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D2 - Engine Bay Everything under the bonnet |
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#11
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My post-cat lambda was totally stuck in when they replaced my nearside cat the other day.
They removed it eventually on the bench (to send the old cat back) but the thread was too damaged to reuse. Shame as it was otherwise still perfectly ok. New one cost £67.99 plus VAT, I think from TPS. That wouldn't be a cheap one, my garage only use OEM (or main manufacturer equivalent) so presumably a Bosch one.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! Last edited by HPsauce; 14th March 2015 at 10:57 AM. |
#12
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They are all pretty much the same, i have cut and crimped heads from different number BOSCH sensors provided they have the same number of wires ie 5 wires are wideband narrow 3. Never solder as this prevents atmospheric air from getting down into the sensor head needed by the sensor to calc the diff between normal o2 in atmosphere and that in exhaust gases. I have tried it and you get a code with solder (!) which seals off the fresh air supply from traveling down between the insulation and wire - hard as it is to believe from looking at the wires!
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#13
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Get the Bosch number and search it out like that - diff countries also have different numbers to complicate it but there are some fairly cheap Bosch vendors if you sniff out the correct Bosch PN - whether it works for sourcing one for the S8 i cant say but worth a go..
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#14
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Quote:
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#15
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My post-cat lambda was a Bosch 0258010073. About £70 on Amazon.
I would expect the pre-cat to be similar/identical.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.). 2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one! Finally: gone, but not forgotten..... 1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors. e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later) 1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer. And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850! |
#16
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I have in the past (not on 8) also use different Bosch lambda sensor from different car by just changing the plug from original. I did solder it and it still worked without any issues but it was not easy to solder as the wires were stainless steel instead of copper. Most of them are the same with difference being cable length and plug but there are some odd ones with different size.
As far as narrowband/wideband go most of production cars are narrowband with exception of some exotic cars and fuel stratified engines which run lean. Difference between 3(2) wire vs 5(4) wire is that extra 2 wires are used for heating element to bring it up to temp sooner and pretty much all these days are heated versions except for some older cars. Most narrowband come with 4 wires these days, wideband will normally have 5 or 6 wires.
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Currently 8less 2011 Q7 S Line 3.0TDI, 2016 Tesla Model S 90D 8 history: 2006 A8 Sport 4.2TDI quattro SOLD, 1997 S8, reached end of life with gearbox failure Last edited by ainarssems; 14th March 2015 at 11:38 AM. |
#17
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Plenty of cars have wide band - the Mk1 TT / S3 BAM does and that was made in 2000/2001 not new or exotic really. (All the 2.0 TFSIs have wide band, common as muck)
Soldering is considered a no no for wiring up o2 sensors and that's the manufacturers advice given how they function, not mine. You may ofc get lucky as you did if there is a slight gap with solder to allow air travel. Last edited by brasiliangringo; 14th March 2015 at 12:23 PM. |
#18
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Sorry to hear they are both stuck. I guess its best not to second-guess the mechanic, I wonder if some anti-seize product might dislodge them.
My mechanic removed both of mine from above, no exhaust dismantling needed, at 80k, but maybe I was lucky that they weren't stuck. His trick is to use a crow's foot wrench and long 1/4" or 3/8" extension and remove only the SAI combi valves (polished steel mushroom shaped things on back of the engine block). It was really quick doing it this way. |
#19
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He did the pre cats on an S8 without removing the pipes ?
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#20
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Impressive work on his part if it was. I never gave it any thought but obv is possible if they are not too stuck - worth trying 1st then, but i think you were lucky as they often need a hex deep o2 socket and impact wrench to shift.
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