WITW - Mark's poorly Dolphin

[RICKY D]

More great progress. I’m glad the engine is salvageable with the replacement head

I’m sure there will be a D2 passing through the unit at some point that will utilise that spare engine

[Markiii]

I'm curious MJ, when you remove the tensioner gauze filter. do you bin the whole thing or just cut out the gauze leaving the surround?

[MikkiJayne]

Bin the whole thing. The gasket under the tensioner provides the seal, rather than the surround of the gauze. That actually sits slightly flush with the mounting surface of the tensioner.

[MikkiJayne]

A lot of work for only three pictures. I finished lapping the valves, fitted new valve stem oil seals, refitted the springs, and refitted the roller rockers







Ready to go back on tomorrow I'll put the cams and tensioner back in once its on the engine since it won't move around like it can on the bench.

[S81]

I've often come across people who are experts at a particular job or task but never anyone that can improve design, manufactor ,dismantle,Refurbish and everything else with such easy and commitment
Great work, a delight to see and read about it

[Markiii]

I have a suspicion it's not as easy as she makes it look

[Markiii]

Never having been that deep in an engine what are the vertical cylinders in the middle?

[strummagnet]

Originally Posted by Markiii

Never having been that deep in an engine what are the vertical cylinders in the middle?

Housings for the spark plugs

[Markiii]

doh of course they are. they look so big from that angle

[MikkiJayne]

Lots of inter-dependent things all happened together today. The headgasket and bolts arrived so I could put the head back on, and the sump came back from powdercoating so I can put that back on too.

New gasket:



Head back on





Cams back in now. Bank 1's cams are easy as they're not opening any valves so they can both go in together easily. Bank 2 is much harder as the exhaust and inlet cams are both partially opening valves and they want to escape in different directions.

To counter that, I put the exhaust cam in first, in a position where it's not trying to open anything.



You can see how it's a bit forward of where it should be...



...especially when the timing bar is attached. This is where it will jump to if the bar is removed without a belt fitted.



Pulled it back with the bar and attached it to the other side



This put the notch in the right place so I could time the two cams together



15 chain rollers to the notch on the other cam



This is the gasket for the tensioner - you can see the raised section which provides the seal around the oil feed to the tensioner



Inlet cam in place. Once the two cams are timed properly with the chain, I'll let the exhaust cam pull forward again by 45 degrees which also puts the inlet cam in a position where it's not trying to rotate and so makes it much easier to clamp down



Cams fully fitted and all the caps torqued down



New exhaust gasket



Manifold and cam cover back on and this side is done too.



Now the heads are on I can flip the engine over and prime the oil system. I poured fresh oil straight in to the oil pump pickup and spun it by hand until the oil filter housing started filling up.



New filter and more oil pumped through almost to the 'top' and then put the cover back on. This will minimise the amount of time the engine has to spin before getting oil pressure back in to all the cam and crank journals from which I've allowed the slime to escape. The cams are all sitting on assembly lube, but even so I don't want to have to push a litre of oil in to the pump and filter before it gets to the cams.



Sump baffle and pump pickup back in place, and silicone sealant on the sump flange



Freshly powdercoated sump back on



This will sit overnight so the silicone can cure, then I can flip it over in the morning and carry on. Yes, the oil will drop out of the pump pickup tube when its turned back over, but there is now oil on the filter side of the pump so the pump will prime very quickly when needed.