Audi S8 2002 - Can't unlock using key - Page 2

moltuae · #11 19th September 2014, 01:05 PM

Ok, I think I found the relevant illustrations.

Before I strip the door down, I'm gonna take a guess that link rod #1 is missing or disconnected. Would y'all agree?

Same rod on this image is #10, I think ...

Looks as though the door should pull that rod up/down.

moltuae · #12 14th October 2014, 06:39 PM

Just for the record, my door lock is now fixed.

It was indeed rod #1 (in the first image above) that was disconnected.

It seems the door had been taken apart by a previous owner/garage and someone neglected to reconnect the linkage.

Interesting though how the electric-only operation behaves when there's no mechanical intervention, especially how the door can be locked (with the key) but not unlocked, unless the ignition has been switched on (with another key) ... bizarre.

Anyway, thanks for all the info and help guys

The_Laird · #13 15th October 2014, 11:47 AM

Pleased you got it sorted - just the same problem as mine a year or two ago.

moltuae · #14 15th October 2014, 12:01 PM

Thanks.

Identical, I'd say ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Laird

the result of a previous owner fiddling about behind the door card and not reconnecting the link, but I'd never noticed because I'd never tried to unlock the door with the key.

... including the bit about not noticing the problem.

If it wasn't for the new key programming procedure, I would probably have never thought to try unlocking the door with a key until it was too late!

Good to know I can now get back in the car should the remote be inoperable, for whatever reason.

The_Laird · #15 15th October 2014, 02:21 PM

Yes, I was in Stranraer (south west Scotland) on a Sunday when my central locking pump failed and I discovered I couldn't get into the car at all!

Norretal · #16 15th October 2014, 02:39 PM

Bit off topic but I went to access my D2 after it'd stood a few months, the battery was flat and the key fob wouldn't open the car. I'd owned it nearly nine years and had NEVER used the key in either the door lock or boot lock. A considerable amount of WD40 and a bit of patience gained me access to charge the battery, but it's the sort of problem I didn't think of until I had it to tackle.

Lesson learned, lube your locks

moltuae · #17 15th October 2014, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Norretal

Bit off topic but I went to access my D2 after it'd stood a few months, the battery was flat and the key fob wouldn't open the car. I'd owned it nearly nine years and had NEVER used the key in either the door lock or boot lock. A considerable amount of WD40 and a bit of patience gained me access to charge the battery, but it's the sort of problem I didn't think of until I had it to tackle.

Lesson learned, lube your locks

My boot lock was the same, which again I only discovered while I was investigating the driver's door lock issue. Couldn't even get the key in it at first, never mind turn it! It was like there was a key broken off inside; turns out it was just compacted road crud.

Lashings of lube did the trick for me too. I usually use this stuff though. Much better and longer lasting than WD40 I find.

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Laird

Yes, I was in Stranraer (south west Scotland) on a Sunday when my central locking pump failed and I discovered I couldn't get into the car at all!

Damn, that must've been somewhat annoying! How did you get back in (assuming you did, and the car's not still there of course!)?

HPsauce · #18 15th October 2014, 03:42 PM

Everyone probably has a favourite, this is mine: http://www.gt85.co.uk/

moltuae · #19 15th October 2014, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HPsauce

Everyone probably has a favourite, this is mine: http://www.gt85.co.uk/

Never tried that one. Does that contain PTFE too? It's the PTFE that makes the big difference, leaving a long lasting coating on the parts.

steamship · #20 1st December 2020, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moltuae

Just for the record, my door lock is now fixed.

It was indeed rod #1 (in the first image above) that was disconnected.

It seems the door had been taken apart by a previous owner/garage and someone neglected to reconnect the linkage.

Thread resurrection time!

Literally just run into this problem today as I was heading out to pick up my brother, but with a slight twist to it. The car sits out 24/7 and was last used four days ago.

The remote fob wouldn't unlock the car, nor did the key. I eventually got into the car by doing a Ctrl+Alt+Delete (disconnected the battery for a minute). Once that was done, I could then use the remote fob to open it. All good... so far.

Collected brother and once back home, dug out a spare central locking pump I bought years ago as a spare. Got that all swapped over believing that to be the problem (including the electronics box bolted to the bottom of the metal carrier) and locked the car. Waited a minute and then tried opening it again using both the remote fob and then the key, but to no avail. Ended up using the battery disconnect again. All the fuses for the central locking were fine.

Pitch black outside and a Google search later I come across this thread, and tested the unlock method with the ignition using a second key as Mark outlined. Doors unlocked fine, and I've used this procedure before during the winter time where I would start the car, turn the heat up and the front and rear demisters and then lock the car with a second key before going back inside for 10 minutes.

I've ruled the batteries in the remotes out as they will work once the car battery has been disconnected/connected and VCDS isn't recording any faults with the central locking, although I do have a leak in the boot mechanism which I noticed several months ago.

Mark - Would you still have that photo you referenced showing the connecting rod, as I'll have to investigate it?