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D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#21
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Quote:
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#22
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OK people the zip sliders which came from amazon (5 different sizes) didn't fit the zip strip on the seat cover so I just sewed it together best I could and it works just fine.
The seam is never visible anyway, so I suggest you sew together yours too unless you want to swear for hours trying to get it to work like I did. I also put a little bit of nail varnish where I finished so the thread would't come loose. |
#23
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Very useful info. Where are those zips? And do you need the seat out of the car to get the covers off?
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#24
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The zips are directly under the back rest. If you put your seat all the way flat as if you were gonna sleep in the car you will see them. I suggest using a C shaped needle for the job haha. Last edited by Ronin; 18th July 2020 at 08:12 PM. |
#25
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Ah, thanks, yes I've seen those zips with the backrest right back. Does that then allow the centre section to lift up out of the way to access the bladders etc.?
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#26
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The air pump and valve block are on the passenger side bolster. You can just trace the pipes coming out of air bags to find them. the bolster is held down with a long wire thats attached to the metal base of the backrest. You will need a flathead to bend up the tabs that hold it down. It looks scary but trust me once you do it its easy it just looks hard. If you do decide to do it i can help you over whatsapp etc. Also i would advise to disconnect the battery as there is an airbag in the seat. Last edited by Ronin; 18th July 2020 at 09:09 PM. |
#27
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Thanks, sounds doable. I know where the valve is partly in the bolster already.
If I get in there I'll just unplug the seat rather than disconnect the battery; done that before when working on seat occupancy sensors so know where the connectors are.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#28
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Ok Also to remove the valve you have to undo the air bag as the only bolt securing the valve to frame is underneath it.
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#29
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Drivers seat now done too in the car. Large picture to show you what i mean.
Same fault: |
#30
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How to change valve block in the car
How to change valve block in the car:
You are doing this at your own risk. Move your seat like this: DISCONNECT THE BATTERY Use your fingers to pull out the zip from the side of the back rest and cut the staple holding both sites together, then undo the zip: Carefully pull the center piece up. There are two green connectors hidden at either end, diconnect them: There is another black cable which prevents the center padded piece from going up, follow it up with your hand until you find the connector disconnect it, then you can pull it out by moving it to either side of the seat. Then carefully lift up the center piece and support it with something so that it doesnt come down, I used a screw driver: Then remove the right hand side bolster padding by bending the metal tabs out with a flat head screw driver. I think there's 6 of them including one at the very bottom of the back rest. There will be another, shorterter zip at the very bottom of the bolster, undo it the same way you did the first one (no pic) Then carefully 'peel off' as much leather as you can, and lift up the foam underneath it which will reveal a sort of a leather pouch, thats where the pump motor and pressure sensors are, follow the tubes coming out of it and you will find the valve block: Once you located the valve block, brake it off its mounting bracket (mine was already broken off) its the only way to do it without removing the seats. Then swap the old valve block for the bmw one: Put everything back the way it was. I used some tape just to hold it together as i was putting the seat back together: And put the seat back together, sewing the zips you opened with a needle like this: Last edited by Ronin; 25th July 2020 at 01:24 PM. |
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