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D3 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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#1
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Brake discs
Hi guys,
How do i know whether i have 280mm or 310mm discs without taking the wheel off and measuring? The reason i'm asking is i am planning on replacing the discs when they wear down with some EBC ones. Also need to decide which pads to use, green, yellow or red. |
#2
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quote your VIN to dealer and they'll be able to tell you
Anyone on here with Etka should also be able to tell you - they'd also need VIN, which I wouldn't post on an open forum |
#3
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thanks!!
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#4
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Best way always is to measure. I guess we are talking about D2 FL A8 rear brake discs. On the build sticker should be PR codes 1KE for 269mm, 1KW for 280mm, do not know code for 310mm.
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#5
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Just a note on pads and disks. The EBC Yellow pads are good. I have seen a set in Bembo calipers get burnt black from heavy track use and still be fine for the drive home. Personally I would always go for a set of Ferodo DS2500. They have excellent cold bite, good wear and low noise, if a bit dusty.
As for disks I don't rate the EBC disks much, they tend to be noisy and the cross drilled ones are just that 'drilled' and there is a risk of cracking under heavy use. If you want drilled disks go for the ones that are cast with their holes like the Brembos etc. It may sound odd, but a good combination is EBC yellow pads and standard disks. A better combination is the DS2500 and standard disks. For me a set of DS2500 and AP Racing vaned disks are the best if you are happy to pay for top notch brakes.
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Conan (the Librarian) Watch it if you dare Currently, 2000 S8, Merlin Purple, Leather Pack 1, Winter Pack 1, SPAX adjustable suspension, AP Racing 6 pot front caliper, 385mm fully floating disks, EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, Black Diamond grooved rear disks and predetor pads, D2 Doctors Brake Block. 1997 4.2 A8SQ - the Projekt. 12 years and ongoing! 1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard 2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion. 2005 C5 Allroad 2.5TDi FE - Grey - Workhorse. 2015 Q3QS SLine - Daytona Grey. Lots of extras! Long Haired Admirals cutter. Previously 2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex 1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure. 1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex. 2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on. 1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8. And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light. |
#6
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Not looked to see what the availability is like for the '8, but have had good results with Black Diamond brakes in the past - have drilled and grooved on my BX 16V and don't suffer the typical 'groan' under braking and no signs of cracking. Bare in mind it's a very lightweight car though.....
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#7
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Thanks for aall the advice guys. I will investigate further....
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Audi A8 4.0TDI D3 |
#8
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I have always went with cheapest option, I currently have front discs on S8 that I paid £50-60 and £18-19 for the pads and they are holding fine even on heavy braking.
I have had cheap pads on Passat, BMW520 and mondeo that disintegrate from heat but the cheap ones on S8 are holding just fine. Drilled and grooved discs are to get rid of brake dust under heavy braking mostly track use, not much use on every day driving as they reduce surface area and brake efficiency so just for the looks. If you are a dynamic driver who likes heavy braking another thing to consider is brake fluid. It absorbs moisture from air which reduces boiling point and should be changed at least every 2years. I have boiled it on 2 cars where it have not been changed. It's funny feeling when suddenly you loose any brakes under heavy braking when brake fluid starts boiling. |
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