D2 Lower Control Arms

[I am a daisy]

I have to agree with ainarssems, I've just replaced a Meyle HD track rod end, not even a year old. Luckily, it carried a 4 year warranty which the ebay seller has just replaced, on mine the rubber had come away from the pin and was a creakin and a groanin lol. I had thought the HD option wouldve been better, especially as Dem Germans have to meet TUV approval, but what do I know lol.

[MikkiJayne]

That doesn't bode well

[David's8]

Interesting. However, my mileage is so low that I'll take a chance given the price.

[David's8]

I want to do this job myself so are there any major issues with this in terms of tools or potential seized bolts? I appreciate it will need tracking alignment done afterwards but I can get that done locally - I just dont want to get half way thru and then have to hand it over to my (very supportive) Indy.

[MikkiJayne]

You shouldn't need an alignment - there is no adjustment in the lower arms.

The main thing to bear in mind is to only fully tighten the bolts for the rubber bushes once the car is back on its wheels, otherwise they'll be twisted and fail very quickly. Thats not such an easy task with a 8 since they're too long to put on portable ramps, and too damn heavy anyway! The simplest trick is to drive it up on to some large blocks of wood, or a couple of breeze blocks. Tighten as much as you can from underneath (so the bushes don't turn) and then jack up and torque up fully. This is one job where I wish I had a 4-post lift instead of a 2!

Other than that, the front lowers are usually pretty easy - disconnect the ARB link, loosen the shock bolt (don't remove yet), remove the inner bolt and lever the arm down slightly. Use a strap or rope etc to support the strut to the top coil of the spring so it doesn't drop down, then loosen the balljoint nut.

The Audi arms need a special super-size balljoint splitter which I've never acquired so a persuader is the alternative. Normally (!) if you get the nut a few threads clear you can put a socket over it and give it a whack with a lump hammer to pop it out of the taper. Sometimes if it is particularly stuck the steel insert in the ally hub will come out with the taper (in which case lots of whacking and swearing) then you need a 3-arm puller to get the steel insert off the old arm. Put it the insert in the freezer for a while and then push it back in the hub with a G-clamp before putting the new arm back in. Hopefully you'll be lucky and they'll just pop out!

Once the balljoint is released, remove the shock bolt and the arm comes out.

The passenger side has the headlight leveling sensor attached to this arm. The clip should pop apart with a screwdriver and you can then tie the link out of the way. New ones are ~£30 - mine was badly rusted and the link ends were seized so I had to replace it.

Refitting is, as they say, the reversal of removal

[David's8]

Many thanks Mikki. Very much appreciated.

My wish for when we move house (hopefully next year) is for a garage and a 2 post lift - but as you say even that cant cater for everything!

[I am a daisy]

The only thing I would add to MikkiJaynes post is the lower rear bolt for that arm, its a PITA no matter how you do it, http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...rmreplace.html gives a very good run down on the job but I didnt cut the bolt, I dropped the rear of the subframe down and reversed the bolt at re-assembly, and that is just as fiddly to get back in

[David's8]

..and thank you too IAAD, especially for the link. Hadnt noticed that

[MikkiJayne]

It's never occurred to me that the rear bolt would go back in from the inside of the subframe I always just drop the subframe.

Didn't think to mention that sorry - thought we were just talking about the lower front arm.

Oh and that article makes another good point - if you're replacing the arms anyway you can use a pickle-fork to pull the ball joints out. It'll destroy the rubber boot but you don't care if you're replacing them.

[ainarssems]

The only thing I would add to MikkiJaynes post is the lower rear bolt for that arm, its a PITA no matter how you do it, http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...rmreplace.html gives a very good run down on the job but I didnt cut the bolt, I dropped the rear of the subframe down and reversed the bolt at re-assembly, and that is just as fiddly to get back in

I though David was only changing straight arms, no cutting and refitting from inside the subframe or dropping subframe is required for bolts if only changing straight arms. For the curved arms I always cut bolts and refit from the other side. I don't want to drop subframe as it can move sideways and upset camber balance between sides and wheel aligners are very hard to persuade to adjust camber around here. They say camber is not adjustable for the car, I point out that total of both sides is not adjustable but subframe can be shifted sideways so that camber is the same on both sides, they agree that it can be done but say they don't do it. and it's not just one place I have asked.