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| D3 - Common Faults Quick links to all known common faults and their solutions |
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#1
28th August 2014, 11:04 PM
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Dropping charge between alternator and battery. Car won't start.
Not sure where this thread should live so apologies if this is the wrong section to post in.
My car is not starting. Once jumped she drives like a dream, but stop her and she won’t start again. All power gone. We have measured 14.5V coming from the alternator (it is a brand new alternator). At the battery end however it is getting 12V. So we are dropping current along the way. Tomorrow we will trace the loom and see if there any faulty connections. Has anyone experienced this? Is there anything we should be looking for/testing? The only other thing I can add is that a warning light on the dash beeps and comes on. It’s yellow and looks like a lamp. Trying to find an example online but can’t seem to. 
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#2
28th August 2014, 11:29 PM
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I assume you still have the original black Varta battery with the sticker on top of it stating the part number 4E0.
If yes, then it's about the time for it to die so I wouldn't be surprise if it's the battery giving up and getting a new Varta or silver Bosch S5 will then more likely solve the problem. If that's not the case, then you will have to wait for forum Gurus to reply to that and help you investigate this issue. If you would have a VCDS cable and post a scan then that would help.
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 2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10 Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2. 2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car. Standard S-line equipment, no extras. 2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten
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#4
29th August 2014, 07:55 AM
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Battery charge rate is controlled by the battery ECU. If the ECU believes the battery is fully charged, it will not pass the alternator voltage to the battery. You could have a faulty battery ECU. I would scan the energy monitor ECU For faults first, and then suspect the battery.
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Manny 2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles Past 2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue 2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles. 2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles
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#5
29th August 2014, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
 Here is the link to VCDS cable http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHU.html
__________________
2006 D3 S8 5.2 V10 Ceramic Brakes, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI , 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Fingerprint, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Heated Sport Seats, Alacantra, Carbon Trim inc Aluminium Pack 2. 2015 A3 S line 1.4 TFSI - for the missus to keep her away from my car. Standard S-line equipment, no extras. 2006 D3 A8 3.7 V8 - SOLD but not forgotten
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#7
29th August 2014, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
ou also need to change the serial number in order to reset the accumulated battery data back to that of a new battery.
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#8
29th August 2014, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
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#9
29th August 2014, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index...ry_Replacement http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/r...n.html#battery
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#10
29th August 2014, 07:19 PM
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Thank you very much. Turns out the battery I have in the car isn't one of the choices in the drop down menu.
Can pick up an Exide tomorrow. Not the best way to start A8 ownership, but at least it's made me interact and read through much of the forum - you guys rule! - and I'm no longer "glazing over" when it comes to thinking about the computer etc. Last edited by d.f.; 29th August 2014 at 07:52 PM.
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