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D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc

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  #11  
Old 25th July 2017, 05:03 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Well, I really don't understand this.
Opened up the connector, all looked good, joined it up again and nothing.
A bit of wiggling, still nothing, then just moved it a bit to try and prod the motor and suddenly it's all working.

Currently it's back in it's mounting clips, appears properly joined, and is all working OK. Trouble is there's almost no slack to work with and just a small gap through the intake flaps to work in.

My suspicion is that somehow one of the (thick) cables isn't terminated properly onto the contacts inside one half the connector as the mating surfaces look fine.
I think I might buy a connector pair, make up a short lead to bridge the two halves and try to work out which side is suspect.
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #12  
Old 25th July 2017, 05:59 PM
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moltuae moltuae is offline
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You could try squashing the pins (very slightly) too to make them a tighter fit. Had a similar problem with my washer motor recently. The connector seemed fine and it worked again when I dismantled half of the car to get to it. Put everything back and the damn thing stopped working again. After stripping the car down again I found that wiggling the wires didn't affect it but pushing on the connector did. So I gave the pins a light squeeze with long-nose pliers and that seemed to fix it.

Failing that, it's probably a bad connection where the wires attach to the pins, as you suggested, but it should be possible to determine if it is that by wiggling/pushing/pulling them.
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  #13  
Old 25th July 2017, 06:17 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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I've already done what I can to tighten the pin/contacts.
Lobbed an email to our sponsors to see if they can supply a pair of connectors (ideally with pigtails) so I can test/experiment a bit more and decide what exactly is giving an intermittent connection.

I guess it could even be at the motor end, which would be beyond my personal capabilities I think.
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #14  
Old 25th July 2017, 06:27 PM
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moltuae moltuae is offline
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If you can't get the connectors, to save cutting wires you could make up a couple of connector 'bypass' leads using 'bed of nails' test clips to determine if the problem is at the connector or the motor.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1pair-Angl...-/281896808055


http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7148281/
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------------------------------------------------------
2002 FE S8 Ebony Black Pearl
------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------------------------------
Cars Owned:
The Tesla Era: 2020 Model S Performance Ludicrous+ (present)
(Black, with all black premium interior and carbon fibre décor, 21" sonic carbon twin turbine wheels and FSD capability)

The Audi Era: '97 A8 4.2 (Ming Blue) --> '96 A8 4.2 QS (Dark Green) --> '02 FE S8 (present)
The Citroen Era: '84 BX 1.6 RS --> '89 BX 1.9 DTR Turbo --> '94 XM 2.0L Turbo --> '96 XM 2.0L Turbo Exclusive --> '00 Xantia Activa 2.0L Turbo
The Banger Era: '76 1.2L Lada VAZ-2101 (Ruski Fiat 124) --> '80 1.7L Morris Ital HL, finished in Ermine White and Rust
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  #15  
Old 25th July 2017, 06:31 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Thanks, I have quite a few ideas on how to bypass the connector, but those look handy.
I do want to avoid cutting wires if at all possible as they are already pretty short.
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #16  
Old 26th July 2017, 06:44 AM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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It might as well be blower motor gone. Quite common in cars with solar sunroof as it's working overtime. When mine went it would sometimes work , sometimes not and if you hit near it or went over pothole it would start working again. Eventually it got slower and more non working than working. I was hoping it's just the brushes worn but turned out that while brushes were low it was mostly due to slip ring/commutator wear so I got replacement from A8parts. I did ask them for one from a car without solar sunroof and the one I received was very good condition with minimal wear.
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  #17  
Old 26th July 2017, 08:59 AM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ainarssems View Post
It might as well be blower motor gone.
If it is, how easy is it to replace?

I actually fitted a cutoff switch on the solar panel circuit to stop the constant tickover of the fan unless I wanted it on, though it had many years before my ownership.
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #18  
Old 26th July 2017, 09:19 AM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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I've just done one. Not easy at all, although I had the engine out which helped considerably!

2 challenges:

1, two of the screws for the blower cover are underneath the rear section of the airbox under the windscreen cowl. You can't remove this section with the blower in place, but you can't get directly to the blower screws with this section in place. I have a tiny ratchet which takes screwdriver bits which allows me to get to these two screws from the side instead. If you don't have such a thing then a flexible screwdriver might work. Failing that, remove the wiper mechanism and then you can detach the rear section and it will move about just enough to get a long straight screwdriver in, assuming the screws are in good condition. To remove that section with the blower in place you need to either remove the brake servo or the electronics box and aircon pipes. Utter madness.

2, in every D2 I've worked on 95% of the screws in the airbox are rusty stumps due to it sucking in our nice damp atmosphere. It takes a lot of patience to dig out the phillips-slots in the screw heads and then still many of the heads snap off when you finally get a grip on them with a screwdriver. A good pair of mole grips works for some of them, but access is difficult to most.

A brand new blower is just shy of £300, but remarkably in UK stock so available next day. I always keep a dozen of the little screws on hand so I can replace whatever does come out with new.
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  #19  
Old 26th July 2017, 10:23 AM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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If it does turn out to be that I might ask you very nicely and have a trip down to Devon.......
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #20  
Old 26th July 2017, 10:29 AM
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Goran Goran is offline
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I can attest to the aircon airbox screws being completely rusted. Already snapped head off one. And this is on a car that lived in Germany. Why didn't they use stainless or anodised screws the cheapskates?
You may want to try mixing up a solution of acetone and vegetable oil (from the supermarket). Around 50/50. It makes for a very good penetrating oil. Leave it soaked for a few hours then it may reduce the chance of those screws snapping.
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