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D3 - Body and Exterior Bumpers, bonnets, glass, trims - Everything outside

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  #1  
Old 19th July 2016, 09:22 PM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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Default Number plate bulb holder screws

Doing a pre MOT check on the D3 this evening and noticed the nearside number plate light dead.

I have a replacement bulb, so set about what should be a 5 min job however it was not to be.

First screw came out no problem, so onto the second and its stuck fast. I've tried all sorts to get it to budge but its staying put and in my efforts I have damaged the head giving even less for the philips screwdriver to attach to.

Looks like I'll have to get the MOT place to drill it out or something.

Everything else is working, except this lamp and it's MOT day on Thursday.
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Old 19th July 2016, 10:03 PM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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Yes, they all do it. Drilling it out is hard to not slip and damage the light. I had one so bad, even after destroying the light, Icouldn't get the screw out as what was left was in a recess. I got a new aluminium carrier and two new lights as I was fitting the reversing camera and used plastic screws. M4x15mm IIRC.
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  #3  
Old 20th July 2016, 07:19 AM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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At this point I'd be quiet happy to just lose the screw head so I can get to the bulb, then tape the light holder back in for the MOT until I can replace it.
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Manny
2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles
Past
2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly
with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue
2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles.
2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles
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Old 20th July 2016, 07:55 AM
snapdragon snapdragon is offline
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I remember now, the first time I changed the bulbs the screws were stuck, I mentioned it to my Dad and he cut a slot in the screw head with a Dremmel and used a flat-blade screwdriver to remove it. It also made a groove in the light which was sealed with glue. I replaced the screws with stainless steel.

When I came to remove them to fit the camera, these were corroded in even worse after just two years. I tried to drill them but it was a disaster due to the boot moving when you pressed on and the small size of screw and working at a funny angle with the boot up. Your mileage may vary and maybe my stainless screws were too hard.

I hope it works out better for you.
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  #5  
Old 20th July 2016, 10:57 PM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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This evening I've managed to bodge it for the MOT tomorrow.

I've in effect almost destroyed the existing holder, I used a screwdriver to remove the plastic to the outer edge of the existing holder and with one screw undone I was able to bend it and twist it to get the lens to come free, installed new bulb and used the single screw to hold it on one side and some tape to hold the broken bits on the other.

I've also ordered a replacement OEM new part from the forum sponsors, I still need to get the stuck screw removed but at least the bulb now works.
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Manny
2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles
Past
2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly
with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue
2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles.
2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles
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  #6  
Old 24th July 2016, 11:05 AM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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As my D3 has now passed the MOT, its time to try and sort this mess.

I've got my new OEM part from the forum sponsors, it comes with two new screws and a bulb with holder.

Had a closer look today, removed the now broken part again, and it seems that beneath the stuck screw I have some plastic I need to get out somehow. Once thats done I should (hopefully) be able to get hold of the screw head with pliers or something and see if it will now move. it looks like whoever did the last bulb change allowed to screw to go in wonky and thats why its stuck.

I tried to break out the plastic with a flatblade screwdriver but that did not work, so I'll need a small drill or something to make tiny holes and then try again.
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Manny
2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles
Past
2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly
with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue
2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles.
2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles
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  #7  
Old 24th July 2016, 11:24 AM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Sounds like the D3 setup is as awful as the D2.

In the D2 case (and presumably D3 also) the reason for the metal screws would seem to be to apply enough pressure to make a watertight seal of the lens/cover against the bodywork.
I suspect any fixing that was easier to remove would probably not give a good enough seal resulting in water ingress. As if we don't have enough issues with that elsewhere!

When I get round to drilling out the mess on my D2 I'm thinking of a small cavity fixing used in buildings where the fixing is popped through the hole and is then "spread" as the screw is tightened. Some stay in place when the screw is removed (preferable here) and some just fall away.
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Last edited by HPsauce; 24th July 2016 at 11:27 AM.
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  #8  
Old 24th July 2016, 03:37 PM
mannyo mannyo is offline
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Well I had another bash this afternoon and still getting nowhere.

I managed to get all the old remains of the now broken light from behind the screw, so the screw head is now in thin air. Then I got a good pair of pliers, got hold of the screw head and tried to turn it. The result was the same, nothing budged its still stuck.

On the D3 its not a self tapping screw, but a fine thread standard philips screw. I tried pulling on to see if I could overcome the threads, that does not work either. I don't know whats on the car side of that screw but its obviously not plastic. The screw kind of pivots on the opposite end to the head if put a screwdriver down the side.

Drill it out now is going to be a right pain, as once the head goes there is still 3-5mm of threaded part to deal with.

I may end up getting rid of the screw head, applying something onto the back of the new holder and using a single screw to hold it in place. One screw holds the broken one ok, but there is a small amount of movement on the other side.
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Manny
2004 A4 1.8T Sport Cabriolet, 89K Miles
Past
2004 D3 A8 3.7 Quattro, Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Solar Sunroof, TV, ACC, phone and almost every option. 168K miles rising slowly
with retrofit AMI and DVB-T in place of Analogue
2003 Volvo S60 D5 SE Manual, 197K miles.
2001 D2 A8 3.7 QS, Bi-Xenon, Bose, Blinds, Electric Everything, retrofitted RNS-D, 191K Miles
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  #9  
Old 4th August 2016, 04:05 PM
irelandbuyer irelandbuyer is offline
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Default Number plate Bulb woe's

Mannyo,

Same problems here. Both bulbs had blown and the previous owner had tried to remove the screws and flattened the head. It was totally stuck and no amount of drilling would remove it. Very hard to get purchase and proper alignment without removing the whole unit. Anyway, drilled and totally messed up the holder. Purchased the two lights (4E0943021/4E0943022) so will try to fit them. Think i will have to just replace the whole handle as it is corroded now at this stage anyway.

I think on reflection, i would probably have tried to use a hair dryer or the like to heat up the lens, and see if that somehow makes it easier for the screw to become undone. As you mentioned, it is not self tapping so there's no play in it at all should you have a problem...

ANy chance would anybody know the part number for the handle?
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  #10  
Old 4th August 2016, 05:43 PM
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ScottD3 ScottD3 is offline
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I hate those number plate lights.

My RVC trim turned up and in preparation for painting, I thought I'd strip every off it.

One light removed fine but the 2nd one did not.
One screw snapped and I ended up destroying the other light to remove the screw but failed.
That screw snapped off as well.

So I dropped the plinth off to my mate and hopefully he'll be able to remove the screw and re-tap the threads.

When I got this back from painting, my normal rear plinth will be up for sale, just in case any one wanted it or if you want, you can send me yours and I'll see if my mate can remove your broken screws and retap the threads.
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