Bad Piston removed

[RanjS8]

Finally got the bad piston out today...what a mission of discovery this has been so far....Once I have a new piston I should be on my way to putting things back together....but I m sure there are gona be some tricky points along the way!!!!

With the cylinder head off, to get to the piston one has to remove the lower sump and upper sump. You may have to remove the oil pump as well, but since the offending piston was towards the back I could get to the bolts connecting it to the crankshaft without removing this.

The piston is connected to the crankshaft by two bolts and there is a metal sleeve between the piston and the cranshaft.

Once the two bolts were off, the piston is extracted from the top by pushing it up from the bottom....I used a long piece of wood as I didnt want to damage the bore lining.

Cylinder 7 piston was damaged and I removed cylinder 8 piston as the lining of the bore has slight scoring so I thought that I may as well solve this issue while I m at this point.

This is the first time in my life I have seen an actual piston so quite cool finally being able to put things into perspective.

[47p2]

The piston is connected to the crankshaft by two bolts and there is a metal sleeve between the piston and the cranshaft.


The metal sleeve will be the big end bearing.

Nice work there, always gives a good feeling when you are doing your own spannering.

On the rebuild the best advice is to take your time and check, check and check again before stitching everything up

[Goran]

Impressive effort Ranj, I dont think I would have the courage to take an engine appart.

[Architex_mA8tey]

Impressive effort Ranj, I dont think I would have the courage to take an engine appart.

And no bringing all the bits with you to Germany!! :tuttut:

[sloss]

You are venturing into the unknown....

You need to be careful on the rebuild to get the piston the right way round - it may be obvious but still something to watch. You will need a piston ring clamp to get the rings into the bore with no damage, plenty of oil and a wooden hammer shaft to tap it in.

The Big End Shells should have been kept with their piston so they go back onto the same Crank Journal unless they are scored and need replaced.

You are attempting a skilled job here so make sure you read the bumph and follow it in detail. I've rebuilt a lot of engines but not one of these, however it may be that new bolts are specified for the Bigends as they could be stretch ones or it could have nylock nuts which should be renewed as a matter of course - all this info needs to be known up front as does the torque for all bolts/nuts and the order of tightening.

Loads of little things to get right.

Good luck although luck shouldn't be a factor really +++

[RanjS8]

Thank you...I appreciate the advice...I figured that big end shells and bolts are specific to a piston so kept them seperate in the Morrison sandwich containers u see beneath the piston....but I certainly do have some reading to do before I start putting the engine together.

[gninnam]

Very brave and great work so far+++

Hope it works out for you (plus all the knowledge you are gaining)

[briang9]

Very impressive Ranj, keep up the good work+++

[Conan_the_Librarian]

I suspect your phone bill will match your parts bill before you've finished. Total respect on the effort though. The first one is very nerve wracking, but after that it gets easier! :ROFL:

[The_Laird]

Yeh, but starting on a V8 is very brave!+++

At least I did my first rebuilds on a 1965 mini - child's play compared to this project.:o