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D2 - Transmission Gearboxes, diffs, drive shafts.

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  #101  
Old 20th November 2016, 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by HPsauce View Post
Thinking back to that comment, now you've had yours out and found only wear (similar to mine?) maybe this needs to be viewed as a "consumable" replaced maybe on a similar cycle to the cam belt?

Looking at mine carefully I could see a bit of "clumping" of the lubricant/grease so do wonder if it's just a combination of wear, debris etc. making it less reliable as it ages. The sliding contact design doesn't really seem to be engineered for tens of thousands of operations, after all it moves presumably every time there's a gear change, maybe with changes in torque converter slip as well?
I think you might be right in that it seems to be a known failure item at around 100k. Do we have any data collected on when these have failed on forum members cars? If none, then perhaps we could ask. For info my mileage was at 109,700.
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  #102  
Old 20th November 2016, 12:55 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Originally Posted by HPsauce View Post
So how, if at all, is it involved if I change gear with the thumb buttons on my steering wheel?
Its not really. As long as the TCU detects D or S it'll allow program override by the buttons. Same as shifting with the lever in D - the F125 doesn't actually move at all when you push the shifter over in to +-. Thats all done in software.

Mine is at 114K.
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  #103  
Old 20th November 2016, 01:12 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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I'm at 97,000 miles but it's been misbehaving for ages.
That said, I do happen to know that a previous long-term owner did a lot of short journeys.
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2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #104  
Old 20th November 2016, 01:27 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
It does - its directly attached to the gear linkage.
Knowing little or nothing about how these gearboxes work and are controlled I'm nonetheless a bit surprised by that.
I had assumed it was taking physical information about the state of the gearbox and relaying that electrically to the TCU.

If it's just the physical position of the gear selector lever, why not detect that in the cabin? Or is it to eliminate the possibility of a loose/worn mechanical link (cable?) and get the information "from the horses mouth" so to speak, i.e. as close to the gearbox as possible.

Or is there a belt and braces approach, with sensors on the lever as well? There obviously are for the tiptronic elements.
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #105  
Old 20th November 2016, 02:50 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPsauce View Post
Knowing little or nothing about how these gearboxes work and are controlled I'm nonetheless a bit surprised by that.
I had assumed it was taking physical information about the state of the gearbox and relaying that electrically to the TCU.

If it's just the physical position of the gear selector lever, why not detect that in the cabin? Or is it to eliminate the possibility of a loose/worn mechanical link (cable?) and get the information "from the horses mouth" so to speak, i.e. as close to the gearbox as possible.

Or is there a belt and braces approach, with sensors on the lever as well? There obviously are for the tiptronic elements.
The tiptronic switches are on the gear selector, but the F125 does everything else. I can't see any reason why it couldn't be in the selector tbh.

The F125 tells the TCU which gear is selected, and the shift lever also has mechanical functions inside such as engaging the parking lock and interacting with the valve block. The cause of PRNDS in this case is the TCU not getting sensible signals from the F125, rather than any feedback from gubbins inside the gearbox (like the speed sensors etc).
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  #106  
Old 20th November 2016, 04:02 PM
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Adrian E Adrian E is offline
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Mine was done at about 42k and 9 years old!

I didn't leave mine faulty for long and just replaced it rather than attempting to fix it
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  #107  
Old 20th November 2016, 07:07 PM
HPsauce HPsauce is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikkiJayne View Post
The switch is reassembled now
How did you fix it back together, riveted again or small bolts/nuts?
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2003 D2 FL S8. Irish Green Pearl/Beige. Solar sunroof, auto-dim mirrors, electric rear seat functions, ski hatch retrofit; extended leather. Aftermarket DVB-T, reversing camera and full XCarlink (Bluetooth etc.).
2016 Volvo V40 T5 Cross Country (4WD) with ALL the toys including adaptive cruise etc. etc. Osmium Grey with Blonde/Charcoal leather interior. Polestar performance "optimisation". (A much rarer model than a D2 S8 by the way!) Oh, and a brand new engine at just under 30,000 miles on the factory one!
Finally: gone, but not forgotten.....
1998 D2 PF S8. AgateGrey/Platinum. Every option (I think) except electric rear seats, tiptronic steering wheel, ski hatch, towbar & dimming door mirrors.
e.g. Cruise control, NavPlus/TV, Bose, GSM, Xenons, Solar roof, Parking sensors, Alcantara/leather everywhere of course. (internal dimming mirror added later)
1998 (very early) Ford Focus 1.8 Zetec; ABS/TCS, Heated screen/mirrors, Aircon, Auto-dim mirror, Leather, Trip computer, Cruise control, OEM Ford SatNav with CD changer.
And before that a lot of Rover 800s, a few oddities, a lovely Triumph Dolomite 1850HL with Overdrive and way back in my schooldays an Austin Seven aka Mini 850!
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  #108  
Old 20th November 2016, 09:05 PM
MikkiJayne MikkiJayne is offline
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I had some M4 button head screws and nylocs which were just the right size
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  #109  
Old 22nd November 2016, 02:28 PM
oldnick oldnick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David's8 View Post
I think you might be right in that it seems to be a known failure item at around 100k. Do we have any data collected on when these have failed on forum members cars? If none, then perhaps we could ask. For info my mileage was at 109,700.
same mileage for me ; have got the 8 pin not the 9 pin; only done a few thousand since cleaning up the connector but not a trace of a problem since

my current theory is that there is a combination of problems that causes the clean up to fix the problem ie a poor contact on the connector reduces the signal strength to the internal contacts which , being worn , need the stronger signal
had already planned the bolt + nylock reseal as per MJ if it comes to it later
no lift available but still have my motorhome ramps so will try running the front up on that then blocking the side

Last edited by oldnick; 22nd November 2016 at 02:32 PM.
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  #110  
Old 22nd November 2016, 02:55 PM
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David's8 David's8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldnick View Post
same mileage for me ; have got the 8 pin not the 9 pin; only done a few thousand since cleaning up the connector but not a trace of a problem since

my current theory is that there is a combination of problems that causes the clean up to fix the problem ie a poor contact on the connector reduces the signal strength to the internal contacts which , being worn , need the stronger signal
had already planned the bolt + nylock reseal as per MJ if it comes to it later
no lift available but still have my motorhome ramps so will try running the front up on that then blocking the side
You may well be right there about poor connections.
I hope that the ramp option gives you enough room. If there is any degree of extra force needed for stuck bolts/exhaust movement then you may need a lift. MJ is just across the channel and has a queue of '8s waiting!
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