unless they have Audi experience they will equally be unaware. If they are properly stuck the whole upright will need to be removed from the car and or possibly replaced if removing the pinch bolt is impossible or damage is done to it during the process. All of which could, I say could as you may be fine but could rack up a hefty bill. Some bolts I have removed are fine (my old s8) then have done them on a4 b5s and took some industrial action to remove.

moltuae · #24 7th March 2015, 05:07 PM

Thanks.

I might tell to leave the top ones in that case, if they look like they don't need replacing.

Just to be clear, assuming I've got the right diagram here, which ones are we talking about?:

brasiliangringo · #25 7th March 2015, 07:06 PM

10 and 8. If it aint broke dont fix it sort of thing.

The pinch bolt is 25a in the diagram. IF you have an S8 it will have ALu upright (for weight saving) and you will not have a problem removing it. Only an issue with the steel ones.

I also have no idea how to make the picture appear not as a thumbnail ?!

ainarssems · #26 8th March 2015, 06:04 AM

Quote:

IF you have an S8 it will have ALu upright (for weight saving) and you will not have a problem removing it. Only an issue with the steel ones.

I would disagree with this, aluminium ones are less likely to be corroded but if they are corroded it will be a lot harder to get them out then from steel hubs.

You can always use heat to try and free them up or drill them out if that does not help, no need to replace the whole hub.

snapdragon · #27 8th March 2015, 09:33 AM

Mine is aluminium and is 3.0 TDI - I thought all D3 had aluminium.
They were very stuck in due to galvanic corrosion of the dissimilar metals + salt.

Most of the bolt's length is plain (not threaded) shank and after shearing the head off, I was able to knock it in a fair way with an air chisel. I then drilled most of it out which made it reed shape. The air chisel moving it made enough threads stick out the end where the nut was - to enable a big washer and two good new nuts to be put on with lots of grease. What I could then do was to righten the two nuts against the washer - this pulled the rest of the bolt out. Aluminium didn't seem damaged. Don't heat the aluminium with a torch like you would steel as it may melt or weaken it.
This must have taken a few days though as I was searching google, going to work and buying tools and new nuts etc. If I had the facilities of a commercial workshop at the first sign of stubbornness, I would remove the whole strut but in doing so you may as well change all upper and lower.

But not having these, if I was to do it myself again, I would use the drill much earlier on as that was the turning point of it budging.

New parts and bolts were slavered in waxoyl type spray.

brasiliangringo · #28 8th March 2015, 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ainarssems

or drill them out if that does not help, no need to replace the whole hub.

Drilling with a hand drill is a nightmare in situ and honestly going down the drilling route that will leave you with your sanity would require it to be done with a bench drill of sorts and removing the strut. The point about replacing it can be an issue if its stuck fast or damage has occurred in the frustration of trying to remove the bolt - 1st hand experience as have sold them for this reason.

There is a special VAG tool for doing these bolts. The other workshop tool out there is like wrapping a flexible kettle element around the top of the hub, which heats it to huge temperature and expands the outer casing and breaks the bond. I have not used one or seen it in action but have heard they are effective from one source, obviously same idea as heat which is the 1st thing to try imo.

Adrian E · #29 8th March 2015, 11:01 AM

A lot of garages have some kind of localised freezing kit as well, to make the bolt contract more relative to the hub. Mine on my D2 were done using that method and both sides were done in an hour (just upper 4)

tc4332 · #30 8th March 2015, 04:23 PM

Left click on this attachment:-

How 2 Do It Enlarge a Thumbnail.pdf

Click the "OK" in the "Open With" box, (this will use Adobe to display the attachment).
You should, if I have done something correct for once, learn how to enlarge the picture!!!
Sorry to all those who already know this sort of thing, and all the complicated short cuts, but I try to remember that there is always someone out there who needs help.