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D2 - Interior Electrics Airbags, Sensors, climate modules, instrument clusters, switches etc

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Old 29th September 2023, 01:37 PM
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Default Key remote not working

Just got back from 2 months away with the S8 safely garaged in the dry and on trickle charger. However, when i came to unlock it, neither remote key works. The clock/radio etc have all kept perfect time so there is no sign of the car battery having run down at any time. Strangely the DIS now has random pixels over the trip/odometer display .

Car behaved perfectly on post lay-up run so im a bit stumped as to why both keys appear to have dis-associated themselves from the car
Any clues?
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Old 29th September 2023, 02:10 PM
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In addition, i should have said that i have tested and changed the key fob batteries which were all fine. Further investigation has, however, revealed that there is a faint "click-clack" noise coming from the rear, left wing which is around the area where, i believe, the central unlocking pump is....
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Old 29th September 2023, 02:12 PM
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Does the car start? are you able to scan it? Does central locking work with the driver side door button
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Old 29th September 2023, 02:31 PM
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Yes, it starts fine and, as i said, ran perfectly on a test run. And no, central locking doesnt work from the driver side door button. Im pretty sure the issue lies with the central locking pump as i can hear a faint noise from its location when using the remote fobs. But whatever its doing is not enough to lock/unlock the doors.
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Old 29th September 2023, 10:42 PM
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Ok in that case I would scan the car just as a precaution to see any obvious codes, and if that brings no result I would start looking for an air leak starting with the pump itself.
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Old 1st October 2023, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
Ok in that case I would scan the car just as a precaution to see any obvious codes, and if that brings no result I would start looking for an air leak starting with the pump itself.
Thats my plan for Sunday
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Old 1st October 2023, 03:22 PM
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Removed the central locking pump this pm after testing it in situ with the rubber insulation off. It makes peculiar whirring noises (which dont sound right) but to no effect. Part number on the removed item is 8L0 862 257 P which appears to be a generic item which fits a range of Audis. Guess i'll look to get a replacement....
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Old 28th October 2023, 10:32 AM
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Having got a replacement pump, the same thing occurs - whirring and clicking but no unlocking action. With the air lines removed there was no evidence of vacuum/pressure. So i put the original CLP back in and same result occurs except that after a few tries, the pump didnt respond at all to the key fob. Also, window functionality was lost at the same time which, according to the wiring diagram, runs off the same module contained in the CLP body. An interesting (perhaps significant?) issue is that the window control wiring uses the same 12pin connector on the CLP body which takes a feed from an antenna which (i am assuming) is for the fob signal. All relevant fuses have been checked.
I am stumped so, any ideas?
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Old 29th October 2023, 08:06 AM
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After considering this overnight I'm beginning to think that the problem lies with the 12 pin connector (the middle of 3 which connect to the central locking pump (CLP) unit) as the connections into this:
1. Take a screened feed from an antenna (which i assume is for the fob signal) which now no longer seems to activate any response from the CLP unit when using either of 2 CLP units with matched key fobs.
2. Control the windows (which no longer work by any means i.e door switches) as part of the closure function on long press of the key fob.
3. Control the interior/puddle lights (which no longer function) as part of the opening and locking function.
4. Substituting a known working CLP unit with matched fob makes no difference.

The logic, it seems to me, points towards the connector. But why would this fail when the car was garaged for 8 weeks on occasional battery charge? Could it be anything else?
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Old 1st November 2023, 03:23 PM
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After a certain amount of head-scratching, pouring over the wiring diagram and discussion with MikkiJane, I tested the "Hot-On Always" supply to the CLP which comes into Pin 8 on the 10pin Black connector. This was at 3.8V. Strange but the low voltage would explain the desultory and, latterly, no action by the CLP. At the fuse panel it was 12V so obviously something is wrong along the harness. So I rigged a fused jury rig direct from the battery and, lo and behold, the pump burst into life when prompted by the fob! Connected the air lines and full remote unlocking was restored and interior lights came on as they should.

So, there would appear to be poor connection somewhere along the harness which just appeared whilst the car was laid up for 7 weeks in a nice dry garage! (along with the DIS pixels which appear to have gone walkabout )

Tomorrows job is the get some appropriate wire, connectors and fuse holder and put in a proper fused supply from the battery bypassing the harness supply.
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