Brake ID ???

[ulfilias]

Hi There,

Now my car sticker says :

1ZL disc brakes 323x30mm 17" Front Brembo

I popped the wheel off at a local garge as the tyre valve had corroded and i'd atempted to add air and done the reverse....Needed a new valve which is rubber so i've lost the presure warning....though i think it had been coded out already as i recall seeing something on an audi invoice and wondering what it meant...i also have another wheel with a rubber valve.

Anyway brakes....i'm looking at replaceing discs and pads at some point in the near future

These look interesting, being an ok price and grooved and drilled so potential better performance without changing the system

However with the wheel off i grabbed a tape and they measured 350ish mm top to bottom...though the hub does say 28mm ???

I took a couple of pics seeing as i had the phone to hand




Any comments ???

Ta,
Lee

[Conan_the_Librarian]

By my reckoning you have a 2000 S8 so you should have these brakes:


With 17" wheels and Brembo callipers, 345mm is the correct size. If they are 28mm thick then they are 2mm below new. Maybe time to replace?????

As for drilled and grooved disks, well I'm not a fan unless leass the holes are cast Porche style. Drilled disks that get hot tend to crack before they wear out. OK if your a race car but not economic if you are not. A good set of grooved disks with a good set of pads will do all you need. There are fans of EBC disks and Red or yellow stuff pads on here. Black Diamond predetor Disks and pads have their advocates. I am a Ferodo fan with a set of DS2500 on the front. Expensive but they work and continue to work when your playing! They are also matched to a set of AP racing grooved disks.

You pays your money etc etc..............

[ulfilias]

Hi There,

I did not get a chance to put some vernias on the discs, just they are stamped with 28mm as per the pics.

Sounds like drilled are a bad plan. Don't want cracking thankyouverymuch. I'm looking for good road use basicaly. I'm a quick driver but like not to use the brakes at all if posible...though tight corners can be fun.

What are the ds2500's ???

I'm not trying to do the brakes on the cheap, however i feel that the audi stock ones are expensive and somewhat dated....ie grooved/drilled technology is now more affordable than 9yrs ago when my car was made.

I've read bits about EBC squealing....less dust is always a bonus too.

cya,
Lee

[Conan_the_Librarian]

EBC and squealing do appear regularily but Botang uses them and has good things to say.

As for the 28mm thickness I can't find an Audi part number with 28mm. They are all 30mm for the front so I'm thinking after-market saving on 2mm of iron!
From the picture there seems quite a ridge there. I would shove a vernier across it to see how much metal you have got!

the DS2500 are here

[ulfilias]

Hi There,

I've just ordered a full set of discs and pad for my S8 - Went the EBC route as they apear good value and claim a very high specification. Using the Red Stuff ceramic pads as its all road use (if fast) and i wanted quiet braking.

The discs are plain vented on the back as they don't seem to do anything that funky there. However went for the ultimax slotted on the fronts. They are claimed to be the quiet ones again, unlike the turbo ones which are noisy.


Front Discs USR1427
Rear Discs D890

Front pads DP31327C
Rear Pads DP3680C

Hunting arround, the prices on the net seemed to be 430-410, ebay 380-370, however after talking to one of the ebay dealers, bradscott who are PREMIER MOTOR FACTORS in the west midlands, the lot delivered £330 !

I'll let you know how i get on with things

Lee

[ulfilias]

Hi There,

Popped the first wheel off yesterday. Found you could get the pads out without removing the carriage, but seeing as i was doing the discs too, i needed to. One hex bolt was easy. The other had corroded threads, but came out and i'll replace it.

Alas there seemed some corrorsion under one of the guides - Reading and that the new pads wouldn't go in properly to the back and even the old one wouldn't sit completely correctly. I had to take the guide out. Alas the screw seemed a pain. I belive its an allen key, but it could have been a star drive. Either way it seemed an odd size and not budging. I took the calliper off (also braking a pipe as corrorsion meant it sheered rather than spun round) and ended up chiseling the screw out.

Audi parts this morning for pipe, bolt and screw. The first two no problems. Screw and guide seem not to have a part no. and the machines suggestion was a new calliper - *HA*

Have left the screw with the guy to see if one of the techs have one as even he thought it was silly !

cya,
Lee

[PsYcHe]

Had fun with my fronts too. Ended up taking them to the garage down the road to fit as I couldn't get enough clearance to unto the torx bolts.

If all else fails, I'm sure a8parts will have a spare

[ulfilias]

Hi There,

The screw & brake guide seems to be missing a part no. Audi huntingdon have rung audi UK with no luck. There is now a call in with Germany !!!

Its an M6 thread, dome headed allen key bolt. My local machine shop had a spare stainless steel one. A tad long, but a hack saw and then fettling on a grinding wheel (to help lead in) sorted that one !

The pads still seemed tight, so i sanded the red paint off the Red Stuff ones and they move nicely now !

Alas it seems the brake pipe is the wrong one....*sigh*

4d0 611 722 b - Is not correct. Bonus points for the right one !

cya,
Lee

[ulfilias]

Hiya,

Its a H not a B....the 1ZL comment should have given it away !

Alas there isn't one in the country !

Lee

[Conan_the_Librarian]

Damn!missed a chance to be a smart arse!

The pipe could be replaced with a DIY manufactured one if you still have the end fittings. All you need is a length of brake pipe and a flaring nut kit.