What oil and how?

[captain]

Evening.
I have a 4 speed auto 4.2 - which is probably one of the safest boxes. But I'm struggling to find english answers to the questions:

1. Is there a dipstick to check the oil level in the box?
2. What oil does it take?
3. How much should it take?

Found the audi pages guide, but it uses quarts - which I thought were something in deep space 9.

[Architex_mA8tey]

audipages suggests 6-7 quarts which equates to 5.5-6.5 litres of ATF
I bought 7 litres when my new box came but the box was already filled from the factory

[captain]

Originally Posted by Architex_mA8tey

audipages suggests 6-7 quarts which equates to 5.5-6.5 litres of ATF
I bought 7 litres when my new box came but the box was already filled from the factory

Thanks bud.

I have just read about a depressed '8 owner who had the oil changed on his and then it packed up! Not 100% sure I will bother now.
I reckon the oil in it, is original, but I haven't got any problems. Don't want to cause any either!

Do it or don't do it. That is the question.

[Architex_mA8tey]

Well having said that the 4 speed boxes seem a lot more bulletproof
Mine is a 5 speed and I decided not to change the oil when I got the car at 112k miles and the old box failed at 118k so it's a gamble either way!

[PsYcHe]

Reckon I'd leave a 4-speed alone. the 5-speeds are debateable.. I had mine serviced at 90 and 130k and although it had the hunt and thump, both were better after the change and it was still going strong at 150k when I sold it.

Some explode, some dont.. luck of the draw, but the 5-speeds are all essentially a matter of time unfortunately.

[ainarssems]

Gearbox is made by ZF, oil by Esso so You can buy oil either from Audi dealer, ZF or Esso, Esso being cheapest, I do not recall numbers on top of my head but you can find them on net. The thing to consider is that as oil gets older it looses many of it's properties like washing/cleaning and there is more debris in the oil which settles out in corners and crevices. If the oil have not been changed for 100k and you change it later there is a good possibility that fresh oil will lift up old debris that settled out and block small wire mesh filters which will result in loosing couple of gears and slipping clutches because of low pressure. You could still disassemble box and clean it but if you keep driving with slipping clutches it will wear out them quite quickly.

I was thinking I will run my box to the ground and then do a manual conversion when it fails but having second thoughts now. I am thinking of oil change but I would also take it apart and clean it at the same time. Is anybody interested in buying 20l can of oil and split it in half with me(should be around £160 for 20l)? There is 9-9.5 liters of oil in gearbox but if you do not take it off it will only drain 6-7l as some oil is left in torque converter and cooler or if you do a flush then it will take 11-12l.

[Nollywood]

Scary issues with 5-speed 8's.

I've just picked up a 2001 S8, with 99,000 documented miles on the odometer. All MOT's from 2004, full service history and lots of invoices.

She drives fine, but I am doing the manual conversion. I started stock piling parts way before I bought the car. So far, I have:

1 x 6-speed 01E (DSY).
1 x 6-speed 01E (DGV).
1 x 2000 S8 01E shift.
2 x 2000 S8 driveshafts.
1 x 2000 S8 propshaft.
1 x 2001 S8 flywheel.
1 x 2000 S8 engine-to-transmission spacer.
1 x 1998 S8 pedal box.
2 x 1998 S8 01E mounts.

To be purchased:

2000 S8 clutch.
01E clutch slave cylinder.
S8 clutch master cylinder.

There is of course, the well-documented issue of clearance in the tranny tunnel on RHD cars, but there has to be a way. I doubt I'll be using the LHD pedal box I purchased from Germany, but the seller threw it in anyway.

I purchased the DSY 01E prior to getting hold of a complete Euro S8 manual being parted for spares. I'm still looking out for a rear differential from a manual S8, if I can't get hold of one, I'll replace my stock rear crownwheel and pinion with a 4.11:1 unit from a B5 S4 housing, of locate a suitable C5 A6 manual rear axle.

[Goran]

isnt the facelift S8 rear diff already 4.111? it is according to ElsaWin.
why did you need a gearbox spacer, isnt a DGV a direct fit?
I have had an idea regarding the LHD pedal box, rather than mess around with custom pedal boxes, or cutting the frame, it looks like it may be possible to cut down the mounting for the brake master cylinder to bring it closer, and then bash the vaccuum reservoir to fit the chassis. I wonder if there is any harm in bashing the vaccum reservoir, it may still work?

[Nollywood]

Originally Posted by Goran

isnt the facelift S8 rear diff already 4.111? it is according to ElsaWin.
why did you need a gearbox spacer, isnt a DGV a direct fit?

The DGV is the same as any other code in the 01E family. The spacer is to give the correct distance between the clutch pressure plate and throw-out bearing. As the 01E is fitted to so many different models, from an I4 to V8, it's not cost effective for Audi to have a different bellhousing every application.

The 01E is used in the Audi S2, with a spacer, UrS4/S6 with a spacer, B5 S4/RS4 with an 11,5mm spacer. The Audi V8 didn't utilise a spacer to run an 01E, but then it had a flat, non dual-mass flywheel. The S8 40V has quite a thick dual-mass, and without the appropriate spacer, the flywheel / clutch won't have the desired clearance. It might actually not turn with all the bolts tightened. It's definitely the case with the Audi S2 ABY.

[Goran]

Thanks, thats another part I need to get. You wouldnt happen to know the part code for the spacer please? I tried to find it on VagCat but cant seem to find it.