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  #41  
Old 15th November 2017, 12:54 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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Originally Posted by ulfilias View Post
VCDS doesn't seem to show any faults
I have this problem too, especially noticeable is the hot air runs out in a few minutes with the residual heat (rest) function which I use a lot at this time of year. My VCDS scan shows "V50 circulation pump open circuit" in the HVAC channel.
I need to buy one of these valve assemblies. £1400 new. £45 off allegro.pl, £100ish on ebay.

Not looking forward to fitting.

Hopefully pump can be tested with 12v and a bucket of water before fitting?
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  #42  
Old 15th November 2017, 01:07 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Funnily enough I was going to suggest looking at the auxiliary coolant pump.
I've had to disable it on both on my D2 S8's (due to extreme noise) and it has minimal effect, just a tad slower to warm up the cabin on a really cold day.

But I guess the heat output (and warmup speed) of an S8 petrol engine is very different to a 3.0 diesel.
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2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #43  
Old 15th November 2017, 02:17 PM
ulfilias ulfilias is offline
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Hi There,

I've popped the back shrouds off and the cabin air filter to try and see quite what's what. Gosh it's busy!!! Why they didn't set the break fluid reservoir more to left in the big spare space I don't know!

Seems to be a couple of pipes under it that may be accessible. There's also the big funky flow solenoids block on the right and that's fairly buried and right next to electrics too which mean popping hoses could be fun!

All this not helped by having an LPG install adding more hoses, wires and stuff to move!

Am almost wondering if it isn't easier to flush the whole radiator system???

There's mention of a heater bleed valves

#61
https://www.audiworld.com/forums/a8-...2859358/page7/

Though predominantly American forum, and the location of things do tend to differ???
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2003 Brabus Smart FourTwo (should sell)
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  #44  
Old 15th November 2017, 04:28 PM
ulfilias ulfilias is offline
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Well that was more fun than I planned.....Looking over hoses the return on my coolant tank broke at the neck. Trying to dig the end gently out of the hose so not to loose it, it crumbled as well and this may explain my slight loss of coolant over time.....Guess it had died before as i only gently moved the hoses.
Ebay seems oddly out of 4E0121403C variants and it seems different than any other part!

I've rigged it with a small bit (~3") of 8mm copper pipe that had an olive on it, drilled in to be a tight fit, epoxy around for good measure. Then a jubilee clip as it's a bit smaller outer diameter along with the original spring clip.

I'll replace the bottle when one becomes sensibly available!
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Current :
2005 A8 Sport 4.2 V8 D3 - LPG working!

Previous :
1998 S8 PF 4.2 V8 D2 - Gearbox died ~120k
2002 S8 FL 4.2 40v V8 D2 Prins LPG - Engine valves met pistons ~230K

Also :
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l (Post Apocalyptic makeover)
2003 Brabus Smart FourTwo (should sell)
2003 Mazda Rx8 2.3 (might sell)
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  #45  
Old 28th November 2017, 10:23 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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Well, I just replaced my 4E0959617C valve/circulation pump block today with a used part that was 220PZL (£47) delivered from allegro.pl to UK. That is about 1/3 of UK ebay price.

I tested in the house with 12v DC on the pump and heard it wizz up.
I didn't put 12v on the other connectors in case it damages the solenoid, but they were both 17.6 OHM.

My old one was 4E0959617(A) but I can't see any difference between the two externally. They don't seem to have any manufacture date on them at all.

Quite a fiddly job, the Audi service manual instructions are not much use really, but I recommend using a paint pen to mark all hoses A, B, C, D and the two larger ones from the bulkhead T for top as the last two are especially easy to mix up.

On my 3.0 TDI there is a waterbox cover with an ECU sat on it in the way and these had to be removed and set asside. I also had to disconnect a few coloured multipin plugs in the waterbox to allow me to pull the loom away. The look had a block shaped bung where it enters the waterbox and this can slide up and out to move the loom. The cabin air filter also needs removing.

Now that is as much room as you can get, so time to mark up the hoses and undo the jubilee clips. Then you need to wiggle off the hoses with a scredriver. Remove 3 electrical connectors *which are all keyed so can't get mixed up. The valve is mounts on six (2 upper and 4 lower) rubber carrots. it will pull off these but refitting is tricky.

