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D2 - Fuel and Exhausts Everything to do with getting fuel into the engine, and fumes back out again

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  #1  
Old 26th October 2016, 05:19 PM
jt racing jt racing is offline
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Default New Fuel pump

Just said I'd share my week so far....
Driving home Monday night on a back road about 9pm, suddenly loose power and come to a halt. Turns over and won't restart. I have a fair idea it's fuel
Related as there was no misfire just died. Check the fuse to find the fuel pump 15amp is blown. Quick swap and after a couple of seconds that blows too.
Ring my buddy and we tow it to his work, local motorfactors, and I go home.

I pull the pump out Tuesday on my lunch break and we order a replacement for today, (the good one, was a cheapy that was in it) and it landed today

Take a early lunch to fit the new one. Becomes a extended lunch as it's a pig to
get it in the tank, swearing and nearly tears. However after eventually getting it in, and yes I had both panels open for all the difference that made! It starts and runs fine!
I now am back at work, 3hrs later, with the latest sent from texaco splashed all over!
Still at least I can give herself her Astra back....
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  #2  
Old 26th October 2016, 05:23 PM
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There is definitely a technique to getting the pumps back in.... with practise its a sub 10 minute job, first time though, 3 hours aint bad at all

Glad its up and running again, fuel pump used to be the number one cause of breakdown on the D2, more so than gearbox failure....
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  #3  
Old 26th October 2016, 08:57 PM
jt racing jt racing is offline
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Ok a update. Got home eventually, over 2/3rds of fuel in it but it just died till I gave it another gallon?!?!would it not be seated right?
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  #4  
Old 26th October 2016, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt racing View Post
Ok a update. Got home eventually, over 2/3rds of fuel in it but it just died till I gave it another gallon?!?!would it not be seated right?
Yes, the pick up failing even with loads of fuel in the tank is often a symptom of the fuel pump not being sat properly and so not sealing fully.....

I feel some more eau de Texaco coming your way.....

Or just keep it full, which is what folks have been known to do !
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The Daily Town Car - 2023 Tesla Model Y Performance. Black with Black. Giant ipad screen, huge sunroof, 4 wheel drive, Tow bar, lots of ooomph and made in China, so actually built properly unlike the Californian ones.

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The 17 year old Driver Wagon 2015 Skoda Citigo Monte Carlo. Alloys, Power steering, Aircon, Leccy windows, Sat Nav, bluetooth, central locking, cup holders, 59 whole bhp. Million times better than my first car. Well jealous.....

The First 20 Audis:

2001 D2 4.2 QS Silver, 1997 D2 S8 Silver, 1999 D2 4.2 Silver, 2002 D2 S8 Dolphin Grey,
2003 C5 RS6 Blue, 1998 D2 S8 Black, 2000 D2 4.2 QS/S8 Ming Blue, 2003 D3 4.2 Ming Blue,
2005 B7 S4 Blue, 2006 D3 3.0 Tdi Black, 1999 D2 4.2 Silver, 2003 D3 4.2 LPG Crystal Blue,
2000 D2 S8 Silver, 2007 3.0 Tdi Q7 Black, 2009 B8 S4 Black, 1998 D2 S8 Agate Grey,
2006 D3 4.2 Tdi Blue, 2006 D3 S8, 2007 Q7 3.0 Tdi, 2006 C6 S6,

The Second 20 Audis:

2011 A7 Sline, 2001 A2 1.4 Tdi Black, 2002 A2 1.4 Tdi Silver, 2006 A8 4.2 Tdi Blue,
2007 4.2 Tdi Q7, 2006 S4 Cab Silver, 2010 RS6 Saloon Black , 2007 TT Roadster,
2010 A8 D4 4.2 Silver, 2006 C6 A6 2.7 Tdi Quattro, 2000 D2 4.2 QS/S8 Ming Blue (again), 2008 Q7 4.2 Black,
2009 C6 RS6 Saloon Daytona Grey, 2001 Fully Loaded A2 Tdi, 2006 Avant S6 Black, 2007 VW Caravelle Exec Black (almost an Audi)
2009 TT Roadster Daytona, 2015 Q7 4.2 tdi lava grey, 2002 GmbH D2 demonstrator, 2006 D3 A8 LWB 4.2 Tdi Black

