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  #21  
Old 6th December 2018, 11:53 AM
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No I diagnosed mostly by checking they work correctly.

They comfort access should work where you get the car to unlock by putting you fingers under the door handle but not touching it.

If you need to pull the handle up to unlock then pull again to open its not working correctly.

For locking it should lock simply by one push of the button on top, if it unlocks again or doesn't lock at all then again it's not correct.

I find if any of these problems present themselves then you will find the battery will go flat as the spurious false signals to kessy wake the car up and drain the battery.
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Old 10th December 2018, 06:16 AM
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No I diagnosed mostly by checking they work correctly.

They comfort access should work where you get the car to unlock by putting you fingers under the door handle but not touching it.

If you need to pull the handle up to unlock then pull again to open its not working correctly.

For locking it should lock simply by one push of the button on top, if it unlocks again or doesn't lock at all then again it's not correct.

I find if any of these problems present themselves then you will find the battery will go flat as the spurious false signals to kessy wake the car up and drain the battery.
Aaah ok, i've checked that out allready and it works prefectly! Except on the trunk, that little aluminium "flapp" inside the handle seases up at times so I
have to check that. But should it be a keyless entry sensor in the trunk as well?

I was supposed to work on the car this saturday, but when i tried to start it it was totally dead lol. The charger apparently have a safeguard built in so if it tries to charge for to long of a time withouth the battery constantly maintaining the charge it poops out x)

So i had to disconnect the positive pole on the battery and restart the charing. Hopefully i get some time to try reflashing the MMI and NAV tomorrow or something.
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  #23  
Old 10th December 2018, 09:43 AM
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Keyless does work on the boot lid too but it doesn't have the proximity sensor. Think once you make the switch it checks for key in that area before allowing it to unlock.

It even knows when the key is in the boot and won't allow the boot lid to be closed with the key in there.
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Old 10th December 2018, 10:22 AM
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Oh snap, didn't know that. Maybe the issue is in the trunk lol.
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  #25  
Old 13th January 2019, 07:32 PM
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Well update time here, i haven't had time to do anything with the car for a month ish. So the last i did was to disconnect the positive lead from the battery and hook it up to the charger and it's been standing there for that time.

Yesterday i connected it and started the car and let it run for a hour to thaw up (jay for winter btw). After that i drove it for an hour or something and everything seems fine.

So after the drive i parked the car 17.00 ish i think, and let i stand overnight. And today i tried to start it again around 14.30, the keyless entry didn't work on the driver door. But it started without a hiccup and i drove it 45 min ish. Then parked it again and let it stand a couple hours, and again the keyless didn't work but the car started.

So i don't know what the h***s going on with it, haven't gotten around re-updating the MMI and all that. But i hope i can get around doing it the coming weekend.

Going to pick my gf at work 22.30 ish. so i'll see how it works out then.

EDIT:

Oh and yeah Delboy, when your door handles went **** up, did the proximity sensor stop working or the micro switch to lock up the car?
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  #26  
Old 15th January 2019, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Exerqtor View Post
Well update time here, i haven't had time to do anything with the car for a month ish. So the last i did was to disconnect the positive lead from the battery and hook it up to the charger and it's been standing there for that time.

Yesterday i connected it and started the car and let it run for a hour to thaw up (jay for winter btw). After that i drove it for an hour or something and everything seems fine.

So after the drive i parked the car 17.00 ish i think, and let i stand overnight. And today i tried to start it again around 14.30, the keyless entry didn't work on the driver door. But it started without a hiccup and i drove it 45 min ish. Then parked it again and let it stand a couple hours, and again the keyless didn't work but the car started.

So i don't know what the h***s going on with it, haven't gotten around re-updating the MMI and all that. But i hope i can get around doing it the coming weekend.

Going to pick my gf at work 22.30 ish. so i'll see how it works out then.

EDIT:

Oh and yeah Delboy, when your door handles went **** up, did the proximity sensor stop working or the micro switch to lock up the car?

Both have failed on various handles, not both on same handle if iirc.

