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-   D3 - Axles, Brakes, Suspension and Steering (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/forumdisplay.php?f=41)
-   -   Parking Brake Malfunction - Contact Workshop! (https://forum.a8parts.co.uk/showthread.php?t=11087)

Architex_mA8tey 24th January 2016 12:55 PM

I've bookmarked this rear epb on eBay if it's any use . . .
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-GB

snapdragon 3rd April 2016 02:51 PM

Well, now I have another EPB problem on the same side.
Usual beeps, messages and icons, the brake was stuck on a bit.

Brake disk not reached.
Clamping force not achieved.

When the EPB is applied or de-engaged, it whirs for about 30 seconds as though a cog has stripped or a cogwheel clutch is slipping.

I removed the motor and operated the EPB and the motor and gear did turn
but noisily. I wound back the caliper with a T45 torx but when I refitted the motor it stuck it put the brake back on and left it there :mad:

I think I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor. They seem to start at about £220 which is almost the price of an exchange caliper. I'd rather just get the motor though to save opening the hydraulics and save the core charge while I return my old one and hope they deem it 'serviceable'.
I also notice that some exchange units don't have that thick foil/tin shield all over the plastic motor housing, what is that for? Interference? When you buy a new one from Audi, it comes flat and is self-adhesive you have to stick it on.

Has anyone seen them cheaper that £220?
Will try TPS on monday.

Architex_mA8tey 3rd April 2016 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by snapdragon (Post 109339)
I think I need to bite the bullet and get a new motor. They seem to start at about £220 which is almost the price of an exchange caliper.
Has anyone seen them cheaper that £220?
Will try TPS on monday.

That's about right but you're not allowing for the surcharge coming back off that - at ECP recently I paid £230 for one less a £60 surcharge by taking in my old unit when I bought the new one so only £170 paid +++

snapdragon 3rd April 2016 05:43 PM

Thanks Architex, ECP seem to have doubled the price, maybe they are about to do a up to 50% off everything sale?
I managed to cut the lid off this thing and found it had cracked in what is the usual place. That may be the problem, it also had signs of rust and water ingress. I have washed the thing in brake cleaner and petrol until it ran clear. I can't see anything else wrong with it. there is no clutch. My current theory is that the swash plate assembly was able to pop past it's stops and the T45 spline drive was popping out of the brake caliper.
I can't see how the belt could slip or these cogs slip and the wobble-plate cogs/swash plate seem to tight and not damaged.

I intend on greasing it, fixing the plastic and maybe shimming or bushing out any slop and try again.

Looking on google, this is a common problem on VWs which is the same design but not an identical part and there are a few Passat threads about fixing them.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...5/IMG_3179.mp4

Somerandomguy 4th April 2016 05:50 PM

Cleaning it an glueing the motor back on will only work for a little while, the problem is that the motor mount corrodes which expands the mount and forces the cracks open again.

If you just replace the motor and not the caliper, there's a high likelihood that the new motor will crack again fairly soon because of the corrosion.

snapdragon 8th April 2016 08:20 PM

Today I refitted the part after, I plastic-welded and JB-welded with fibre-glass mat the casing and put everything back in greased with special silicone grease and resealed the lid on. Fired up and exactly the same. :mad:
The drive belt is rotating the big cog but when I apply resistance (to simulate brake applied) to the output drive the wobble-plate 50:1 reducer slips and makes the noise I was hearing. Everything was sound as a pound and smooth in the house so it must just be too much wear in everything, especially the offset shaft of the swashplate and it can't transfer the load anymore, thankfull ECP have put the price back down so ordered a new caliper +++ Thanks guys.

Somerandomguy 8th April 2016 08:25 PM

If its not too late, ECP have 15% off with the code DISCOUNT15

snapdragon 9th April 2016 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Somerandomguy (Post 109827)
If its not too late, ECP have 15% off with the code DISCOUNT15

Thanks chap I used it and the base price is less than last week.+++

snapdragon 13th April 2016 11:43 AM

Thanks everyone, I got the new part from ECP and they refunded my core charge the next day in the branch - so worked out about £190.

The new caliper and EPB assembly looks beautiful and new, interestingly, it pulls more amps during operation (~2.5 vs ~1.5A) and operates a bit slower than the other side.
I suppose it's tight and must need running in. The new one looks brand new, not refurbished. I'm going to change the rubber brake hoses too as I strained the one on that side a bit as I didn't know it needed disconnecting from the inboard side before unscrewing off the caliper and don't trust it's integrity.

Nikkei92 9th June 2016 06:25 PM

Another Parking Brake Malfunction
 
Hello,


I have another Parking Brake Malfunction. Same code as snapdragon had at the beginning.


Code:

Address 53: Parking Brake        Labels: 4E0-910-801.clb
  Part No SW: 4E0 910 801 A    HW: 4E0 907 801
  Component: EPB  AV1C1010  H01 1010 
  Revision: AV1C1010   
  Coding: 0000331
  Shop #: WSC 00656 210 88563
  VCID: 1D3B9B93C43580D675-8048

1 Fault Found:
02432 - Supply Voltage for Left Parking Brake Motor (V282)
            012 - Electrical Fault in Circuit - MIL ON
            Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 11111100
                    Fault Priority: 1
                    Fault Frequency: 16
                    Reset counter: 103
                    Mileage: 233128 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2003.03.05
                    Time: 07:00:35


- Both 30A fuses near by battery are OK.
- I bought a new motor to the left side but that didn't help at all. Also tried to install motors to the different sides but still problem stays at the left side. Just wanted to make sure a new motor is not broken already.
- I measured with a multimeter a whole wire from motor to control unit and its OK.
- I bought an used control unit with part number SW 4E0 910 801 D and installed it today but still, same fault code.


I have not changed a caliper, but it doesn't make sense to me how it would make any difference in this case, when fault code says "Electrical Fault in Circuit"?


Does anyone have any idea how to test further?
Is there any tricks what i should try with VCDS?
I haven't found any relays or fuses to the EPB except those two 30A in luggage?


Thanks.


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