Boot lock problem - Page 4

IT · #31 29th September 2012, 04:35 PM

The AV adapters for the TV Tuners come with 2 inputs - Thats 6 phonos, for 2 of Composite video and 2 of Left and Right Audio.

You have only 1 video feed connected, with 5 dangling.... nothing to worry about, but personally as they are plugs not sockets, I'd PVC tape the ends to make sure they dont contact something, or each other

The_Laird · #32 29th September 2012, 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PsYcHe

Do you get any suction on the pipe when you activate the locking?

I don't think so. The actuator works fine if you blow/suck into it manually, but not when connected to the pipe - so I assume there's no suction from the pipe.

If you suck/blow down the green pipes, then the doors lock/unlock, so is there a manifold somewhere where the pipes for the fuel flap, boot lock, etc come from?

PsYcHe · #33 29th September 2012, 04:59 PM

Sounds very much like the boot lock has been bypassed or sealed off from the rest of the system them... But then I'd have thought that would have been needed seeing as there was no actual lock.

Architex_mA8tey · #34 29th September 2012, 05:13 PM

Wouldn't it be easier if I texted or called James to ask what he did when he did the lock?

The_Laird · #35 30th September 2012, 06:19 AM

That would be great - thanks Neil. I did send a PM with a link to this thread, but got no response, so the personal touch might help.

sloss · #36 30th September 2012, 08:46 AM

Jim,

My D2 had noipped the pipe where is comes out the bootlid back into the car. Not easy to see but a wee repair there fixed mine

Stew,

Architex_mA8tey · #37 30th September 2012, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The_Laird

That would be great - thanks Neil. I did send a PM with a link to this thread, but got no response, so the personal touch might help.

done

thinking about it he would have had to have clamped off the boot lock air pipe to make sure the others still worked when he did the camera/boot lock mod

Mkoneman · #38 30th September 2012, 09:51 AM

Wow been a sometime since i have been on here, Now for the life of me I cant remember what I did. But going by the pictures id say that I disconnected the vacuum supply to the boot lock when i removed it (cable tied like that so it didn't cause a c/l leak but it was reversible if needed) i'm sure there was a tube that would go to the boot lock from there BUT i cant remember if I removed this pipe and used that path to route the vision cable to the camera or if it is still there but tucked out the way

The_Laird · #39 30th September 2012, 10:45 AM

Thanks James. I'll have another route around next weekend.

Not sure if anyone knows, but should there be two pipes/tubes to the boot lock actuator? The reason I ask is that the one that is there, is the one that goes all the way to the boot and disappears into the wiring loom. The blanked/tied off one is another pipe/tube. There are, indeed, two attachment points on the actuator as in the attached photo.

In the mean time, I've been going ahead with the mods to the nearside light unit to make it accept the camera in the body of the 'fake' boot lock.

The camera itself came out relatively easily (see pics) and, as you'd expect, James had made a lovely job of the initial fitting.

Then I had to cut the hole in the nearside light. This was actually easier than I expected and one of those multi-sized round saw attachements for a drill was just the right size. And I also had to cut away the 'blanking piece' at the back of the light unit.

Then I took all the guts out of the spare lock barrell (thanks A8 Parts), broke off the long centre inner to the chrome fitting and checked that the camera would fit. It does, perfectly.

All I need to do now is to enlarge the whole in the chrome bit - but I don't have a tool for that! Anyone know of a good Glasgow engineering shop that might do this?

ainarssems · #40 30th September 2012, 10:54 AM

Quote:

The actuator works fine if you blow/suck (don't you mucky lot start again!) but nothing happens when the central locking is activated. BTW, there are no electrical connections here and just one pipe connection.

Indeed there are no electrical connections, I just assumed they are there as I have never had anything to do with central locking on D2, only older Audis. This would meen that pump both sucks and blows, on older cars it was only sucking and electrical valve at the actuator were switching at which side to suck. I just assumed that D2 is the same.