ENERGIEMANAGER (Battery Regulator)

[Deek]

Hi, can anyone advise how I can test my battery regulater to see if it is the cause of my problems ? if I leave the car for 3/3 days or more remote will not open the car, I can insert key in door and get in, the battery level on MMi is 10%, if I use ross tech to recode the battery by just changing last digit, the battery level rises to 100% and the car all then operates as normal.
When I scan after that I get this.

5 Faults Found:
02273 - Quiescent Current Stage 2
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 98268 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2013.08.16
Time: 19:22:38
It is a brand new battery and can not be flat as when it is re-coded it goes to 100% Do I require a new regulator ?
One last thing, Elerctric hand brake squeels when engaging, pads are 8mm and coded, also the brake holds car perfect, a garage said I should try replacing caliper I think that seams extreme when it all works great, any ideas ?

[PsYcHe]

That code is from last summer, so I wouldn't worry about it, and you tend to get those appearing all the time. There is a battery manager software update which may help.

How much does the EPB squeal? Mine does make quite a noise.

[limoncello]

as PsYcHe says, most likely is a software issue and needs an update from the dealers see here http://www.audi-resource.com/mmifalsewarn.php

[PsYcHe]

Oh.. and get some pics/spec up

[daviesbike]

I recently just did my rear brakes and EPB I fully serviced them pistons out polished everything back up . Took the motors apart, I checked for slack in the toothed belt and cleaned it all out with brake cleaner and re filled it with fresh grease.
I then re built the calipers with new seals and O rings.

Fresh discs and fresh pads

Its now smooth and whisper quiet until it bites the disc (no escaping that sound ) and pistons all free. I also gained mpg as it was slightly dragging as the pistons tend to start to bite as they corrode over time.

The kit is 25 pounds on ebay however I sourced my own parts and it cost nothing apart from the discs and pads.

Highly recommend it to any one.

The trick to stopping the EPB failing is never wear your pads down 50% is the limit for me any more and it has to extend too far. The reason is over time pistons corrode and when forced out to near maximum reach more of the piston is exposed when it corrodes the EPB motor dose not have enugh torque to pull the piston back in if there is corrosion creating resistance. And for the cost of changing your pads at about 40 pounds is far cheaper than a replacement EPB motor

[David's8]

Originally Posted by daviesbike

The trick to stopping the EPB failing is never wear your pads down 50% is the limit for me any more and it has to extend too far. The reason is over time pistons corrode and when forced out to near maximum reach more of the piston is exposed when it corrodes the EPB motor dose not have enugh torque to pull the piston back in if there is corrosion creating resistance. And for the cost of changing your pads at about 40 pounds is far cheaper than a replacement EPB motor

Its always satisfying to have done a good job yourself.

However if what you say above is correct - which i am sure it is - then its a crap design! Also, the point of EPBs totally escapes me! Why? whats the advantage for the extra cost and complexity?