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D2 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering Brakes, Springs, shocks, steering racks, steering columns, suspension arms, wheel hubs etc. |
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#1
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Clonk with coming to a halt.
Being Scottish, I sometimes pop the thing into neutral when I know I'm going to have to stop soon.
I know it'll use zero fuel if I leave it in drive, but I like seeing a high number on the 'instant fuel consumption' (for a bleedin change). Anyway, if I do indeed come to a halt, there is a fair old thump from under the car in the region of the axle. Only happens on my 'low cost' slowdowns. If I leave it in drive, no clunk. Must be a bush away but which one? |
#2
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Drive in 'Tip' and use engine braking by down-shifting and you'll see those low consumption figures and your brake poads will last longer! Call yourself a Scotsman. Yorkshiremen are far more fiscally savvy!!!
The clunk is probably the torque converter unlocking.
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Conan (the Librarian) Watch it if you dare Currently, 2000 S8, Merlin Purple, Leather Pack 1, Winter Pack 1, SPAX adjustable suspension, AP Racing 6 pot front caliper, 385mm fully floating disks, EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, Black Diamond grooved rear disks and predetor pads, D2 Doctors Brake Block. 1997 4.2 A8SQ - the Projekt. 12 years and ongoing! 1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard 2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion. 2005 C5 Allroad 2.5TDi FE - Grey - Workhorse. 2015 Q3QS SLine - Daytona Grey. Lots of extras! Long Haired Admirals cutter. Previously 2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex 1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure. 1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex. 2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on. 1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8. And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light. |
#3
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I always avoid freewheeling or using tip for engine braking as it doesn't seem good for our already weak boxes.
However this is only my second auto so I'm not that familiar with the do's and donts.
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'02 S8 - Ebony Black Pearl, 'Swing' Grey Leather/Alcantara, PDC, Xenon Plus, Bose, Phone Prep, Navigation Plus, TV, auto dipping interior and exterior mirrors, UV/Solar Tint Glass, Ski Hatch, Extended leather pack 1, Rear Sun Blinds, Memory Driver & Passenger Seat, Heated Front Screen, Heated Rear Seats. |
#4
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i thought free wheeling in autos was a no no......like towing them for any distance is too?
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#5
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yorkshiremen tight ? where do you get that idea mike
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Audi S8 Phantom Black |
#6
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Maybe when you stayed up the other night
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2010 Jag XF 3.0D Portfolio S I know.. I know.. |
#7
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You shouldn't ever let your auto' car run in Neutral. At this point the engine's speed drops to idle and the internal oil pressure in the 'box is minimal so wear can be dramatically accelarated!
Using 'tip to slow is, in my opinion, good and I use this in autos. It keeps oil pressure high and when the engine is in over-run mode (i.e no throttle and slowing down) it turn the injectors off entirely and so consumes no fuel, whereas at idle the engine is actually consuming fuel, not much but more than nothing! |
#8
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Buy my kids will beat either - they're half Yorkshire and half Scottish!
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#9
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Well, thanks for the hints and tips re coasting. Mebbes I'd better stop doing it.
About the clunk, though?? |
#10
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In general I was always told that brake pads were much cheaper than a transmission chain, so "engine to go and brakes to slow"
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D2 FL Q 2.8 V6 2002 Taxi(?) spec - no heated seats headlight washers etc. D2 PF Q 2.5 tdi LHD rear blinds and heated rear seats, Bose, 5 speed Tip, Servotronic, Pioneer AVIC 333,333 km Murdered on a P&O ferry 2012. Cat3 write off |
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