Emergency help required

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by ainarssems

If the DIS is showing that boot is open maybe there is a piece of luggage stuck between boot and body putting too much pressure on the lock so that it does not unlock or open.

Or something broken/jammed in the mechanism. Either way a really good push/slam on the boot may "force the issue".

[notorious]

No luck yet. No one is working here tomorrow (Sunday). Will try to call ADAC 1st thing in the morning.

I'm trying all possible combinations to try to open boot lid as you guys suggested.

Does anyone know if I remove the rear bumper will I get access to two screws/bolts/nuts that hold the part of the latch mechanism that is permanently attached to chassis? Kind of П-shape bracket? Can someone post a ETKA/ELSA picture here or a photograph of the area looking from below the car with rear bumper removed?

Cheers

[moltuae]

What happens when you try to use the key to open the boot?

I found that the lock on my boot wouldn't open with the key a while ago. Couldn't even get the key all the way in. Turned out it was just gunked-up with dirt. I sprayed lots of lubricant into the lock, repeatedly pushing the key in and out, and eventually it freed up.

[MikkiJayne]

Originally Posted by notorious

Does anyone know if I remove the rear bumper will I get access to two screws/bolts/nuts that hold the part of the latch mechanism that is permanently attached to chassis? Kind of П-shape bracket? Can someone post a ETKA/ELSA picture here or a photograph of the area looking from below the car with rear bumper removed?

Cheers

Unfortunately not - it's held on from the inside by a couple of bolts in to captive nuts inside the box-section of the rear panel.

[paulrstaylor]

Originally Posted by moltuae

What happens when you try to use the key to open the boot?

I found that the lock on my boot wouldn't open with the key a while ago. Couldn't even get the key all the way in. Turned out it was just gunked-up with dirt. I sprayed lots of lubricant into the lock, repeatedly pushing the key in and out, and eventually it freed up.

This would be my approach also. Risky approach to get more leverage is to open the key half way, so it is L shaped (assuming flick key)....... Got me out of a similar issue once before, but did feel as though it could have just ended up with a broken key also!!!!

[snapdragon]

Good luck. Someone we know with a VW Phaeton (back when they were new) got to a hotel and the boot wouldn't open because the strap of an overnight back was trapped. The AA were called out and used two airbags that slid under the lower lip of the boot and blew it open. It didn't even damage it and worked normally afterwards.

[The_Laird]

Guys, he's got it sorted!

There was a solution on a Russian web site Which Se grey will post when he gets home. Basically, he removed the number plate a drilled a hole in a specific place which allowed him to insert a screwdriver to pull the rod on the lock mechanism and open the boot.

When we get the finer details, I think I'll drill that hole just in case!

[HPsauce]

Originally Posted by The_Laird

When we get the finer details, I think I'll drill that hole just in case!

Me too. I'll be taking all that stuff off and drilling a hole for the reversing camera cable so it makes sense to do that as well.

[notorious]

Solution: drill a hole behind the number plate to access tensioning rod that drives the latch.
In my situation the latch itself was fine.
It was the 'button' mechanism which failed to pull the rod to unlock the latch.

Drill a hole of at least 6mm in diameter in order to be able to put screwdriver through the hole.

Position of the hole:
- 92mm from the seam between plastic number plate surround and aluminium boot lid cover.
- 400 mm from the right hand side boot lid cover edge (the seam between the lenses).

Schematic drawing:


On picture below notice the black 'T', which is the intersection of two black maker lines after the exact measurement:


Now drill the hole. You will have to drill through the plastic number plate surround and trough the aluminium boot lid cover.
In that particular area there is only one sheet of aluminium, which is about 1mm thick.

Through the hole you will see vertical metal rod (it will actually look like two metal rods sitting together side by side).

Insert a screwdriver so that it will sit to the left of the vertical rod and push the rod rightwards.
The boot will open.


You can then paint edges of the hole and insert rubber cover.
Here is the area after proper repair. Larger hole in the plastic surround to provide finger access to tightly sitting rubber cover.


I used rubber cover that lives on the inside edge of the boot lid cover (can be ordered from A8 Parts ):


If it'll happen again life will be much easier

Here is how the area looks like from the inside.
Edges of hole are painted and hole is sealed by rubber cover.
The vertical 'double rod' is the one that you push with screwdriver rightwards.
I know this last picture makes little sense, but after you remove internal boot trim everything will become bleeding obvious.


Good luck! Any questions -- shout.

[Joe2.0E]

Great write up and very useful to know if you need it.
From a security point of view, would it be better removed from an open forum and offer to PM the info to any members on here that need it ?
Maybe theres no point if it is easily found on a russian website.