Was taking to another 8 owner about drains and we were wondering if access to a flir camera would help to trace a parasitic drain by looking for a warm fuse. You could also use freeze spray on fuses and see which one melts the ice vapor off it first.
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Old 15th January 2019, 06:42 PM
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What about getting some 5w 12v tail bulbs and soldering to wire with 2x mini spade connectors the same size as those on the fuses. You could try the bulb in various suspected positions and the bulb should not light up when the car is parked up.
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Last edited by snapdragon; 1st February 2019 at 04:30 PM.
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  #28  
Old 1st February 2019, 06:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Delboy View Post
Both have failed on various handles, not both on same handle if iirc.

Was taking to another 8 owner about drains and we were wondering if access to a flir camera would help to trace a parasitic drain by looking for a warm fuse. You could also use freeze spray on fuses and see which one melts the ice vapor off it first.
Ah ok, well i that just suck lol. Haven't got a Flir avalible, and it's almost -18C here atm so i have no plans of standing outside trying to find the problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by snapdragon View Post
What about getting some 5w 12v tail bulbs and soldering to wire with 2x mini spade connectors the same size as those on the fuses. You could try the bulb in various suspected positions and the bulb should not light up when the car is parked up. Maybe LED would be even better.
Going to go out on a branch and asume it's the alternator that's got a blown diode, since it don't drain 100% of the times after parking the car. I.O the lucky couple times it haven't drained the brushed have stoped away from the winding with the broken diode attached to it.

Since were speaking of an 105Ah battery draining in 6ish hours i'm looking at a 15A(ish) draw, and it's not many components that can have that draw without being FUBAR to the degree where it still works while driving and don't make any fault codes.

Drove the car to work today and the plan is to get some job done over the weekend, first of all deleting the NAV partion on the HDD thru green-menu and then do an emergency update reverting to the oldest version i have on a SD and hope i can successfully update everything now that i know i have to have the ignition OFF during the process. If that works out i'm going to start searching for the power draw.

But do anyone here have a wiring diagram for the engine/charging system? (My VIN is: WAUZZZ4E4AN004593 ).
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  #29  
Old 1st February 2019, 04:38 PM
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I am seeing a 1.5A DC drain on my Amp-Clamp when taking the rubbish out and popping the trunk to check. My boot lights are LED so it is not them..
The meter has a min and max function which I will use to see if it settles down to a lower current some time after the boot is closed.
If the weather was better, I would just flick the catch to make it think the boot's closed and keep checking it.
I suppose I could also do a video call from another mobile phone and leave the line open to keep checking.

For anyone who wants one, I recommend one that doesn't auto power off too soon - mine is 30mins.

Interesting theory about the diode for the alternator.

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Last edited by snapdragon; 1st February 2019 at 04:43 PM.
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  #30  
Old 3rd February 2019, 05:40 PM
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Ok, so now i finally have gotten the MMI and everything up to the newest firmware. And everythinh is seemingly ok function wise. Just parked the car after a little trip down town and back home. Let's see if it's empty tomorrow morning (witch i suspect it to be).

EDIT 04.02.2019 06:45:
Well the car started this morning with no hickups, so i've driven it to work. Let's see how it behaves in 7,5 hours when I'm finished @ work lol.

EDIT 04.02.2019 11:15:
So the saga continues, just went out and checked how things were. And sure enough it was so drained the keyless entry have pooped out, and so low that the starter just clicked if i tried to start it. And this is in just 4 hours!! 105Ah battery drained bellow critical in 4hours, great.. Pulled of the + pole and hoocked up the carger again.....
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2010 D3 A8L 3.0 TDI QUATTRO
BI-Xenon Headlights, Keyless, Bang&Olufsen, DTV, DAB, Rear Camera, BT, TPMS, Soft Close, Auto Boot, AMI, 4 Zone AC, Home Link, All Electric Blinds, Ski Hatch, Black Extended Leather, Seat Memory on Both Sides, Heated / Cooled Sport Front Seats, Electrically Adjustable Rear & Heated Rear Seats Alacantra roofliner, Exterior LED Package, Lane Assist, Adaptive Cruise Control & Heated Steeringwheel ++.

Last edited by Exerqtor; 4th February 2019 at 09:57 AM.
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