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D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc

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  #1  
Old 21st November 2018, 06:01 PM
hunker7 hunker7 is offline
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Default Few electrical niggles

Hello fellow owners, have few electrical issues on my newly acquired D2.

1. Trip computer won't register that boot is shut? Where is the sensor for that, can't see one separate, is it part of the latch?

2. Lights won't come on in the boot, no +12v to the bulb holder? Could be related to above?

3. When I unlock the car only front interior lights come on? Rear comes on when I turn front on, but they won't come on with the rear switch? Makes sense?

4. Now it's bit chilly outside, trip computer screen is very dark? Once car warms up it's nice and bright?

TIA
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Old 21st November 2018, 07:58 PM
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The display being dim when cold is a common problem. Without replacing it (and there's probably no part available) I dont think there's any solution.
The interior lights and locking mechanism and detection systems are all controlled through a single "Central Locking Alarm System and and Interior Lights Control Module" in the boot on the left side near the wheel well.
The boot lid alarm switch is in the latch mechanism and feeds into this module.

Finding the Module would be a good starter for ten here. As well as getting VCDS scan
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Old 21st November 2018, 08:31 PM
hunker7 hunker7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David's8 View Post
The display being dim when cold is a common problem. Without replacing it (and there's probably no part available) I dont think there's any solution.
The interior lights and locking mechanism and detection systems are all controlled through a single "Central Locking Alarm System and and Interior Lights Control Module" in the boot on the left side near the wheel well.
The boot lid alarm switch is in the latch mechanism and feeds into this module.

Finding the Module would be a good starter for ten here. As well as getting VCDS scan
I'll get it scanned tomorrow and find where the module is and take it from there. Seems like all the issues are related
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Old 22nd November 2018, 08:17 PM
hunker7 hunker7 is offline
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No errors on vcds for central locking
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Old 22nd November 2018, 08:54 PM
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Well, i guess that the boot being detected as open is not a "fault" as it is just recording what the sensor is telling it. Therefore its a faulty sensor.
The interior lights issues will probably just need some patient fault finding.
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Old 22nd November 2018, 09:04 PM
hunker7 hunker7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David's8 View Post
Well, i guess that the boot being detected as open is not a "fault" as it is just recording what the sensor is telling it. Therefore its a faulty sensor.
The interior lights issues will probably just need some patient fault finding.
I'll start with replacing the latch and take it from there.
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Old 23rd November 2018, 08:59 AM
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The rear interior light behaviour is pretty common too - sometimes removing it and cleaning the contacts will help for a while, but from memory the only permanent solution is a new one

Various people have tried to establish the exact cause - have a look for posts by Notorious and HPSauce as I think both have investigated
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Old 23rd November 2018, 06:43 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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The boot latch microswitch is "probably" OK, I have a few spares if you really do need one.....

My experience is that plastic/nylon interior parts of the boot latch wear or break. The "usual" problem (based on my multiple experiences and taking the latches apart) is that the boot will then not latch shut at all or jams.
The microswitch not being triggered is probably secondary - if you take one apart you'll see why.

To be honest, it's best to get a good latch from our sponsors, and check it works properly before fitting as well. (I have been sent a faulty one, which was speedily replaced with absolutely quibble at no cost to me.)
You can check it opens and closes properly by using a chunky screwdriver shaft to emulate the latching post, and test the wiring/microswitch with a multimeter.

Replacing the latch isn't at all difficulty, though you do have to take the boot lid interior trim off to get at it. Due to excess practice I can do that in about 5 minutes!

If you can risk having the car without a boot latch for a few days take it off and investigate. If, like me, it's parked outside and accessible get a spare first.
But if it's failing there's a good chance that when you remove it the damaged parts may just fall out making it inoperable.
__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!

Last edited by HPsauce; 23rd November 2018 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 24th November 2018, 09:04 AM
hunker7 hunker7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPsauce View Post
The boot latch microswitch is "probably" OK, I have a few spares if you really do need one.....

My experience is that plastic/nylon interior parts of the boot latch wear or break. The "usual" problem (based on my multiple experiences and taking the latches apart) is that the boot will then not latch shut at all or jams.
The microswitch not being triggered is probably secondary - if you take one apart you'll see why.

To be honest, it's best to get a good latch from our sponsors, and check it works properly before fitting as well. (I have been sent a faulty one, which was speedily replaced with absolutely quibble at no cost to me.)
You can check it opens and closes properly by using a chunky screwdriver shaft to emulate the latching post, and test the wiring/microswitch with a multimeter.

Replacing the latch isn't at all difficulty, though you do have to take the boot lid interior trim off to get at it. Due to excess practice I can do that in about 5 minutes!

If you can risk having the car without a boot latch for a few days take it off and investigate. If, like me, it's parked outside and accessible get a spare first.
But if it's failing there's a good chance that when you remove it the damaged parts may just fall out making it inoperable.
Boot closes perfectly, and tested with a screw driver and all is as it should be. Already checked with Prestige and they have few for sale on their Ebay store just need to double check the part number. They're not overly expensive so I'll just get a replacement. Hoping it will also fix my interior lights but doubt it .

Is it only 2 wires for the latch or? (Have taken trim off but haven't got round taking latch off yet)
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  #10  
Old 24th November 2018, 10:19 AM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Yes, just 2 wires, you should be able to get at the wiring connector for testing if the trim is off.

(Rear interior lights are a problem I've had and documented here; IIRC the solution for me was to resolder some dry joints in the switch block in the rear interior light unit. I have a spare unit now that I "fixed" in beige)

Back on boot latch switches. They are just held in by a plastic flap/clip and are dead easy to replace, just can't recall if you can do that in situ.
My problem was the plastic parts that actuate the switch, they broke and jammed the latch.
Here's 2 good ones I have immediately to hand:
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__________________
2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!

Last edited by HPsauce; 24th November 2018 at 10:25 AM.
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