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D2 - Common Faults Quick links to all known common faults and their solutions

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  #21  
Old 10th December 2021, 04:21 PM
Ronin Ronin is offline
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You can just take out one end of the hose thats in the way and plug it with something (thats what I've done) if you are quick enough, you will lose less than 500ml of coolant.

Then replace the alternator, plug the coolant hose back in, and top the level up with a 1l bottle (once again thats what I've done) and the car has been fine ever since.

It's a good time to also inspect the infamous junction box for the positive cable coming off the alternator and also the chassis ground.

I've had my ground butchered with a helicoil so had to drill and tap a new ground point. After I've done that my charing went up form 13.7 to around 14V instantly.
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  #22  
Old 11th December 2021, 02:21 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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So, after looking at the access jiggling the coolant hoses makes sense, thanks for that.

Quick look today, one thing I have an issue getting to is item 2 as indicated below. Info says Lock nut 15mm A/F. Ok is it a prise out, unscrew or what? I can't seem to get a spanner near it as the other dipstick (one being me) tube is in the way.



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  #23  
Old 11th December 2021, 02:28 PM
Ronin Ronin is offline
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You just have to undo the bolt, the nut is part of the alternator casing and is permanently attached to it
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Last edited by Ronin; 11th December 2021 at 02:30 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11th December 2021, 02:46 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
You just have to undo the bolt, the nut is part of the alternator casing and is permanently attached to it
Now that makes sense. Cheers Ronin.
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  #25  
Old 18th December 2021, 07:08 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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OK. I took out the Alternator today:

Quick look at the junction box - all seems good.


wiggled it so the back end dropped out below.


Removed two bolts from a 'brace' or strap consisting of thin steel which gave enough downward movement to remove the alternator from below. No removal of coolant hoses or fan body to facilitate this



The alternator.


The regulator / rectifier?


I found that there was some 'clutch' when spinning the alternator clockwise, but looking at the overall condition I am thinking it wise to source a new replacement
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Last edited by strummagnet; 18th December 2021 at 07:16 PM.
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  #26  
Old 18th December 2021, 08:06 PM
Ronin Ronin is offline
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Good work.

BTW I have just ordered that coolant hose which runs too close to the AC compressor, its gonna be £20 inc. postage if you still want it. I'll have it by late january
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  #27  
Old 19th December 2021, 11:24 AM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
Good work.

BTW I have just ordered that coolant hose which runs too close to the AC compressor, its gonna be £20 inc. postage if you still want it. I'll have it by late january
Yep. I will take one. Just PM'd you
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  #28  
Old 22nd January 2022, 03:21 PM
strummagnet strummagnet is offline
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It has been a while as have replaced all the front suspension top/bottom arms, links etc with Meyle/Lemforder components, looks shiny (i even repainted the shocks )

Ok, I had the alternator repaired. Back in, reversal of removal and no issue.

Back on the ground and ready to fire up. Turns over no issue at all, trying to 'catch' but not getting anywhere. Earlier in this thread it was stated the fuel pump is at risk of pooping itself. I am beginning to think that may be the case but what am I really looking / listening for? I may not of been hearing the fuel pump, it may of been the HVAC system as sat in the car when trying to start it. How I can check for definitive proof, or is it a given that this is the next item to replace when the the alternator goes FUBAR?

I did crack open the feed to the fuel rail and that was squirting fuel under pressure but this may be residual?
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Last edited by strummagnet; 22nd January 2022 at 03:34 PM.
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  #29  
Old 22nd January 2022, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strummagnet View Post
How I can check for definitive proof
I don't know if this has been mentioned elsewhere in the thread, but if you stand outside the car and turn the ignition on (don't start), you should hear the fuel pump prime itself for several seconds. Of course, that doesn't guarantee that the pump is working 100%.
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  #30  
Old 22nd January 2022, 05:55 PM
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Is the battery sufficiently charged? I’ve had one that having been stood for a few weeks had obviously gotten weak, sounded like it was buzzing the engine over no problem but nary a start to be had. Stuck the charger on it, couple of hours later, started like a new one.
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