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  #1  
Old 16th July 2018, 11:03 AM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Default What's in the workshop? Its manual swap time!

As most of you know, I've been plotting a manual swap for some time. All the original manual parts are NLA and so almost everything needs to be fabricated, and importantly, repeatable. I've already got a list of five swaps to do, and I expect there will be more.

Please note: Ian has graciously made this forum section 'members only' while the swap is in prototype form. Please don't share any pics of this outside the forum community for now as this thread will contain a lot of my IP which I plan to market as a conversion service (not DIY!) once it's complete

Willing victim for the prototype is Bert's 2002 S8 'Fritz'. This has spent more time at my workshop in the last 12 months than at Bert's due to the perpetrator of the last gearbox service leaving the o-ring off the oil filter That trashed the torque converter as it was sucking air on bends, and in turn trashed the oil pump due to cavitation. A rebuilt gearbox killed by a £3 o-ring

I tried the box from my Avus FE - that was also fubar, so Fritz got pushed out the back of the workshop to hibernate while I developed the manual swap.

In the meantime, I picked up the black FE in Paignton to donate its interior, and since the Practical Classics shoot was looming, threw the gearbox from that in Fritz as a long shot. It worked, but only enough to get to the shoot. It wasn't really driveable every day, so Fritz went back in to hibernation back at Bert's home.

Fast forward to last Friday - I've got the prototype swap parts 95% complete with just a few little bits to finish off. This is my last 'free' week before the Germany meet so we decided to throw caution to the wind and just go for it Its a long shot tbh, but where's the fun in being sensible? Bert brought Fritz over yesterday and we discussed plans while he cooled down.

Brace yourself. This won't hurt a bit



A symbolic start:



Stripped the console out before I put him on the lift



Started on the drivetrain removal:







Because I need to get both inside and under the car for this job, I'll need to roll the car off the lift to open the doors. Thats a tad tricky when there's no front subframe, as I discovered with Vera's impromptu clutch hose replacement. On that basis, I decided to remove the engine and gearbox and leave the subframe in place. This was a mistake It would have been far easier to take the engine out the usual way and just put the subframe back on afterwards. Never mind!

So, this is where I got to by bedtime last night (6 hours elapsed, the engine would normally be out in 4-5)





Just the starter junction box, propshaft and engine mounts to remove tonight and the drivetrain will come out.

This is the pile of tools required to get this far:



Meet the world's worst moth. This guy was flying around the lights since I left the roller door open in the dark. Somehow he managed to crash-land upside down on the floor and couldn't right himself. I gave him some paper towel to grab hold of and he figured it out in the end.



More tonight
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Last edited by MikkiJayne; 16th July 2018 at 11:12 AM.
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  #2  
Old 16th July 2018, 11:23 AM
Davey Blueeyes Davey Blueeyes is offline
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Oh man alive, I can't wait to see this!!

*sits down with popcorn
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  #3  
Old 16th July 2018, 11:24 AM
gninnam gninnam is offline
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Phew
Very best of luck with this one
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  #4  
Old 16th July 2018, 11:39 AM
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RICKY D RICKY D is offline
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This is gonna be a good one.

Can’t wait for the updates MJ
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  #5  
Old 16th July 2018, 01:48 PM
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Architex_mA8tey Architex_mA8tey is offline
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Ooh! *grabs a coffeee and settles down to watch*

I bet Burt is more excited than an excited thing at an excited things party!
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  #6  
Old 16th July 2018, 11:23 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Still dismantling...

There are two ways to take the engine out of the D2. This is the wrong way.



Its actually pretty easy to pull it out of the hole. Its just a total PITA getting everything off so it will actually come out - exhausts from the manifolds, driveshafts, both gearbox mounts.



I know for next time. Take it out the bottom and just put the subframe back on afterwards



Not being on the subframe also makes it harder to mount on the separating jig, since all the bits and bobs have to be taken off with it hanging on the crane.



Removing the wiring harness is much easier with it sitting on the subframe too.



Got to remove the torque converter bolts before the engine can be fully attached to the separating jig.



Bolt on the last jig bracket



Aaand separate:





Don't need this damn thing any more



On to the rest of the drivetrain. The CV joints on the rear diff were properly rusted in place. These were not fun to remove!





Heat shields and braces off to get to the prop





Rear diff out. This is being replaced with one which matches the gearbox we're using. If one was lucky enough to find a genuine S8 manual gearbox the S8 rear diff would stay.



The prop is also replaced with a longer one. This one will be sent off to be modified for the next swap.



Drivetrain all out:



11 hours.
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  #7  
Old 16th July 2018, 11:38 PM
tintin tintin is offline
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I think I'm from a different species from you - and that's meant as a compliment, btw....
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Old 17th July 2018, 11:31 AM
Davey Blueeyes Davey Blueeyes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tintin View Post
I think I'm from a different species from you - and that's meant as a compliment, btw....
I was just thinking the same myself. Just amazing.
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  #9  
Old 17th July 2018, 12:22 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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A lunchtime rear bumper easter egg...



The rear bumper had to come off to replace a broken parking sensor. The passenger side bolt turned 90° and seized so I unbolted the bumper mount and took it off complete





Bumper bolts are easy enough to get, whereas the aluminium bracket it bolts in to is not, so sacrifice the bolt to save the bracket. Off with it's head!



Then remove the two torx screws holding the bracket to the bumper



Leaving this:



Mount in the vice and weld a nut on to the stump of the bolt so it can be turned



and screw it in to the bracket. Trying to force it out would destroy the thread in the bracket...



...and this is why. The exposed threads have corroded and galled the aluminium when the bolt was turned. Forcing it out of the bracket at this point would pull the gall through the bracket and tear the thread out with it rendering it kaput.



Chop the damaged thread off the bolt



and now it unscrews easily and leaves the bracket intact



Mounted back on the bumper



I have spare bolts for when it goes back on
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  #10  
Old 17th July 2018, 09:21 PM
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tonupkid tonupkid is offline
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D2 Therapy. For both car and viewer.
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