D2 remote battery replacement

[tintin]

Title says it all - how is this done? My 2nd remote seems to have a flat/dead battery, so I thought I'd ask on here before taking the remote into Stockport Audi.

[Adrian E]

Flick the key blade out, then look on the back of the key for a small slot. Put a flat bladed screwdriver in the slot and lift the plastic gently while pulling the top part of the key with the blade in it away from the bottom bit with the buttons. It should need very little force.

Once apart, split the 2 halves of the button section with finger pressure, and batteries exposed +++

[tintin]

Cheers Adrian +++

[HPsauce]

Ideally a flat thick blade and just twist in the slot to separate the two halves before splitting the battery compartment.
No need to reprogram anything, just replace the batteries.

[moltuae]

Or you can use a plastic spudger if you want to avoid marking the fob.

Usually a single battery in the later D2 fobs I think, a CR2032 (ie 20mm dia, 3.2mm thick).

CR2032 is a very common size that are also used for BIOS memory retention on computer motherboards, so most electronics/computer places stock them.


Kinda ironic Stephen, don't you think, that you own an EV yet it's your petrol-driven vehicle that's had all the battery issues lately :D

[tintin]

Kinda ironic Stephen, don't you think, that you own an EV yet it's your petrol-driven vehicle that's had all the battery issues lately :D

Very ironic - in fact both my ICE cars have had electrical problems, with my Fiat Coupé being the more persistently problematic - they're also both a lot older, which doesn't help. And it looks like the remote issue on the S8 is deeper than just the batteries being flat, as replacing those didn't fix the issue :(

[moltuae]

And it looks like the remote issue on the S8 is deeper than just the batteries being flat, as replacing those didn't fix the issue :(

How far did you get diagnosing it and are all fobs the same (assuming you have more than one)?

You could check that the fobs are transmitting *something* using an RF fob tester. I have a Gunson tester like this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Premium-Gunson-Tools-Key-Fob-Tester-/291072729912) that I bought years ago, but this Sealey one (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-VS921-Key-Fob-Tester/dp/B000ROAR9I/) is cheaper and looks a better tester.

It may be that your fobs have just been 'forgotten' for some reason; had that happen with mine once or twice.

Have you tried the fob reprogramming ceremony? It goes something like ... leave one key in the ignition then put another key in the door while standing on one leg and pressing unlock.


Failing that, assuming Craig the Keycutter is at the annual meet, you could ask him to program up some nice shiny new ones for you :)

[tintin]

All good diagnostic tips Mark, and although I don't have an RF test, my main remote works just fine, so there's clearly no problem at the vehicle end. I'll be passing Audi Stockport later, so may just pop in (in my Tesla, always goes down well...:tuttut: ) to see what they think.

[moltuae]

my main remote works just fine, so there's clearly no problem at the vehicle end.
If it's only your spare remote that's not working, it may just need to be re-added to the system. Have you at any time used it to lock the car with the engine running (main remote in the ignition)? I think that may be how I accidentally deprogrammed one or two of my spare remotes in the past. Re-adding them by following the usual reprogramming sequence has always worked for me.

[tintin]

If it's only your spare remote that's not working, it may just need to be re-added to the system. Have you at any time used it to lock the car with the engine running (main remote in the ignition)? I think that may be how I accidentally deprogrammed one or two of my spare remotes in the past. Re-adding them by following the usual reprogramming sequence has always worked for me.

Yes, I have! - Sherlock on this thread, not the mint D2 one ;). So now you know what question's coming next - what's the "usual reprogramming sequence"? :o

[moltuae]

Yes, I have! - Sherlock on this thread, not the mint D2 one ;). So now you know what question's coming next - what's the "usual reprogramming sequence"? :o


I was hoping you wouldn't ask. Whenever I've had to do it I just faffed around with it, following a number of conflicting instruction online until it worked! :D

Can't remember for certain what worked last time but I found this on my PC, saved to a text file, so it's probably what I've followed previously:
Key Fob Programming
VW/ Audi/ Seat/ Skoda

Remote Control Programming (1997 ON)
Procedure
1. Switch Ignition ON and leave key in the ignition.
2. Mechanically lock the vehicle using the Drivers door using a second key
3. Using the remote control press the Unlock button once, and the horn will sound once.
4. Wait 6 seconds and press the unlock button once to activate the coding procedure. The remote control will now be programmed.
Note: When performing programming on additional remotes the procedure is exactly the same, except you press the unlock button 2, 3 or 4 times for different remote.
For example: If programming 2 remotes press the unlock button twice with a 1 second interval between each press, repeat for 3 and 4 remotes.
5. Switch ignition OFF.
6. Remove key from ignition and check for operation.
7. The coding procedure can be repeated up to 4 times for additional remotes.
8. The ignition must be switched OFF between programming each remote control.

Remote Control Erasing (1997 ON)
Procedure
1. Switch ignition ON and leave key in the ignition.
2. Mechanically lock the vehicle using the Drivers door using a second key.
3. Press the remote control unlock button 5 times in 1-second intervals.
A short horn will sound.
4. Wait 6 seconds and press the unlock button once to activate memory erase.
5. Switch ignition OFF, all remotes are now tuned in..

If I remember correctly, the horn doesn't sound but the headlights flash (or was that one of my PF '8s?).

