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D3 - Engine Bay Everything under the bonnet

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  #11  
Old 24th September 2016, 10:41 AM
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Great write up, will be of use to many over the coming years I'm sure
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  #12  
Old 15th October 2016, 04:24 PM
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Could someone please give me the details of the engineer that can repair the flaps?

I'd prefer them to remain installed and, just in case I find a problem when mine is done, it would be great to have the details of someone who could do the repair.
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  #13  
Old 21st November 2016, 06:34 AM
daandaman daandaman is offline
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Same for me, I'd like to discuss with the engineer so I don't have to engineer myself.
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  #14  
Old 1st December 2016, 08:49 PM
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If anyone has the details of the engineer that can repair the flaps, I'd really appreciate it.

My car will be going in soon and I'd like to be armed, in case a repair is required.

Anyone?
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  #15  
Old 2nd May 2017, 07:25 PM
s2_bo s2_bo is offline
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I followed this guide and removed my inlet manifold today.
I was advised by the previous owner of the car (who had also had a garage remove the manifold) that the flaps where damaged and the car is also throwing a fault code so I did it in good faith.


Turns out though that after splitting the manifold the flaps where all intact, however they have lots of play, especially in the input mechanism. Its definably not airtight anyway..

Here is a couple of pics (open and closed) and also a video. If you have experience in this please have a look and let me know if its worth removing them and mapping them out now that I have the manifold out or if I should just leave them in after degreasing everything.
Perhaps the fault was down to the amount of play in the system?

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Video:
https://youtu.be/gDPneDxKV8Q

Last edited by s2_bo; 2nd May 2017 at 07:51 PM.
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  #16  
Old 2nd May 2017, 07:56 PM
s2_bo s2_bo is offline
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Also just to add to this great guide, Its possible to partly remove the manifold with out undoing the two t30 bolts that hold on the bracket for the injector wiring.
Once its then lifted out a little they come off much easier as there is heaps more access


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  #17  
Old 2nd May 2017, 08:40 PM
daandaman daandaman is offline
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Hey Bo,

Taking them out is not really an option without damaging the 'bearings' as they are melted into position.
I have yet to find out how the sealing works on the input shaft (where the lever plate is attached) but I expect to find a very thick (maybe square) o-ring in a groove in the plastic so it will probably seal pretty well even though the play is quite excessive compared to a new one indeed.

I would advice when assembling it again to use a non setting sealant so in the future it will be easy to open again.

Now that the manifold is off it pays to renew the seal between the oil filter housing and the block.

Subscribe to this thread because in the future I will notify on here when my PCV delete kit is done so no more contaminating and deteriorating vapors into this relatively weak assembly, and when my repair kit is done for people with broken flaps.
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  #18  
Old 2nd May 2017, 08:52 PM
s2_bo s2_bo is offline
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Many thanks for the advice, so you would recommend to leave it as it is and just clean and decoke everything?
I also noticed on this thread that the pictures show each bearing for the relevant flap is riveted to the casing but when I ran my finger down the inside of the air way behind the bearings there are no plastic rivets sticking through its just smooth metal so perhaps these are melted on like you say.

Anyway thats not really important I just thought it was odd how they seam to be different.

I will do the inlet valves too as they are totally covered with build up of carbon.
Ill have a look at changing that seal on the oil filter housing too if thats worth doing.
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  #19  
Old 2nd May 2017, 09:34 PM
richardracer richardracer is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s2_bo View Post
Many thanks for the advice, so you would recommend to leave it as it is and just clean and decoke everything?
I also noticed on this thread that the pictures show each bearing for the relevant flap is riveted to the casing but when I ran my finger down the inside of the air way behind the bearings there are no plastic rivets sticking through its just smooth metal so perhaps these are melted on like you say.

Anyway thats not really important I just thought it was odd how they seam to be different.

I will do the inlet valves too as they are totally covered with build up of carbon.
Ill have a look at changing that seal on the oil filter housing too if thats worth doing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by daandaman View Post
Hey Bo,

Taking them out is not really an option without damaging the 'bearings' as they are melted into position.
I have yet to find out how the sealing works on the input shaft (where the lever plate is attached) but I expect to find a very thick (maybe square) o-ring in a groove in the plastic so it will probably seal pretty well even though the play is quite excessive compared to a new one indeed.

I would advice when assembling it again to use a non setting sealant so in the future it will be easy to open again.

Now that the manifold is off it pays to renew the seal between the oil filter housing and the block.

Subscribe to this thread because in the future I will notify on here when my PCV delete kit is done so no more contaminating and deteriorating vapors into this relatively weak assembly, and when my repair kit is done for people with broken flaps.
Please can you let me know as well, planning manifold flap delete and decode soon.
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  #20  
Old 18th May 2017, 09:03 PM
s2_bo s2_bo is offline
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I finished my flap delete and decoke last week and have driven the car about 500 miles since then with out problems.

Its made a huge difference to the exhaust noise and I now no longer have suicidal rattle noises coming from the inlet manifold when the car is stationary and blipped to 2000+rpm.
Torque is a little down which is noticeable in 1st and 2nd but a remap should sort that.

None of the flaps where actually broken in my car but the whole assembly was extremely loose hence the rattle. I removed everything including the input linkage and filled the whole with an m14 bolt, nut and lots of sealant.

I also gave the upper manifold assembly a lick of high temperature paint

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