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  #21  
Old 23rd January 2011, 01:27 PM
Trophy885 Trophy885 is offline
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Hi All,
Further to my afflicted '8, subsequent trial have derived the problem appears to be temperature related, as when the weather is cold, the car simply won't start and run, it always starts, then cuts out after a couple of seconds.Normally the display won't light, and I have no clocks at all. The other symptom is the clock resets time and date.
Today, I attempted to start it, the clocks lit up, no gauges, but after a couple of attempts, it did start and run, but no fuel gauge, tacho etc, I expect that when I start it in a few minutes, all will be well!
Any suggestions(preferably ones that don't involve checking for fuel with a lighted match!!!!)
Any ideas on where to start, and what to try would be welcome!!
Best Regards,
Steve
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  #22  
Old 23rd January 2011, 03:48 PM
PsYcHe PsYcHe is offline
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Silly question.. will it keep running if you keep your foot on the accelerator?
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  #23  
Old 24th January 2011, 01:08 AM
Trophy885 Trophy885 is offline
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Hi PsYcHe,
the simple answer is no, I have tried, not such a silly question, I am really tempted to think that it is either temp or damp related, possibly both? Many thanks for your thoughts buddy!
Best Regards,
Steve
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  #24  
Old 24th January 2011, 04:16 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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sounds like dry solder joint/joints in instrument panel. no connection when cold but as it heats up and expands makes connection
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  #25  
Old 5th February 2011, 01:13 PM
Trophy885 Trophy885 is offline
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Dear All,
Further to my issues detailed above, I am happy to report that an apparently effective solution has been achieved, another set of clocks was purchased from our humble sponsors, these arrived very promptly(many thanks Dave, Carl and colleagues!)
I found a wizard who liked a challenge, (mobile locksmith with an interest, and the technical ability!!!) drove to his home in Rugby(as I managed to get my '8 going)
He then disembled the new clock set, extracted the mileage and coding chip(thoughtfully placed together by VAG), swapped my existing chip into the new clock set, soldered it back it, refit of the clocks, and Hey! Presto!!
The last two mornings have been a pleasure to hear the burble of the V8 starting on demand!
A huge "Thank You" to everyone who has attempted to offer advice and solutions!
Should anyone need the services of "Ian" please feel free to PM me, or dial direct on 07973960713, He is a true gentleman, courteous, and brilliant.
Sincere thanks to all once again,
Steve
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  #26  
Old 9th February 2011, 01:02 PM
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IT IT is offline
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Sorry to come in late to this thread, and chuffed you fixed it....

Yes, the engine starting, then stopping is a symptom of the Engine ECU not getting the ok from the immobiliser in the instrument cluster. Without the ok, it will shut engine down in < 1 sec usually.

The fact that the cluster was behavign erratically was a sign things wern't well with the cluster, and im inclined to agree that the cold weather was probably agrevating an otherwise in-tollerance bad solder joint.

Good news all working now, and thanks for sharing the details of your specialist, there arnt too many around that can work on the FL clocks as they are advanced for their time in VAG terms needing chip work, nothing can be done through the diag port like preface cars....
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  #27  
Old 11th February 2011, 09:26 AM
Mr K Mr K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr K View Post
Have you got a spare key you can try?

My spare key will unlock the cars, and start the engine but won't disable the immobiliser - so it starts and runs for a second then dies. I have no idea why it does this, but it could be you key that is at fault.

EDIT: just to add to that, my other key works fine. I need to get this sorted, will probably start by checking the key batteries (although they are new and it unlocks the car remotely OK) and then have a look at removing some of the steering column.
This wont help you - but I got some time to play with mine yesterday (see page one of this thread) and realised that the chip is in the top half of the key, next to the blade and not in the remote section. When I built the key into the new case I left the chip in the old bit! refit the old bit and its all happy!
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  #28  
Old 18th February 2011, 05:00 PM
jayzee jayzee is offline
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Looking through my service history, I found last night that my car had new clocks fitted in 2007 to cure the very same problem! Non-start, and instrument pack not working.

Brand new ones from Audi - ouch! Glad I wasn't the one paying!

A common issue?
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  #29  
Old 18th February 2011, 11:17 PM
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Jayzee, how much was the bill? It's important I know and also the part no. Ben will know why!
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  #30  
Old 18th February 2011, 11:48 PM
jayzee jayzee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singh View Post
Jayzee, how much was the bill? It's important I know and also the part no. Ben will know why!

Here goes...

Parts Used: 4D0919931PX CHASSCOMBI £689.92
Labour £ 81.00

Assume the "PX" means reconditioned unit or old one given back for refurb? Not sure.

CHASSCOMBI possibly means code it to the car, so mileage matches up?

Crawley Audi did the work.

HTH
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Last edited by jayzee; 19th February 2011 at 12:21 AM.
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