4 beeps from the alarm sounder when switching ignition on?

[Adrian E]

Well that hasn't gone according to plan! Had a go at removing the pins from the old plug - 1 came out fine, but the other 2 snapped 1 was heavily corroded anyway.

I think my best option will be to pop it down to my local indy and get them to put 2 new pins on so I can reassemble the plug.

For now I've just wrapped them in insulating tape and left them dangling, with 1 wire fitted in the new plug.

I think the pins are crimped rather than soldered, so as long as they don't have to trim anything much off the wiring in situ it ought to be possible to do it with the aid of a helper to take the strain on the wire and stop it disappearing!

[Adrian E]

Cut the case open on the old module, just to see what state it was in and this is what I found - basically 1 leaking cell has done a fair bit of damage for a relatively small leak. Cell seems to have swelled as well.

[notorious]

Originally Posted by The_Laird

There's only one bolt on the alarm siren (which is where the batteries are housed). I think A8 Parts have one just now - the later design, but you'll need to check the state of the electrical plug connector too and perhaps get one of those from A8 Parts too.

If not, there's another thread on here with the newer part number and you'll probably find one on ebay. I've done it 3 times now, so give me a shout if you get stuck.

Edit: Part number for the newer siren is 8L0 951 605A

Edit 2: And there's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...+605A&_sacat=0

I'm going to change the alarm module preventively soon and will use the new module with "8L0 951 605 A" part number. Does anyone have experience fitting this new module as it seem to have a bit different geometry?

[The_Laird]

Yes, I've fitted 2 or 3 of these. There are plenty of pre-drilled holes in that area and the new style siren fits easily, although not necessarily in exactly the same position as the old one

[HPsauce]

Agreed, a choice of holes. As noted in another thread I managed to repair mine recently (got there just in time) but couldn't easily get it back in exactly the original location and orientation so bolted it using a more accessible orifice in the same area.

As noted in that thread I used the "recommended" Maplin batteries and with a little light butchery of the plastic battery holder (they are a tiny bit bigger) they were a straight plug and play swap with no soldering required. Still working fine.

Based on experiences reported on this forum I'd say that at the VERY FIRST HINT of a problem with the alarm horn - whip it out and open it up.

[notorious]

Thanks guys. I removed mine and fixed it. It did't leak well enough to damage the board seriously. I will now need to buy batteries and a laquer to spray on board to brotect it again, which I washed with white spirit to remove the leakage, which damaged original laquer. I'm going to drive without batteries. I'm thinking to extend wires out of the siren and have battery in another place which is easier to control. It will also give me a bigger choice of shapes and sizes of NiMh batteries.

Just because I went in that area I also changed the Central locking pump motor.

[Adrian E]

Well half an hour's labour and 3 repair wires later my new module is now connected! Garage replaced all 3 as it also then gives a bit of extra cable to work with for mounting the box, plus the one wire I'd managed to remove intact was tarnished anyway.

Now off to put all the trim back and see if I can figure out how to code the alarm lock/unlock noises so I feel like I'm getting vfm from the cost of a new module lol

Is it guided through basic settings in VCDS or online somewhere how to change the coding? Couldn't find anything on ross-tech wiki

[HPsauce]

Adrian, lots of info online on how to code it via VCDS, but it's not 100% consistent.
I tried to work out what all the bits really mean and "thought" I'd posted it up here somewhere - have a search for alarm coding post by me.
I did identify them all, but don't know what some mean and others don't seem to function "as advertised" either.

If you can't find it I'll look for the coding data document - must be on one of my PC's somewhere....

[Adrian E]

Hiya

Cheers - managed to find a link to 'Audi Base Code Decoder' which on entering my existing coding of 15179 under Channel 35 correctly tells me it's got the window up/down activated via the remote.

Have left auto locking and 1 door unlocking deactivated and have selected alarm beep on locking and it's generated code 16203

Will see how that compares to the auto generated help options within VCDS when I plug the laptop in - assuming it ever stops raining, of course!

[HPsauce]

Found it. This what my decode list looks like, though I don't know what they all mean....:

For Central Locking (35):

+00001 - Rear Lid Opening via Rear Lid Lock
+00002 - Anti-Theft Confirmation via Blink
+00004 - Selective Locking
+00008 - Anti-Theft-System
+00016 - Reverse Lock And Unlock Functions On Remote
+00032 - Locking via Speed (15mph)
+00064 - Comfort Closing via Remote Control
+00128 - Turn Off Continuous Blinking Of Alarm LED When Anti-Theft Armed
+00256 - Rear Lid Logic
+00512 - Remote Control "Close" Confirmation (1x Blink)
+01024 - Confirmation Anti-Theft Warning System Horn Activation
+02048 - Door/Window Logic (USA)
+04096 - Remote Control "Open" Confirmation (2x Blink)
+08192 - Remote Control


Adrian, your 15179 is 1+2+8+256+512+2048+4096+8192 and adding 1024 (confirmation beep) gives 16203.
To activate locking by speed add another 32 = 16235.