misfires

[quattronutter]

on bank 2, 5-6-7-8 misfire codes new plugs,coilpacks swapped,plugs swapped,pos swapped,no vac leaks,symptoms started after running very low on fuel,0 miles on dis when pulling into fill up when the misfiring began,fuel pump maybe?injector[s]?

[Singh]

Ignition amplifier? Say aren't you the famous Aiden from Bahnstorm. I've heard nothing but great stuff about your business, what is it you do. Bodywork?

[quattronutter]

Originally Posted by Singh

Ignition amplifier? Say aren't you the famous Aiden from Bahnstorm. I've heard nothing but great stuff about your business, what is it you do. Bodywork?

all and everything,not too much bodywork these days though.

ignition amps swapped yes,car is also on lpg but injector feeds to the gas ecu have been bypassed to rule out an lpg wiring fault,compression is good and petrol injectors appear to have good voltage,fuel filter is not too old either and fpr is clean

[ainarssems]

ignition amps control 2 cylinders on each side so would not throw faults on one bank.

One bank means O2 sensor on that bank or basic mechanic timing out on that side(cambelt or chain). Could be also clogged or stuck open fuel injector on that side but if it does that on both gas and lpg then probably not.

[quattronutter]

timing looks ok,and lambdas are working ok,maybe it has a dead cat...

[Singh]

The maf?

[ainarssems]

It could be 1 cylinder at fault which throws others off. In VCDS check the measuring blocks for misfires in each cylinder. If I remember correctly it is measuring blocks 19 and 20. If one cylinder has considerably more misfires then the others then you need to troubleshoot that cylinder first rather then whole bank.

[ainarssems]

We checked timing belt today and it was loose and way off about inch of crankshaft pulley TDC mark when camshaft locking tools inserted and slightly different on each bank, looks like it jumped couple of teeth but no visible damage to belt. Tensioner damper damper correct length for cold 136mm. Tried resetting timing but after turning engine belt become loose between camshafts and timing is off again, turning camshafts to tighten up belt moves timing back in position.

Does anybody knows what temps warm and cold is supposed to mean?
It says 136-139mm for cold and 126-129mm for warm? Is it for the ambient or engine temps? I mean You will not be working on hot engine and even if you did by the time you get to tensioning belt it will be well cooled off so what would the point be giving length for hot engine temp. When I did mine it was April and probably around 5-10C and I set damper length at 136mm and it was fine.

We did try setting it at 128mm and that looks much better belt does not come loose after couple engine turns but timing does go a bit off.

So would the cold and warm length be for ambient temp say 5-10C for cold and 20-30 for warm?

Anyway we decided to order new damper and belt and have another go in weeks time.

Belt has been changed 15k ago and markings still on belt not worn off but no information if rollers or damper were changed. Rollers look good, no play in them, does not feel dry and rotate freely so we will leave them but change damper and belt.

If anybody know better about temps let us know otherwise we will try setting it for cold with new belt and damper and if that does not work then set it for warm and leave it like that.

[ainarssems]

Happy to report that new belt, tensioning roller and damper and setting timing right solved a problem. I have to say that when we first started it run fine for a minute or 2 then started misfiring and stalled, I thought what a hell, would have been very embarrassing if that had not solved problem. It turned out that it had run out of fuel, half an hour and 5 liters of fuel later it runs like a champ. What a relief.

[Architex_mA8tey]

LOL I think changing the cam belt etc is enough on its own without testing how low it goes on fuel at the same time!!