In simple terms bose amp does not work with aftermarket head units because uses floating ground between it and head unit but not the car while all the other head units and amplifiers ever made use the typical phono connection which means the ground between the head unit, the amp and the car is common.

In the bose system the ground between head unit and amp is separate to car's ground (has different potential) so you will always get a really loud pop in the speakers when you turn the car on, mute and on shut down with an aftermarket head unit as you will be introducing 2 different grounds at different potentials to eachother.


You also get more power, cooler running amp and more control over the sound, as you can use a DSP on the head unit or a separate DSP altogether that allows you to for example measure the distance of each speaker to your ears and input those measurements to the DSP software so that sound from each speaker arrives in your ears at the same time and 999 other options, this is very niche nerd stuff though.

I just want modern oem looking tech in my D2 like wireless android auto and car play, reverse camera or something as simple as DAB radio working which can't be done using the bose amp.

Update:
Applied an rnse-esque theme:
https://i.ibb.co/nRfkVFV/Whats-App-I...t-13-59-16.jpg

Coming up:

I'm half way into retrofitting a heated mfsw and of course I'll get the buttons on the wheel working with the radio +++

Thank you for keeping this updated. I'm currently fitting the same unit in my car and this thread has been a fantastic resource both in choosing the unit and helping with the install.👍

Thanks.

Video of head unit working with a retrofitted heated MFSW attached.
So far only volume up, volume down and track skipping buttons work.

I'm yet to figure out how to bind the phone button on the steering wheel to the head unit, and the r/t button whatever it does.

Road / track in Dodge parlance :D

Radio/telephone switchover

R/T button now working, so thats 5 out of 6 buttons on the wheel working.

On with the reasearch to get the last one worky worky

https://i.imgur.com/pr6IpDf.jpg

Had a spare moment to experiment with GPS antenna positioning.

I decided to move it out of the boot lid as I will be fitting a gpswart-less boot lid soon.

So i decided to de-lid the antenna and put it in 3d printed box which will be attached with double sided sticky tape:

https://i.ibb.co/0tvS3c9/De-lidded-gps.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/F816fKM/3d-printed-holder.jpg

First fitting location I tried is dash, it would have been mounted under the dash, above the vents:

https://i.ibb.co/Y0zt3H6/GPS-on-dash.jpg

Second location is rear parcel shelf:

https://i.ibb.co/F08GdhP/GPS-on-rear-parcel-shelf.jpg

And here's the reception quality in the original location:

https://i.ibb.co/Fx8gNzN/GPS-in-original-location.jpg

I ended up picking rear parcel shelf for it's final resting place.

It's a very long time ago now, and on my PF S8, but I ended up putting the "puck" outside at the very rear of the back window, just in front of the boot lid.
I'll see if I can find a picture...

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1683571107

Much better reception there as the rear screen does block the signals to an extent. And that was for the very rare RNS-C.
It was a bit of a PITA to graft it onto the existing wiring, but as you're running a new one should be pretty simple.

Was the gps module in the boot lid incompatible?

The reason why i de-lidded mine was to hide it under the parcel shelf trim to have as much of an oem look as possible, this may be a good idea for others thought +++