XENONs replacement

[centurion]

hi guys,

I purchased some Xenarc's cool blue @ 5500K to replace stock xenon's on the car as one had faded ever so slightly with yellow-ish tone to it.

I tried the other day to come close to it but without much luck as it is very compact out there and due to lack of space didn't want to 'mess about' . Any suggestions on How to [or should I best consult my local mechanic to complete the job]?


in addition, I replaced stock 501's with LED variant and was planning to replace P21W's with LED and code them for LED DRL. Now, question I have is related to output heat from LED's - e.g. longer term would one experience the 'melting' effect on connectors/housing in the light due to higher operating temp. and nature of LED's?

Look fwd to your feedback.

[Conquistador]

Driver's side or passenger side? It's a pain in the @rse to change either in fact! It helps if you have small hands and driver's side you'll need to remove the airbox if I remember. Passenger side is even a lot more effort.

I think I ended up jacking both sides up, getting some axle stands underneath and peeling the wheelarch liners away.

[tc4332]

By 501s I believe that you mean the front side light bulbs.
I suggest that you do not use any of the so called "Error Free Canbus LEDs" that are available via ebay. I had a few problems due to the parallel loading resistor producing a lot of heat. The series resistors that drop the 12 volts to that needed for the actual led do not become hot because they pass a very low current.
The best way IMHO is to use the LEDs and parallel loom that Trups supplies. This means that the old 501 bulb is still connected and stops any faults being recorded. OK you are using electricity unnecessarally and the bulb is lighting up empty space behind the headlight reflector but better that than the frightening experiences that I had.
One of the forum members made up his own looms, but the price Trups charges makes it much easier.
Trups email is sales@emtuning.co.uk
Be warned that if you mention my name he will charge double

[kele]

This job is a pain. I have done four over the years. The most recent being yesterday. I prefer to remove the whole air box/s, take the wheel off and then remove the inner wheel arch. Gives most access and visibility. And disconnect the battery. About an hour or so per bulb....

[snapdragon]

For the drivers' side on my 3.0TDi, I just removed the airbox and removed the two torx bolts holding the bottom of the lamp and the two smaller ones on top to enable the lamp to slide forward a bit. A mirror on a stick tool helps see the bulb is aligned when refitting.

On the passengers' side, you need to remove the wheel arch liner and maybe the PAS reservoir, but I didn't bother.

[tc4332]

Driver's side lift out the airbox.
Nearside undo the power steering reservoir and move it towards the engine. (One bolt and a grommet but be careful that you don't drop the grommet)
Neither give a lot of room but it is possible.
If you are really brave undoing the top screws on the headlight assembly will allow a bit more space.

[centurion]

Originally Posted by tc4332

By 501s I believe that you mean the front side light bulbs.
I suggest that you do not use any of the so called "Error Free Canbus LEDs" that are available via ebay. I had a few problems due to the parallel loading resistor producing a lot of heat. The series resistors that drop the 12 volts to that needed for the actual led do not become hot because they pass a very low current.
The best way IMHO is to use the LEDs and parallel loom that Trups supplies. This means that the old 501 bulb is still connected and stops any faults being recorded. OK you are using electricity unnecessarally and the bulb is lighting up empty space behind the headlight reflector but better that than the frightening experiences that I had.
One of the forum members made up his own looms, but the price Trups charges makes it much easier.
Trups email is sales@emtuning.co.uk
Be warned that if you mention my name he will charge double

sorry to hear that... What problems did you have on yours?

I have exactly those [501 error free led's in] and do regularly get sidelight bulb error when lights are on... i'm okay with that how however was wondering if It will cause any issues longer term?

[centurion]

I did remove the airbox[es] on 4.2 TDI but not much to manouvre around IMBH... guess for that amount of effort [albeit morally satisfying when you DIY it] i'll take it to the local garage for fit out.

one thing I do find very hard is why [and several times WHY] are they are making it so damn difficult to change the light bulbs on the car?? that and a tyre should be a basic thing every driver should and/or must know How to.

[tc4332]

I had a scare when one of my boot lamp LEDs overheated and melted the lampholder and lens assembly. The heat also conducted back along the wires and damaged the insulation. This created the most obnoxious smell that took weeks to get rid of.
We thought the car was about to go up in flames
I did some bench experiments with a normal incandescent 501 and various LED samples. I found that after ten minutes of them being lit I could hold the normal 501 (hot but not burning me), but all the "Error Free" ones were impossible to hold due to the heat generated. I was able to hold the LEDs supplied by Trups.
Another thing about the Trups LEDs is that apart from the 501 replacement types they are designed to fit in the various lamps throughout the car. That is boot, puddle, door open red edge warning, footwell and vanity mirror lights.

[centurion]

Originally Posted by tc4332

I had a scare when one of my boot lamp LEDs overheated and melted the lampholder and lens assembly. The heat also conducted back along the wires and damaged the insulation. This created the most obnoxious smell that took weeks to get rid of.
We thought the car was about to go up in flames
I did some bench experiments with a normal incandescent 501 and various LED samples. I found that after ten minutes of them being lit I could hold the normal 501 (hot but not burning me), but all the "Error Free" ones were impossible to hold due to the heat generated. I was able to hold the LEDs supplied by Trups.
Another thing about the Trups LEDs is that apart from the 501 replacement types they are designed to fit in the various lamps throughout the car. That is boot, puddle, door open red edge warning, footwell and vanity mirror lights.

thanks for your feedback... very educational and something to take on onboard when one tries to 'cut corners'.

I did ping EM Tuning earlier and hope to acquire replacements soon... results [with pictures] to follow .

Thanks again...