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  #31  
Old 31st January 2017, 01:59 PM
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There was a very good reason that the screen wash was a different colour, one of my ex's topped up her brake fluid with screen wash and then complained the washers still weren't working
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  #32  
Old 31st January 2017, 06:50 PM
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This is brilliant - all these little touches really bring the bay together. I've always hated the vacant space by the power steering reservoir and was toying with the idea of getting the small cover from the 2.8 model, but this looks far, far better and I will 100% be going for this

I have a couple of questions please.

1. Similar to you, I have a matching coolant/oil caps except mine are Porsche but the coolant cap did not fit just like your R8 one didn't. I was working on a similar mod to yours but using an epoxy but I wasn't keen on the gap between the two caps and gave up but you've given me fresh hope . Can I get that bonding stuff over here?

2. If yes, what prep work did you do beforehand? Any rubbing down, any cleaning etc?

picture of mine for reference



Thanks
Rich
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  #33  
Old 31st January 2017, 07:56 PM
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Hi Rich,

Quote:
Originally Posted by RICKY D View Post
1. Similar to you, I have a matching coolant/oil caps except mine are Porsche but the coolant cap did not fit just like your R8 one didn't. I was working on a similar mod to yours but using an epoxy but I wasn't keen on the gap between the two caps and gave up but you've given me fresh hope . Can I get that bonding stuff over here?
The bonding stuff was published on the post above.

3. Options for polyurethane adhesives (I used Option A)
A. Petec 94730 Car Body Sealant Adhesive Putty Black
B. Sikaflex by Sika
C. Sodudaflex by Soudal


I ordered the Option A from Germany: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111646731729
but I'm sure Sikaflex is equally good and can be purchased from any Screwfix store.

The beauty of one component polyurethane adhesive is that it will maintain elasticity for life, which is great for temperature fluctuations in that area. In my opinion, the two component epoxy can crack with time as it is so hard.

I preferred Option A also because it is specifically designed for Automotive industry, where as Sikaflex and Soudaflex are more general purpose. Didn't want to risk expensive parts.
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Last edited by notorious; 31st January 2017 at 08:28 PM.
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  #34  
Old 31st January 2017, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RICKY D View Post
what prep work did you do beforehand? Any rubbing down, any cleaning etc?
The first step is to remove insides from the R8 cap. Remove the valve with pliers. Then attack the bottom of the cap with Dremel tool with cutting disc attached. Start from the middle and do several cuts to remove the central part of plastic directly below the valve. Then work your way to edges with pliers. Just remove plastic by small pieces.

Before gluing I have rubbed inner surface of R8 cap with sandpaper for better adhesion and then wiped with methylated spirit to completely degrease it. This bit of preparation was over the top I must admit, but I just enjoyed taking my time.

I also removed about 0.5mm of plastic from the top of the newly purchased blue D2 cap where all the letterings are. Basically flattened the top. Done it for two reasons: 1. to make it sit 100% horisontal within the R8 cap during gluing process. 2. To save 0.5mm of height since I had a theory that the bonnet will sit too close to the top of R8 cap, which didn't prove to be the case.

The blue cap was also roughened a bit with sandpaper and wiped with methylated spirit directly before gluing.

The *important* preparation step is to mark where exactly the D2 cap will sit/point in fully tightened position in order to glue the R8 cap on top of it so it will be aligned the way you want it. For example, on my car in fully tightened position the R8 cap's handle sits fully horizontal and the warning triangle on it isn't upside down. There is only one gluing position that allows for this. It should be properly calculated. Additional allowance should be given for the new D2 cap gasket to settle with time as well since it'll become a bit squashed in the future, so the cap should be rotated further to achieve full tightness.

Allow 48 hours for adhesive to settle before tightening the cap.

Hope it helps?
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Last edited by notorious; 29th March 2017 at 02:46 PM.
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  #35  
Old 31st January 2017, 08:39 PM
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Sorry - I must have skipped past the part where you list the product in my moment of excitement

Thank you for a very informative procedure kind sir

This is exactly what I thought you would say....my main concern as you state would be lining up the caps perfectly so that it sits correctly!
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Last edited by RICKY D; 31st January 2017 at 08:49 PM.
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  #36  
Old 31st January 2017, 08:40 PM
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Posted to my Facebook today:

"I found the key to the universe in the engine of this car"



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  #37  
Old 31st January 2017, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by RICKY D View Post
my main concern as you state would be lining up the caps perfectly so that it sits correctly!
If you will mis-calculate you will always be able to correct this in future by adding circles of thin film under the gasket or grinding off the gasket a little bit, so do not worry.

Gasket itself is available as separate part number, so can be easily renewed.

P.S. I used 3M masking tape. It is great. And I use OLFA knives to cut it
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  #38  
Old 12th March 2020, 03:23 PM
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Wroks on 2.8 too with some cutting. Thanks for this great mod.

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  #39  
Old 21st March 2020, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notorious View Post
For those who truly love their D2s

It is straightforward mod that took me only 30 minutes to accomplish with Audi OEM parts. Got satisfaction from having a bit of good company with the car


One thing you need to add to this list is one M6 nut (ideally 'washer nut' with a bit of a shoulder or simply a nut and a washer, don't know part number).
Audi or TPS will be more than happy to supply.

This M6 nut attaches the front bracket to pre-existing black bolt that sticks out of steering fluid reservoir bracket and is specifically designed to hold the cover bracket.
I believe that black bolt pre-exists on all facelift D2s (perhaps pre-facelifts will need a hole to be drilled in the bracket for the bolt, but I'm not sure).
That M6 bolt and M6 nut are clearly shown on 1st picture.


Pictures!


Hi Sergey and others

I finally got around to trying to fit this cover - and it’s taken me ages! Perhaps to help others who may follow, my trouble was in locating the ‘black bolt’ to mount the front bracket. OK, so maybe I’m dafter than most, but I could not locate it from the first photo (and there are a few alternatives!). What I now understand (which may be obvious to those smarter than me) is that the power steering fluid reservoir has been lifted out of its bracket (obvious when you see Sergey’s hand in the top left of the photo!) to show the bolt.

I hope this might help those who might follow this thread and are as clueless as I obviously am!
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Current mods: solar sun roof, 20mm rear spacers, 15 mm on front, red brembo callipers, 6k headlights, rear view camera, engine remap, alloy dash dial rings, alloy navi rings, tt/phaeton pedal upgrade, (and custom matching foot rest) dension ipod interface & parrot hands free kit (both fully hidden), av input, tv in motion switched thro' PF switch in blanking plug right of steering column, Audi 'quattro' sill covers, repositioned centre console switches, radio clock, .
Planned mods: auto-dimming rear view mirror, dash cam (as steamship's), fit the ski hatch, refit philips drl's (or maybe not - nope, definitely not - horrible botch!).
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  #40  
Old 21st March 2020, 10:34 PM
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Well done Jim

Miss my D2. Best car of all times.
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