Most Recent Audis:

2001 A2 1.4 Tdi Black, 2007 4.2 FSi Q7 ABT Blue, 2016 S5 Coupe Launch model, 2004 S4 B6 Cabriolet, 2016 Q7 Sline White, 2006 Q7 4.2 FSi Black, 2012 Q7 Sline+ 4.2Tdi White, 2008 Blue Audi S8

Everything Else

1989 Subaru Justy, 1986 Vauxhall Cartlton 2.0 GL, 1985 Vauxhall Carlton 2.2 CDi, 1987 Ford Sierra XR4x4, 1983 Vauxhall Senator, 1985 Vauxhall Senator 3.0i, 1997 Polo Saloon, 1997 Peugeot 306 1.9 TDi, Ford Sierra Sapphire 2000E, 1990 Subaru Justy, 2000 Subaru Impreza, 2000 Subaru Impreza RB5, 1993 Range Rover LSE, 2005 VW Bora, 2003 Skoda Superb, 2003 VW Passat V6 4 Motion, 1996 Peugeot 106, 2000 Range Rover 4.0, 2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance
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  #5  
Old 26th October 2016, 09:32 PM
jt racing jt racing is offline
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Ok thanks! Sure at least it's at home now so can do it under less pressure! I'll pull apart and start again.... Woohoo!!!
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Old 27th October 2016, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jt racing View Post
Ok a update. Got home eventually, over 2/3rds of fuel in it but it just died till I gave it another gallon?!?!would it not be seated right?
Had the same problem with my car when I bought it due a change of pump. Tried refitting it a few times myself (even bought an endoscope/borescope so that I could see what was going on down there) but I got sick of crouching in the boot whiffing petrol fumes so I decided to let someone else do it. 3 different garages tried and failed, so I continued to drive the car for 3 years, always filling up whenever it got down to half a tank. Eventually I replaced the entire tank. I suspect in my case something may have been damaged/cracked in the tank, preventing the pump assembly from achieving a perfect seal. Hopefully you'll get yours seated correctly on the next attempt
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Last edited by moltuae; 27th October 2016 at 08:59 AM.
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  #7  
Old 27th October 2016, 10:01 AM
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Goran Goran is offline
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Thanks for the reminder, fuel pump is on my list as a preventative maintenance, but I keep forgetting about it. After 15 years on original pump I think its due.
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  #8  
Old 27th October 2016, 05:49 PM
jt racing jt racing is offline
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Fingers crossed I'll get it in properly over the weekend. Was kinda under pressure doing it in the car park/outside mates work/lunch break and so forth!
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Old 28th October 2016, 12:08 AM
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27litres 27litres is offline
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Yes, definitely a trick to it.
Two things are a significant help:
- Make sure the receiving assembly in the tank is hanging off its hook over the filler tube - you'll never get them mated properly if it's not on the hook.
- There's a corkscrew action which makes the pump assembly a piece of **** to remove (anticlockwise) and reenter (clockwise) the tank. Pay attention to its orientation when you pull it out and start your reentry at the same orientation - there shouldn't be any resistance to getting it in or out, if you fight it you're doing it wrong.


Check the hoses on the assembly. I had a split in one of mine which stopped the system pressurising properly and stopped the car from starting.

Whatever you do, do not overtighten the long bolt. There will be minor resistance while it squashes the rubber on the metal rubber gasket. Once it bottoms out (goes solid) stop tightening. The captive nut is in a thin housing. Distort that and you'll never get it undone ever again...
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Last edited by 27litres; 28th October 2016 at 12:12 AM.
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  #10  
Old 28th October 2016, 08:00 AM
jt racing jt racing is offline
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Thanks for the tips! Makes a lot of sense. The hanging of the the filler tube though, what am I looking for there?
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