Once all hoses are off the unit will pull up with some wiggling and you can compre new and old on the bench. Mark the ABCD etc hose postitions on the new part (it helps a lot) and refit. TIP - -I had to remove again and start all over as it would not push down and lock with the 4 lower carrots - You have to remove 2 x 10mm nuts and take out the mounting bracket and fit it to the valves first. Put soap on the carrots and then pull them through the hole with pliars, they stretch a lot and sort of extrude through the hole. The 10mm nuts are easily accessible when in position.

Putting the hoses back on is harder than pulling off. Helps if they are we with coolant was harder the second time by which time they were drier.
Last pipe was the drivers side upper which I used for bleeding, you can just put a garden click on hosepipe fitting to the valve outlet and open the tap a bit until coolantr comes out of the rubber pipe, then pull off hosepipe and fit coolant hose. This does dilute your coolant a bit so can syphon some off and add neat coolant when all finished.

Make sure electrical coonectors are dried with air duster or alcohol before refitting. Back to toasty again, and when your colleagues tell you you should have bought a Japanese car you can tell them this was a Japanese DENSO part.

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Last edited by snapdragon; 23rd April 2020 at 09:19 AM.
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  #46  
Old 29th November 2017, 07:41 PM
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tc4332 tc4332 is offline
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Another damn good "How2DoIt"
Well done.
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  #47  
Old 29th November 2017, 11:24 PM
ulfilias ulfilias is offline
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Originally Posted by snapdragon View Post
Well, I just replaced my 4E0959617C valve/circulation pump block today with a used part that was 220PZL (£47) delivered from allegro.pl to UK. That is about 1/3 of UK ebay price.
That looks interesting. How easy was it to use. I've had a search and there seems to be valves from 130PZL even. Though even after setting up an account and using Chrome translate (works well up to the point of SSL transaction), but really not sure about the ~20PZL postage as that seems the same as Polish....one seemed to have Czech as 80ZPL, which i'd guess UK to be more ?

Lee (still cold after flushing the system)
__________________
Current :
2005 A8 Sport 4.2 V8 D3 - LPG working!

Previous :
1998 S8 PF 4.2 V8 D2 - Gearbox died ~120k
2002 S8 FL 4.2 40v V8 D2 Prins LPG - Engine valves met pistons ~230K

Also :
1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0l (Post Apocalyptic makeover)
2003 Brabus Smart FourTwo (should sell)
2003 Mazda Rx8 2.3 (might sell)
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  #48  
Old 30th November 2017, 09:39 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ulfilias View Post
That looks interesting. How easy was it to use.
I just find their email address and compose an email with the help of google translate asking in unambiguous language if they accept paypal and post to the UK? Most seem to and teh postage is usually cheaper than expected too. There is a risk as just a gentlements agreement on email but I have found them honest enough..
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  #49  
Old 2nd December 2017, 12:02 AM
Mechcanico Lee Mechcanico Lee is offline
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Without even removing the block assembly off the car For a quick ‘ fix ‘ the two barrel shaped parts of the valve assembly are the electro solenoids , undo the cross head screws that hold the outer case this will expose the water control solenoids , pull the solenoids out of the block so the water now has no restriction. Refit it all back together and bleed up and see if your heat returns .
It’s a good test to show if you have blocked matrixes .

In theory the engines water pump can push through the ‘rest ‘ pumps impeller
Iirc the rest pump does not run all the time ....it does not need to when the engines water pump is running but I suppose if the rest pumps impeller seized this could hold flow up to the matrix .

Worth a go before you buy the valve , maybe snapdragon could open his old one up and have a look to see what has failed on his .
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  #50  
Old 3rd December 2017, 08:07 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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OK - took apart quickly as requested.. Pump is open circuit so maybe brushes or blown coil, will try taking nut off shaft tomorrow.

The motor seemes to spin a grey magnetic disc which must drive something magentic on the other side of the sliver aluminium bell-housing.

Removing the barrel shaped solenoid drivers exposes the shafts and both should be out when not energised (as in photo)

Looks good quality bit of kit but not sure worth over a grand.

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Last edited by snapdragon; 23rd April 2020 at 09:18 AM.
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