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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc.

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  #91  
Old 22nd December 2021, 08:25 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Yes, I can still do the pipes if you remove them and send them to me. I need them intact as I can rescue the primary fittings and the front pressure hose.

Notes as follows:

1, remove the left front hub bolt then remove the 6 inner CV joint bolts.

2, remove the pinch bolt from the left hand upright, pop the upper arms out, and lean it over to the back of the car. Make sure to use a strap / cable tie etc to limit the travel so it doesn't strain the brake hose

**this is assuming the pinch bolts aren't seized. If they are, access isn't as easy but the same thing can be achieved by removing the lower front arm. In this case, support the weight of the hub with a strap so it doesn't drop down and strain the upper arm bushes**

3, with the upright out of the way, remove the spring and damper - two nuts at the top under the rubber covers, one bolt at the bottom. This will aid access to the clamp holding the PS pipes to the body and makes a huge difference to the ease of doing the job - trust me, its worth the time to do this compared to trying to work round it.

4 remove the left driveshaft as well, then remove the inner CV heat shield above it. This allows access through the wheel well and behind the exhaust downpipe to the bolt holding the pipes to the rack. Again as per #3, it takes much less time to remove the shaft and heat shield than it does to try and get the bolt out with them in place.

5, the pipes are clamped to the wheel well on rubber mounts which are very fragile, and held on to those rubber mounts using M6 locknuts. It can help to grab the top of the mount with vise grips to stop them twisting apart while removing the locknuts. Just turning the locknuts on their own will either split the rubber mounts, or unscrew them from the body, leaving the clamp in place around the hoses. These rubber mounts are no longer available!

A pic explaining this is here: http://d2doctor.co.uk/images/PS-pipe-bracket.jpg

6, the two pipes are routed differently at the rack - remove the banjo bolts from the rack (from within the right hand wheel well) and tie some string to each pipe through the banjo fitting. this string will act as a pull-through for the new hoses and will help aid getting the routing correct.

7, the return pipe is one piece and easily flexible so can be just pulled out through the left wheel arch. The old pressure hose will be one piece (seized together) so needs to be carefully wiggled out of the wheel arch, rack end first, then rotating to get the pump end

8, clamp off the fluid supply line to the pump before removing the pressure hose, otherwise it'll dump the contents of the reservoir on to the AC compressor! It may or may not be obvious to do that, but it caught me out the first time when I didn't even think about it until there was a big green puddle on the floor

9 the new pressure hose is in 2 parts (like the original was 20 years ago). Fit both separately then join in the wheel well.

Last edited by MikkiJayne; 22nd December 2021 at 08:34 PM.
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  #92  
Old 23rd December 2021, 06:42 AM
woodpoleman woodpoleman is offline
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Thanks MJ that's great. I'll speak to my garage and get back to you. Obviously not much gonna happen until after the holidays. Have a good one yourself Peter
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