Engine hokey cokey...

MikkiJayne · #1 17th July 2016, 02:12 PM

In, out, shake it all about...

Not what I was planning to do with my Sunday, but decided it was easier to pull the whole lot than to try and get the gearbox out on its own. 4 hours drive in to engine on the floor. I'm getting too good at this

Copper-coated exhaust nuts do *not* like stainless steel bolts. Several of them on the downpipes have seized already after only 300 miles so I'll be replacing those with stainless locknuts.

The gearbox is leaking from the shifter spindle. I think that seal can be changed without cracking it open. I hope so anyway!

Its also leaking from the passenger side output flange, which I didn't change the first time round since you have to press the shaft out of the bearing on that side. I guess I'll do that while its out.

I'll split the engine and gearbox this afternoon and hopefully the replacement TC will arrive in a couple of days so I can put it back together next week.

David's8 · #2 17th July 2016, 03:44 PM

You ARE getting good at that! Well, the weather is cr@p so you may as well do something useful on a Sunday.

Sir WIll · #3 17th July 2016, 05:23 PM

Yeah I just mowed the lawn....

MikkiJayne · #4 17th July 2016, 06:07 PM

Its been 27* here. I would much rather have gone sailing

The irony is, this is guaranteed not to be the last time this lot comes out, since even if the new TC solves the immediate problem there is a manual conversion to come once I've collected all the bits.

If I have to take it out every 300 miles though, I shan't be amused! Took the engine off the gearbox this time - much easier than taking the gearbox off the engine since the engine is pretty stable but the gearbox has a weird centre of gravity which makes it very hard to balance. Propped the 'box up on a pallet and strapped the engine to the crane then just rolled the crane away. Simples

Looks like the shifter shaft has to come out to get the seal out so that's staying put. The output shaft bearing is a standard off-the-shelf part though (6007 C3 for future reference), as is the oil seal. £13 for the pair from Simply Bearings instead of £50 from Audi

David's8 · #5 17th July 2016, 07:02 PM

Hell, Mickki, I was contemplating how difficult it would be to remove the manifold to spay paint it (there's some flaky paint) and was put off by the removal of the injection system..... and you pull the guts out of the car in 4 hrs.

MikkiJayne · #6 17th July 2016, 07:43 PM

The main thing to be careful of when working on the inlet manifold is dirt and grit dropping in to the ports. These engines tend to collect it in all the nooks and crannies around that area so its a good idea to vacuum as much as you can out of there (use a short bit of garden hose duct-taped to your hoover tubes) and then if you can, blast it with a bit of compressed air to make sure its all clean.

Then if you squirt a bit of WD40 at the base of each injector it makes it a lot easier to lift the fuel rail out complete with all the injectors. It'll take some persuading but it'll come eventually.

There are some pics on Audiworld of the S8 manifold in bits iirc but I can't find them. Its best to just take the top off and leave the rest in place as. Trying to take the whole thing off is quite complex as you've got all the gubbins around the throttle body to deal with.

David's8 · #7 17th July 2016, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

......Trying to take the whole thing off is quite complex as you've got all the gubbins around the throttle body to deal with.

Yup, thats where I was gettin concerned but thanks for the tips

MikkiJayne · #8 17th July 2016, 09:29 PM

Found the pic:

Looks like if you split it the throttle body stays put but the flaps come with the top so vacuum and electrical connections to remove but not too hard.

David's8 · #9 18th July 2016, 08:50 AM

Thanks for that Mikki. I would like not to have to mess around with the throttle body for what is only a cosmetic job so its good to know that the TB is part of the lower section and can be left in situ.

ainarssems · #10 18th July 2016, 09:05 AM

I would prefer to take the whole manifold off instead of splitting top half off. As far as I know they are only sold as complete unit by Audi so I am not sure if the middle gasket is available to buy. And I would not want to reuse old gasket in as there would be risk it would leak afterwards. I know 40v and 32V manifolds and throttle bodies are different but I have had 32V manifold off and that was not hard at all, it came off together with throttle body and most of the gubbins, only needed couple of of hoses to disconnect.