What's in the workshop? Gareth's Tree-find - Page 9

Ronin · #81 30th October 2020, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

I'm doing this as well with the parts you linked me to as soon as my mechanic is done withthe car! it looks so good!

MikkiJayne · #82 30th October 2020, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronin

I'm doing this as well with the parts you linked me to as soon as my mechanic is done withthe car! it looks so good!

80mm of M6 threaded bar + two plain M6 nuts for the main body of it, plus two M6 washers and a nylock nut for each end. The bottom where it goes in to the spring-bracket-thing needs 4-5mm taking off the ball joint thread so it clears the control arm, leaving just enough for the nylock to grab it.

I meant to take pics of building it but forgot sorry.

spannerrash · #83 30th October 2020, 01:22 PM

I think you should make some of them, front and rear and sell them on here. I'd buy a pair.

MikkiJayne · #84 30th October 2020, 01:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spannerrash

I think you should make some of them, front and rear and sell them on here. I'd buy a pair.

The challenge with that is that I'm reliant on recovering the metal brackets from the old plastic links so they can be modified for the ball joints. I don't have a stock of the brackets so I make new links per-car and re-use the brackets which come off.

I could probably get brackets manufactured, but that would make the finished product too expensive. The clip for the front arm can only be acquired new by buying chinesium level sensors for the A6, but again that makes them too expensive.

MikkiJayne · #85 30th October 2020, 03:55 PM

I could offer the ball joint links as a service though - either send the old ones and I'll convert them, or I could do one set at a time on an exchange basis. Does that work?

The_Laird · #86 31st October 2020, 09:12 AM

IIRC, you did mine when the car was in for the chain tensioners?

MikkiJayne · #87 31st October 2020, 09:22 AM

Yes I did

spannerrash · #88 31st October 2020, 09:41 AM

What about you just sell the rods, at the correct length, with all the little bits needed to do a diy repair. I'm fairly sure I and many on here could drill out as needed.

MikkiJayne · #89 31st October 2020, 08:42 PM

Yeah thats feasible

A frustrating day today. I got the front panel back on and filled all the fluids. Still no brake hoses so I can't finish the brakes and so can't check the gearbox properly, but the engine starts up with no leaks

However... the replacement fan bearing failed immediately on startup and became loose and rattly

I had to pull the fan, belt etc and replaced it with a good OE one which is all I had available. I will investigate getting a proper FAG or SKF bearing to replace the no-brand one the part comes with, and just use the housing.

After this was all back together the engine was nice and quiet but I noticed the TCU would go in to limp on every startup with a low voltage code

When the code is cleared it's then quite happy, but at every power-up it gets the error so starts in limp every time. Swapping the TCU solved it, which is extra frustrating as I sold my spare S8 PRNDS TCU to Scott the other day to fix his tiptronic problem

I do have a PRND432 TCU spare though so that'll go in for now while I seek a proper replacement.

Finally, I pulled out the jumper I had put in the starter interlock relay before it went on the lift, confident that the replacement wiring harness would solve the lack of a neutral signal from the F125, but it was not to be

Still no start with the relay back in, so the F125 needs to come apart for inspection. At least that doesn't take long on an S8, especially one that's just been apart.

No leaks though...

ainarssems · #90 31st October 2020, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikkiJayne

Yeah thats feasible

A frustrating day today. I got the front panel back on and filled all the fluids. Still no brake hoses so I can't finish the brakes and so can't check the gearbox properly, but the engine starts up with no leaks

However... the replacement fan bearing failed immediately on startup and became loose and rattly

I had to pull the fan, belt etc and replaced it with a good OE one which is all I had available. I will investigate getting a proper FAG or SKF bearing to replace the no-brand one the part comes with, and just use the housing.

After this was all back together the engine was nice and quiet but I noticed the TCU would go in to limp on every startup with a low voltage code

When the code is cleared it's then quite happy, but at every power-up it gets the error so starts in limp every time. Swapping the TCU solved it, which is extra frustrating as I sold my spare S8 PRNDS TCU to Scott the other day to fix his tiptronic problem

I do have a PRND432 TCU spare though so that'll go in for now while I seek a proper replacement.

Finally, I pulled out the jumper I had put in the starter interlock relay before it went on the lift, confident that the replacement wiring harness would solve the lack of a neutral signal from the F125, but it was not to be

Still no start with the relay back in, so the F125 needs to come apart for inspection. At least that doesn't take long on an S8, especially one that's just been apart.

No leaks though...

2 things,
1) could it be aged capacitors in TCU that resulting in low voltage error and be replaced and
2) can it be updated from PRND432 to PRNDS with a software update.