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D2 - Engine Bay Everything under the bonnet

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  #11  
Old 23rd February 2012, 04:38 PM
Conan_the_Librarian's Avatar
Conan_the_Librarian Conan_the_Librarian is offline
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9 x 1ltr = £46.80. Cheaper than ebay from and audi main dealer.
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Conan (the Librarian)

Watch it if you dare

Currently,
2000 S8, Merlin Purple, Leather Pack 1, Winter Pack 1, SPAX adjustable suspension, AP Racing 6 pot front caliper, 385mm fully floating disks, EBC Yellow Stuff Pads, Black Diamond grooved rear disks and predetor pads, D2 Doctors Brake Block.
1997 4.2 A8SQ - the Projekt. 12 years and ongoing!
1997 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. Restoration sat waiting; saved from the Scrapyard
2003 C5 Allroad 4.2Q - Cobolt Blue. Towing car. Laid up awaiting manual conversion.
2005 C5 Allroad 2.5TDi FE - Grey - Workhorse.
2015 Q3QS SLine - Daytona Grey. Lots of extras! Long Haired Admirals cutter.

Previously
2003 C5 A6 1.9TDI FWD - Loaner from D2 Doctor Lifex
1997 S8 - Ming Blue. Loaned out and written off. I loved that car. My first engine swap after cambelt failure.
1996 4.2 A8SQ - Ming Blue. 178k on a cambelt! Trader's 8. Delivered to A8Parts at Lifex.
2003 2.8 A8SQ - powder blueish. Fill in for a while. Sold on.
1998 1.8T A4 Avant FWD. Ming Blue (there's a theme here), PEX for the 97 S8.
And a list of non VAG going back 40 years before I saw the light.
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  #12  
Old 12th March 2012, 02:22 AM
adjuster adjuster is offline
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In my last two A8's, they both responded well to 5 or 0 weight oils. (Multigrade, 5-40 or 0-30 synthetic.)

On the Supra sites I used to hang at for years, one of the oil geeks claimed the 0-30 German Castrol was the best out there, tried it in my 2004 A8L, and it made start up quiet, when it was a noisy ticking deal prior to that.

The 0 weight is great when it's cold too, and the 30 when hot is all you need on this engine, as tight as it's put together. That said, I'm running 5-40 in my current 2001 S8, and it's working fine too, but next time around, will more likely put the German Castrol 0-30 in there. (It tests out at more like a 0-40, but it's not marked that way.)

In my motorcycles, I've run the Shell Rotella T6 synthetic, and it's worked great, 5-40 rated. Keeps the bike engine nice and smooth, and shifting easy too, as it shares the same oil. (Semi truck oil is good stuff, I'm tempted to run it in the S8, as it should clean up the crud from the last owner, and diesel rated oils all have extra additives for soot/dirt control, as well as shear resistance to breakdown of the oil carbon chains.)

I normally only change my oil twice a year, and run a good synthetic, but on this "new" S8 I just bought, I'm going to run a few 3000 mile changes, might even use some "SeaFoam" prior to the oil change to clean out the crud, and then settle into a routine of using very good oil, and change it twice a year regardless of miles. (Theory being if you drive enough, the oil cleans out the moisture that really is the problem in most oils/engines while synthetic oils don't break down, they can lose their additive package, and changing them every 6 months takes care of that.)
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  #13  
Old 11th April 2012, 10:44 PM
Simon Wallwork Simon Wallwork is offline
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A friend did the oil change on my FL S8 a few months ago.

He put Comma oil in it. I cringed inwardly but it's still in there and the car is running nicely.

I'll get the pukka stuff for her myself, next time.
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