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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #21  
Old 12th September 2017, 02:43 PM
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If i were you i would check out the pads and calipers at the same time. Make sure that the pads are not jammed in the s/steel pad guides and are free to move. If they are not then this will lead to uneven braking /overheating. My wobble under braking was caused by this occuring on one side and made worse by worn arm/suspension bushes. It took complete front caliper refurbishment to sort this fully.
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  #22  
Old 13th September 2017, 10:31 PM
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My D2 braking wobbles on the D3 W12 / S8 brakes turned out to be a combination of the sliders sticking, which were changed and improved things, followed by an on-car skim of the discs which has made everything perfect again now
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  #23  
Old 14th September 2017, 08:58 AM
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Before skimming i would suggest you remove the discs and thoroughly clean the mating faces. The use of grease etc is not recommended here as it can introduce alignment issues.
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  #24  
Old 14th September 2017, 07:32 PM
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i had wobbling at both front and rear when I purchased car 7 years ago. It was especially noticeable when drawing at 70mph on motorways.

Changing calipers, disks and pads to new genuine Audi has completely removed the problem.
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Old 14th September 2017, 07:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notorious View Post
i had wobbling at both front and rear when I purchased car 7 years ago. It was especially noticeable when drawing at 70mph on motorways.

Changing calipers, disks and pads to new genuine Audi has completely removed the problem.
Jeez, Sergei, using your phone is bad enough but drawing is taking it a bit far. You really ought to get a dashcam for that
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Old 14th September 2017, 08:02 PM
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i just hate this iPhone
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  #27  
Old 14th September 2017, 08:19 PM
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But i do agree that this wobble on braking is generally cured by brake caliper/pads/discs refurbishment or renewal and, therefore, is generally initiated by braking issues such as stuck (or sticky) pads and the wobble made worse by worn suspension arms/bushes. I do not subscribe to the "warped discs" hypothesis as there is no evidence (that I have seen or found) that shows that the discs can or have been warped.
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  #28  
Old 29th October 2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Mossyboy1978 View Post
I had a similar problem - judder at about 70 mph and nasty when off the brakes, severe when on them.

Turned out to be a buggered front caliper. One of the dust seals around the pistons had failed and corrosion had set in, leaving that single piston slightly jutting out. No problem at low speeds but as the car got faster and the binding piston heated up, things got tighter and worse.

Caliper refurb has sorted it.

Mossy
having suffered this problem for a while may I suggest the first step in diagnosing the cause ...a temperature gun !
in my case the problem varied according to such thing as...who was driving [eg SWMBO ] ,time of year , type of terrain

so I decided to try a new brake pad material ....the new ferodo non polluting material used as OE ; so bought a set [ 8 pads for a sport ] and went next door to my neighbour's workshop , took out one of his tractors , jacked up one side of the car and removed a front wheel

beginning of problems . couldn't get the pads out !

fortunately my expert neighbour arrived to collect a muckspreader and between us we managed to get the pistons back enough to get the half worn pads out , but one piston would only go back half way ; no problem he said before he rushed off , just demount the caliper and work the piston in and out ....90% of the time you will get it freed off as he has done many times with a G clamp and the foot brake; if that doesn't work it is a refurb job

easier said than done ...could I undo the bolts??? could I **** , extension bar or not [ the pneumatic gun wouldn't budge it ]

unfortunately I am about to go to the UK , so couldn't risk breaking [ excuse pun ] something ; so back in with the old pads , pumped up the brakes [ one piston worked correctly the other not ] and after a while the stuck piston worked properly ie operated the pad ; on with the wheel , went for a run

now I did what I should have done before spending £70 on new pads , temperature checked each disc after use ; lo and behold no vibration to begin with but the disc on the faulty piston side heated up after a number of stops and back came the vibration ....even though not nearly as bad as before

so the moral of the story is ...before spending money on parts or a mechanic lash out £5 at amazon and get a temperature gun from china and check both sides for temperature to see if they balance ...it is highly unlikely both side have a problem to the same extent ; you may have found a cheap elimination for the problem

thanks to whoever introduced me to the temperature gun !
anyone want a cheap set of 8 pad ferodo's for a sport while I am in southampton ?

Last edited by oldnick; 29th October 2017 at 02:40 PM.
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  #29  
Old 4th November 2017, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
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Discs are fairly worn, so will try replacing them after messing with the tyres.

I'll report back.

Tom
Bloody car, the money it eats is ridiculous!

Anyway, tyres and arms made no difference if anything each one highlighted the brake issues further.

Picked her up again yesterday with New front discs and pads and everything sorted now. (For the moment anyway)

However mechanics needed to remove O/S headlight to mend washer fluid motor (for MOT) and somehow during this process discovered that the back of the light was damaged, it was the area that holds the bulbs. Not sure how this happened as they would of needed to adjust it during the initial MOT. Do they get hot and brittle?

TPS would of releaved me of £1100 for a new unit if they weren’t discontinued!

Eventually managed to source a second hand set and now all sorted.

Just waiting to see what the old girl will throw at me next.

I have the N/S light for sale now if anyone is interested, although part of me thinks I should put it in the loft for when the inevitable happens to the other unit !
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  #30  
Old 4th March 2018, 08:14 PM
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I too have been tracking down a front end wobble, I cant say if it would relate to any of the the posts and problems in this thread. Also bear in mind that I have the aloominum hubs/uprights so dont know if this would apply to the steel hubs yada yada. Shudder started after I had to replace O/S hub as the top pinch bolt had been over torqued and had broken the lug off the hub, had to do this to both sides, grrr, so be careful when tightening these top pinch bolts in aloominum hubs (37Nm) The reason I think this might apply is the 70mph shudder, thats what I'm getting

So, onwards, all arms were replaced recently along with poly bushes allround at the front. Now there was never a wobble from the front until I changed the O/S hub. First thought, unknown m ileage on front hub so changed bearing, still wobbles. Started looking for any play in arms/balljoints as I can practically rule out the bushes with them being poly, but still eyeballed them to be sure, no movement at bush end but I did notice movement in the top rear balljoint. Ordered cheapy from ebay to test/replace. As I took the balljoint out from hub I could see and feel that it was still very tight in its socket, changed it anyway just to rule it out. All back together and theres play in the new/replaced top rear arm, exavctly the same movement, grrr, lol.

Took both top ball joints out and swung hub outwards to have a look in the hole for the balljoint, all crudded up with oxidation. Got into it with a Dremel and cartridge roll (dont go heavy in here as you dont want to remove any metal thus making the hole bigger) then replacing the balljoints along with some locktite stud and bearing goop and torqued up (37Nm) and now no wobble from that side but can now feel a slight wobble from the N/S lol so thats getting the same treatment, soon, someday, lol

I know this might not be your collective problem but you have all pretty much covered all the possibilities and symptoms I've had. HTH and YMMV lol
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