#21
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From the report
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I am using tester like this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/High-...1-b0ec54ce0376 it only goes to 800A rated batteries but even if you battery have higher rating you can just set it to 800A and get a general idea I am not sure what the threshold is but I have seen tester telling to replace battery at 61% health an I think I have seen 74% saying good battery so it must be somewhere in-between. I have also found that health stays at 100% for a long time 4-5 years but when it starts to drop below 90% it goes down very quickly couple of months to 25%
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure |
#22
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Fair point - ideally, i'd call RAC back out so they can retest the battery now its fully charged to see what it reads now.
Battery re-inserted after a 28hr reconditioning charge - pretty easily this time, just looped the neg cable around the nearby stud, then managed to push the pos mounting loop away enough to slide the battery past - 30 seconds this time round. Have hooked up the solar maintainer for now, unlikely i'll get a chance to have a look until the following weekend, which should mean it'll be flat again .... Tempted to buy a fuse tester - would this allow me to pinpoint the culprit? I guess what i don't know is what is considered an excessive draw and what is normal? And to perform the test using the above tester, what would be the best procedure? Wait inside the car for X minutes for car to 'sleep' Assuming i disable the interior alarm sensors? Reading Del's uploaded procedure, I can't interpret the table - ie is it telling me what current draw I should expect or what is considered a high current draw? Is the old school technique of connecting the multimeter in series and pulling fuses unusable with the Audi? Sorry lots of questions....
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Shirish: 2001 S8 |
#23
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@Adrian: That seems a bit drastic just to get the battery out.
I've never had to remove any trim to change the battery in any of my D2 8s. Granted it's a bit of a faff and jiggle to get the battery in/out but it's never taken more than a few minutes. I suppose some batteries probably make it more difficult than others, depending on how well they fit. That's actually the first time I've seen behind that piece of trim ... interesting. How easy is it to remove the trim?
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Mark ------------------------------------------------------ 2002 FE S8 Ebony Black Pearl ------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------ Cars Owned: The Tesla Era: 2020 Model S Performance Ludicrous+ (present) (Black, with all black premium interior and carbon fibre décor, 21" sonic carbon twin turbine wheels and FSD capability) The Audi Era: '97 A8 4.2 (Ming Blue) --> '96 A8 4.2 QS (Dark Green) --> '02 FE S8 (present) The Citroen Era: '84 BX 1.6 RS --> '89 BX 1.9 DTR Turbo --> '94 XM 2.0L Turbo --> '96 XM 2.0L Turbo Exclusive --> '00 Xantia Activa 2.0L Turbo The Banger Era: '76 1.2L Lada VAZ-2101 (Ruski Fiat 124) --> '80 1.7L Morris Ital HL, finished in Ermine White and Rust Last edited by moltuae; 4th April 2016 at 09:18 AM. |
#24
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Quote:
And my battery-changing experience is the same as yours.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#25
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Quote:
I have thought about removing that piece of trim once or twice for other reasons, as it happens, but thinking about doing it is as far as got so far.
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Mark ------------------------------------------------------ 2002 FE S8 Ebony Black Pearl ------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------------------------------ Cars Owned: The Tesla Era: 2020 Model S Performance Ludicrous+ (present) (Black, with all black premium interior and carbon fibre décor, 21" sonic carbon twin turbine wheels and FSD capability) The Audi Era: '97 A8 4.2 (Ming Blue) --> '96 A8 4.2 QS (Dark Green) --> '02 FE S8 (present) The Citroen Era: '84 BX 1.6 RS --> '89 BX 1.9 DTR Turbo --> '94 XM 2.0L Turbo --> '96 XM 2.0L Turbo Exclusive --> '00 Xantia Activa 2.0L Turbo The Banger Era: '76 1.2L Lada VAZ-2101 (Ruski Fiat 124) --> '80 1.7L Morris Ital HL, finished in Ermine White and Rust |
#26
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I've had the other side trim out many times for various reasons, mostly to do with the alarm.
Never actually had it out fully though, just at a "jaunty angle" as illustrated by Adrian, and I can manage that without removing much at all, just a couple of clips, a velcro'ed plastic panel, and a bit of wiggling. I think I had the battery side out (similarly) just once as well, to finish off fitting a full cover there (which needed some slots cutting for the mounting lugs) rather than the standard low clip-on divider.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#27
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It's pretty easy to get it out as HP says. That pic was from when I was changing the tail light, a couple of weeks before the battery died!
I looked at the opening and the size of the battery and just didn't fancy trying to drag it out without an assistant for cable management. Second time going in there took about 5 mins to have the trim out to that level Eta - I didn't try and remove the battery without trim removal but based on experience with our c5 a6 I expected it to be bloody hard work attempting to get it through a hole just slightly smaller than needed! The a6 was a pig. The s5 is no better as its buried under everything else in the boot including the B&O subwoofer!
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===SOLD===2002 Audi S8 D2 Final Edition (yes, really) in Avus Silver with purple extended leather===SOLD=== 2011 S5 Sportback in Phantom Black with black Super Sports leather, 9x20s, tech pack high, adaptive xenon plus, intelligent key, memory seats pack, sunroof, B&O, Audi Drive Select & quattro Sports Diff, DAB, parking system plus 2015 VW Golf GTI Performance Pack in Carbon Grey with black Vienna leather, tech pack (Discovery Pro nav & Dynaudio), DCC, factory towbar and retrofit RVC Last edited by Adrian E; 4th April 2016 at 04:47 PM. |
#28
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So, just ran a VCDS scan, which spat out the following. A quick google suggests the alarm horn can be a cause of battery drains ?
Could the 2 issues be related? ie should i inspect/swap the interior sensor initially? Address 35: Centr. Locks Labels: 8D0-862-257.lbl Part No: 8L0 862 257 P Component: CV-Pump, Alarm, RC D17 Coding: 15179 Shop #: WSC 02313 VCID: 428CD0534E4E043138B-4F08 4 Faults Found: 01370 - Alarm triggered by Interior Monitoring 35-00 - - 00958 - Key 4 09-00 - Adaptation Limit Surpassed 01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 76-10 - Terminal 30 missing - Intermittent 01134 - Alarm Horn (H12) 49-10 - No Communications - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 45: Inter. Monitor Labels: 4B0-951-178.lbl Part No: 4D0 951 177 B Component: Innenraumueberw. D06 Coding: 00001 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: 285862FBC832CE6106F-5142 1 Fault Found: 01462 - Anti-theft alarm ultra sonic Sensor (G209) 53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
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Shirish: 2001 S8 |
#29
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Some of them fails may be related to a low battery.
Clear them out and see what comes back
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Del |
#30
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Thanks Del - I've cleared them but wonder if the alarm horn related codes suggest a leaky alarm battery type issue.
Will give it a few days to see if it returns
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Shirish: 2001 S8 |
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