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D3 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #21  
Old 14th February 2015, 08:57 PM
Duffy Duffy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Architex_mA8tey View Post
If you leave your EPB switched off when you park the car then lock it, it normally forces your rear parking brakes on both sides to do a quick on/off each side to calibrate themselves. Give that a try and see if it works.
Hi meant to say that I tried this as well, the fault has reappeared today however!

It's like Father Ted "now it's working, now it's not, now it's working, now it's not, etc etc"!
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  #22  
Old 15th February 2015, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Architex_mA8tey View Post
If you leave your EPB switched off when you park the car then lock it, it normally forces your rear parking brakes on both sides to do a quick on/off each side to calibrate themselves. Give that a try and see if it works.
I leave the car fairly regularly with the EPB off, only realising when I return and go to drive off (usually in the office car park). At home I make a point of actually checking its applied before getting out. Fault has remained exactly the same, functionally the EPB works fine.
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  #23  
Old 15th February 2015, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by mannyo View Post
I leave the car fairly regularly with the EPB off, only realising when I return and go to drive off (usually in the office car park). At home I make a point of actually checking its applied before getting out. Fault has remained exactly the same, functionally the EPB works fine.
Do you ever get a fault where the EPB won't let itself be applied? (Normally the handbrake light on the switch flashes at the same time). Another cause of all this can be a faulty EPB control module and if it really bugs you then often the only way is to replace the module with a second hand or new one
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  #24  
Old 15th February 2015, 03:57 PM
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No the brake always works perfectly, physically swapped both motors over today and gave it a blast with switch cleaner and regreased the gearing again, re adapted it once more, it's allowed me to clear the hall sensor error but not the pad thickness one.

Let's see what happens!
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  #25  
Old 15th February 2015, 05:22 PM
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Pretty sure it took me a couple of goes to sort the pad thickness out last time I changed the pads..
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  #26  
Old 15th February 2015, 05:27 PM
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I've done the adaptation process including the test/calibration routine at least 7 or 8 times now.

I'm like a Vietnam war 'grunt' who can strip his rifle blindfolded on that one!

Getting rid of the hall sensor error is a step forward at least.

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  #27  
Old 18th February 2015, 06:20 PM
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This is what the inside of a PB motor looks like. It'd appear that the crack in the casing between the aluminium case and the plastic insert has allowed water in, the grease was mush and the brake was noticeably dirtier than the other one.

The fault has transferred itself along with the motor so I now know it's categorically this that's at fault. For anybody looking to swap them out it's just one electrical connector and 2 T30 bolts holding it in situ.

A complete caliper is £17 plus the vat more expensive than the motor alone (that's for a split new OEM black one) so ordering tomorrow.

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Last edited by Duffy; 19th February 2015 at 05:24 PM.
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  #28  
Old 18th February 2015, 06:57 PM
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That's got someone using a g clamp or something similar to try and push the piston back for a pad change written all over it.
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  #29  
Old 18th February 2015, 07:10 PM
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I was about to type "Surely not, it's only ever been serviced at a main dealer!" then I realised the folly of that position!
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  #30  
Old 20th February 2015, 12:40 PM
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Sorry, I'm a bit late to this one....

For what its worth, I think every D3 I have ever had apart from the 3.0Tdi has a faulty nearside parking brake. Almost always nearside as we've hypothesised that side sees more roadside puddles and water gets in. I assume on the continent they chew through the other side callipers, a bit like prefacelift D2 drivers armrests

In every case I swapped the motor, and only the motor.

In every case it then functioned faultlessly.

The errors were often intermittent, some were permanent. All of them bar 1 was sticking with the calliper open. The one that stuck shut was a real PITA I cursed Richard that day.

That 1 didn't have the calliper wind back tool in the tool kit either. Doh. I cursed Richard further, and replaced the missing tool the next day...

As suggested, swapping the motor is very very easy, and even though buying a whole calliper doesn't cost much more, the extra hassle of fitting it and bleeding etc may not be worth it.

I have seen that exact same crack before, so its obviously a common issue, likely compounded by the increase pooling of water on the nearside usually.

But yours was on the right side, which is rare, but happens...
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