Draining battery

[mattylondon]

The battery coding is showing null values at the start, but I would change them to zero's (coding is in HEX, therefore 30)

Current:
000001393135313035434654553330373338323831313138

Try:
303030393135313035434654553330373338323831313138

and it's suggesting an Exide battery. I guess it's 110Ah?

That may solve nothing, just a but of house keeping making sure the BEM is happy and knows the capacity.

The fault code logged today, 2018.11.28, in the radar shows a voltage of 11.4v, which is too low. Have you charged it since then? Was this the old battery?

What's with the fault in both analogue and digital radios of can not be reached?

Is the car kept outside? The keyless door lock buttons can cause the car to keep waking up through water ingress or condense at the dew point.

[Exerqtor]

Originally Posted by mattylondon

The battery coding is showing null values at the start, but I would change them to zero's (coding is in HEX, therefore 30)

Current:
000001393135313035434654553330373338323831313138

Try:
303030393135313035434654553330373338323831313138

and it's suggesting an Exide battery. I guess it's 110Ah?

That may solve nothing, just a but of house keeping making sure the BEM is happy and knows the capacity.

The fault code logged today, 2018.11.28, in the radar shows a voltage of 11.4v, which is too low. Have you charged it since then? Was this the old battery?

What's with the fault in both analogue and digital radios of can not be reached?

Is the car kept outside? The keyless door lock buttons can cause the car to keep waking up through water ingress or condense at the dew point.

It's a Sønnak SK1050 battery (105ah) i have in it that's fully carged with AGM mode, and tested with a Exide battery tester (outside of the car when fully charged) and it comes out ok.

The battery has been coded with a Exide battery coder to be a AGM 105 battery to, so i guess it should be ok?

The 11,4v is because i have been derping around with the VCDS (with charger on?). But somethings drawing it.

Regarding the radio fault codes is because i tryed to put in a 2013 Q5 radio unit to get DAB+, well over a year ago but it didn't work and i haven't gotten around fixing it. But the battery drain problem happened so long after i doubt that's the issue since it's been so long without any problems?

And yes the car is kept outside, but all the keyless buttons ( i'f you mean the ones that's on the chrome trim) all work? And no fault codes on them either?

I'm not saying there not the problem with what your mentioning ofc. just saying what i know atm :/ .

[Exerqtor]

Swapped out the faulty parking brake motor yesterday, and redid the coding to 303030etc, drove the car home and had it standing over the night with charger on so that i can proceed with the car after work today.

Today i'm planing to update the MMI and navigation to see if that might help (ditch atempt, but it's needed anyways).


One thing that i find a little strange is that the clock in the instrument cluster still haven't adjusted itself? Even though it's had power (ignition off ofc) since 7pm ish yesterday and until now

[Exerqtor]

And the fight goes on

Did a MMI/Navi update yesterday (had P0022 on the mmi ), and that ofc. didn't go as planned either. First from P0022 to K0031 the "DVD device" update didn't go thru (took retry several times), and at last i had to skip that module. Then went to update from K0031 to K0257 the "MU9307 Device" pooped out. I sat down trying to retry that for well an hour since i don't know what the MU9307 actually is and was afraid it was a needed/high priority system. When i canceled that and all wrapped up i ended up with "MUConsistency -NOK" in the software update device summary.

I later found out that the iginition is supposed to be OFF, which i didn't know when i did the actuall update, i had a 50a supply charger on that i usually use when i update/troubleshoot cars though so the battery voltage never went bellow 12,3v. But apparently that's to low and might be why the updates failed(??)

After that i did a test start and quick function check of the car, and all seemed fine so i went forward with the Navi update and that went without a hitch. So did the MMI/Navi activation after that was done.

So when all that was done i drove the car home for the night (10.30pm at this point), and i tested the navi on my way home, and it worked ish. Route calculated and all that, gasstations and all those icons came up, but i couldn't see the road itself on the MMI, the voice guidance and dash guidance worked though.

So i drove it home and parked the car, without a charger to see what happened. And yeah, it was flat today as well -.-"

But ok, with all that said and done! Is it possible / how do it get to update the two devices that craped out on me? Feel like i have to sort that c**p out before i go any farther with the draining problem

[Delboy]

This is going to be a pain to sort out.

The usual culprits are dodgy door handles

Faulty alarm module

Some part of the mmi keeping the systems awake which i would be inclined to try first as you said the handles all work as they are meant too.

If you buy from eBay a most fibre bypass loop you can isolate parts of the most loop with it and unplug that module to narrow down which device is doing it.

Or if you are handy with a multi meter you can measure the voltage drop over fuses to find the culprit.

[Mechcanico Lee]

Why is battery monitoring/energy monitor ecm not shutting down all ignition circuits when quiescent voltage drops below threshold to ‘save ‘the battery ?

Can you use a shunt inline with battery lead and measure the drain whilst car is asleep , roll boot latch over and wedge the spring loaded press in type switch on boot lid .

After say 20 mins see how many amps it’s pulling out , see if amps is a steady draw or doing any cycling or surging .

My a8 used to have dickie door handles and would wake up through the night when it was raining, but energy monitor would always clip it and I never had a flat battery on it .

I’m wondering if the body module not going to sleep ( gear stick back lighting staying lit ) is a consequence of another draw on a circuit that is not isolated by the energy monitor ecm .

[snapdragon]

My car has often been like this after using VCDS. I used to run a scan for 5-10 mins, shut down, lock up and in the morning a flat battery and battery - 10% on display. It seems better if you make sure you close controllers and unplug the interface from the ODBII port before you turn off the ignition.