From memory, the way this guy does it is correct for our cars:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb0UdmAVmz4
(clearly explained in a proper northern accent too :) )

[tintin]

I was hoping you wouldn't ask. Whenever I've had to do it I just faffed around with it, following a number of conflicting instruction online until it worked! :D

Can't remember for certain what worked last time but I found this on my PC, saved to a text file, so it's probably what I've followed previously:


If I remember correctly, the horn doesn't sound but the headlights flash (or was that one of my PF '8s?).

From memory, the way this guy does it is correct for our cars:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lb0UdmAVmz4
(clearly explained in a proper northern accent too :) )

Thanks Mark, very helpful, I'll see if I can look at this tomorrow.

[The_Laird]

This is the first time that I’ve had need to replace the key fob battery. The spare one works fine, as did the everyday one yesterday, but the everyday one wouldn’t work today. So, which part of the key fob comes off - the part with the logo or the other part? The slot seems to be angled to lift the logo part, but it won’t budge!

[HPsauce]

Jim, you put a small flat screwdriver in the slot at right angles to the fob and twist to force the gap open - the two ends of the fob will slide apart from each other.
It can need a bit of force, it's a tight snap fit.

Basically the blade end is a short shell that encloses and pulls away from the buttons end. The buttons end can then be popped open to replace the battery.

The blade end is held together by screw under the logo, but you don't need to undo that to change battery, it's in the other half.
Only time I've had the blade end apart was when the spring flip mechanism went wrong. I think the immobiliser chip may be in there too.

[The_Laird]

Brilliant - thanks - that worked! :)

But there are 2 batteries with a combined voltage of 5.74 volts. The little engraved diagram in the fob suggest that it should, indeed, have 2 batteries. I’ll dig out my magnifying glass to see what type of batteries I need and what the voltage should be.

BTW, whenever I talk to people about this forum, they’re incredulous about how helpful (and rapid) forum members are.. This response to 6 minutes!

[MikkiJayne]

I think if there are two they will be CR1620

[HPsauce]

I think it's a testament to the D2 that no-one even remembers what the remote batteries are!

[briang9]

Hate to tempt fate as they say...never had to change either of mine in ten and half years ownership +++

[B@fink]

Well that’s hexed it...

[The_Laird]

I think if there are two they will be CR1620

They are indeed! :)

Just about the only battery that I don’t have!

[The_Laird]

Hate to tempt fate as they say...never had to change either of mine in ten and half years ownership +++

First time for me, too, Brian. For all 3 ‘8s. I’d get a pack and change them if I were you. Mine worked fine on Wednesday afternoon and nothing at all on Thursday morning. I was at home, so I was able to just swap keys and order the batteries, luckily.

[tc4332]

This won't help you but my D4 brought up a dash message about needing to change the keyfob battery. But still worked until I returned home.

Put a new 2032 in and all good.

[The_Laird]

Ah, put new batteries in and it still doesn’t work! Any thoughts folks?

[The_Laird]

Will it need to be reprogrammed or is it knackered?

All suggestions welcome!

[HPsauce]

Check they're inserted correctly and have decent voltage first.

Also, do you have VCDS, if so look for errors on the central locking.

IIRC reprogramming the remotes is pretty simple if you need to.

[MikkiJayne]

IIRC its very easy to put them in upside down, as the design of the battery compartment is counter-intuitive. It caught me out the first time.

Otherwise it may just need re-syncing which is pretty simple.

[steamship]

Others have beaten me to it about battery position, but for programming it, see the post by Mark on this same thread:

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showpost.php?p=112015&postcount=11

There is also a link to a YouTube video as well.

[The_Laird]

Thanks guys and gals!

I checked the voltage after inserting the batteries (6.5V) so I think they’re in the right way, but I’ll check again.

I do have VCDS but, as the other key works fine, I doubt if it a central locking fault.

And the suspect key works fine in the ignition.

So, I’ll check battery orientation and then reprogramme it.

[HPsauce]

And the suspect key works fine in the ignition.

So, I’ll check battery orientation and then reprogramme it.Ignition/immobiliser are totally independent (in the key) of remote unlocking so it should indeed start fine.
Shouldn't need reprogramming after a battery swap, check VCDS first it logs errors by key number.

[The_Laird]

Checked batteries - in the right way.

Watched the key coding video and noted that it’s quite different to Mark’s instructions!

Followed Mark’s instructions (note: the working key goes into the ignition!) and it worked!

Just going to see what VCDS says.

[The_Laird]

Key 2 09-00 Adaptation Limit Surpassed

[HPsauce]

That usually resets itself, just can't recall how. Usually comes from pressing the button accidentally in a pocket.

[briang9]

First time for me, too, Brian. For all 3 ‘8s. I’d get a pack and change them if I were you. Mine worked fine on Wednesday afternoon and nothing at all on Thursday morning. I was at home, so I was able to just swap keys and order the batteries, luckily.

What type/number battery do they take Jim?

[The_Laird]

What type/number battery do they take Jim?

Mine were two Panasonic CR1620

[HPsauce]

Old thread resurrection......
My remote didn't work just now so I unlocked the car manually and it started up just fine. :cool:

I opened up the key to check the battery voltages, they were "reasonable" but low. Put it back together and it worked, maybe poor contacts, hasn't been opened in my memory!

I recall someone was offering surplus batteries a while back - CR1620 I believe? Any still available if not I'll go online to get some?

[Adrian E]

Hi Andrew

That was me that had some going spare, but I sent them all to the Laird to rehome middle of last year

I find eBay a good source for branded cells at sensible prices - can usually pick up 4 or more for less than the price of 2 from the usual high street outfits