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Old 8th April 2013, 10:57 AM
shropyfella shropyfella is offline
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Unhappy Flashing coil light and MIL

Hi everyone,
My 4.0lt D3 is having a few issues at the moment and I'm wondering if you guys can help me sort her out. She was down on power the other day and then the coil light started flashing. A short while later the MIL light came on as well. This makes her low on power and means I cant overtake anything as she just runs out of steam at just over two and a bit thousand revs.
I've done a scan and the results are below.

3 Faults Found:
19591 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Lower Stop not Reached
P3135 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 651 /min
Torque: 101.4 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Voltage: 14.21 V
Duty Cycle: 89.2 %
Duty Cycle: 20.5 %
Duty Cycle: 0.4 %
Temperature: 40.5°C

17416 - Mass Air Flow Sensor 1/2: Implausible Signal
P1008 - 000 - -
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 966 /min
Torque: 39.0 Nm
Speed: 94.1 km/h
Raw, Form. N/A: 000 000 051
(no units): 74.0
(no units): 1.33

16620 - Manifold Pressure / Boost Sensor (G31): Implausible Signal
P0236 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 126 /min
Torque: 19.5 Nm
Speed: 0.0 km/h
(no units): 2.0
Raw, Index/Key Err.: 255 000 006
Raw, Index/Key Err.: 255 000 040
Absolute Pres.: 999.6 mbar
Absolute Pres.: 1397.4 mbar

Readiness: 0 0 1 1 1

I tried cleaning the MAF by spraying it with electrical cleaner but that hasnt done anything.

At the moment I can clear the faults and she drives ok ish, down a bit on power, but as soon as the ignition is turned off and then on again, the coil light comes back on. The MIL comes back eventually, but not straight away.

cheers.
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Old 8th April 2013, 12:38 PM
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Adrian E Adrian E is offline
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Could be the dreaded inlet manifold flaps? I'd suggest it needs a professional inspection and probably best not to drive it in case it sucks anything into the engine
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Old 8th April 2013, 12:46 PM
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The point at which the Stage 2 manifold valve come into operation is around 3360rpm and the torque figure falls away if the actuator doesnt come into operation.

See: http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2801728 for a good run around this subject.
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Old 8th April 2013, 01:25 PM
ainarssems ainarssems is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David's8 View Post
The point at which the Stage 2 manifold valve come into operation is around 3360rpm and the torque figure falls away if the actuator doesnt come into operation.

See: http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?t=2801728 for a good run around this subject.
That's for petrol V8, his is 4.0TDI with 2 completely different manifolds.

Quote:
Hi everyone,
My 4.0lt D3 is having a few issues at the moment and I'm wondering if you guys can help me sort her out. She was down on power the other day and then the coil light started flashing. A short while later the MIL light came on as well. This makes her low on power and means I cant overtake anything as she just runs out of steam at just over two and a bit thousand revs.
I've done a scan and the results are below.
It's either wiring fault or faulty MAF and boost sensor in which case they will need changing. On the manifold it is either clogged and does not move freely or electrical problem supplying incorrect reading.
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Old 8th April 2013, 01:35 PM
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Good job somebody knows what they're talking about lol - I'll park my thoughts in the scaremongering collection
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Old 8th April 2013, 01:47 PM
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Perhaps there was clue I should have noticed in shropyfella's first few words "....My 4.0lt D3 ...."

I'll go back to polishing and cleaning.
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Old 8th April 2013, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David's8 View Post
I'll go back to polishing and cleaning.
I'll join you lol
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Old 8th April 2013, 06:19 PM
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Who's polishing and cleaning without showing us pictures??

Sounds like at least a MAF issue to me if not boost sensor as well as ainars has already said, MAF's are a bit of an 8 weakness I'm afraid
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Old 9th April 2013, 11:25 AM
shropyfella shropyfella is offline
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Thanks for the response guys. Just a couple of questions, do the codes indicate which MAF, boost sensor and manifold is the problem or is it sensible to change out both sides when a problem arises?
The manifold actuators seem to move freely enough by hand when the engine is off but I've read in a thread somewhere that you can cycle them with vagcom to check if the electrical connections are ok, anybody know how you do that?
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