Yes, just some plain steel cut to 2m lengths by the blacksmith. I might give them a paint when I stop using them this time though!

And that is exactly where I got the lift from – they were very helpful. I went for the 2.5 ton model, which more than covers the S8 (though they did mention that they are rated conservatively).

The only lift (of this type) I found that fitted the S8 was the BL-6000XLT Quick Jack, but this was quite a bit more expensive, and would not have fitted between the 205’s wheels. It had a maximum lift spread of just over 1.9m, so just fits the S8 (which is just under 1.9m from outside edge-to-outside edge of the lifting points).

... and a quiet word to the wise. I had a tow bar fitted to my D2Q 1997. The garage in France put it up on their hoist and fitted it. Afterwards the boot lid was not such a good fit and the car didn't look quite right. We put the car on a flat concrete surface, loosened all the tow bat bolts, gave the car a jiggle and tightened the bots back up. All was well.

Thes cars, despite their strength, can flex.

Cheers

I wouldn't be surprised if she showed them how to replicate a factory fit of the screen plus improvements

I think you meant to post this in another thread!

Correct, apologies

Scott, just starting looking into this again, would you be willing to share the drawing you made up so I could try to obtain similar from a local steel supplier?

Presumably you still need some kind of jacking point pad on the steels?

I can’t find the original CAD file sadly – I might have deleted it when I did a big computer file clear out a few months ago, but I do have a copy of the pdf I sent to my engineer for his thoughts.

Attachment 28905

It shows how the Kwik Lift fits under the car but comes no-where close to fitting; it then show it with the official extenders, which still don’t fit, and then with some steel beams. Note that the car need to be raised on ramps (or some such) first to fit the lift and steel under. I used these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274671536510

You must also remember to put these back under before lowering, or there is a chance the lift will not be able to re-elevate the car (I believe it needs to be able to rise a bit with no load first, which it will not be able to do if you lower it without the small ramps; indeed, it will just bottom out without the car even touching the ground).

I used some thin rubber matting on the steel under the car lifting points, but nothing else, and it has been doing well, on-and-off for the last 8 months! I certainly could not have done (or at least would not want to have done) what I have been doing with jack stands… the lifts have been brilliant.

I would also recommend a creeper trolly, as the lift blocks access to most of the sides and it is a very long car to crawl to the middle of! The trolly makes it a doddle and there is still loads of room to work.

Incidentally, I did not draw the car – that is from a CAD file I found online :):

Attachment 28906

Hi,

Thank you for posting all of this! Trying to navigate my own version of this issue, hoping this solution can work for me, too, with a Quickjack here in the US.

Called around a few steel suppliers local to me. None of them knew what "RHS" was, until one shop said, "You mean, 'Rectangular Tubing?' and in the brochure they sent me it's listed as "Carbon Steel Mechanical & Structural, Rectangular Tubing."

Does this sound like equivalent material to what you used?

They aren't listed in metric here but when I did the conversion, the closest standard sizing they have would be a 2" x 4" x 1/4" -- all just slightly larger/thicker (so, presumably, no less strong?) than the 50x100x5 dimensions you used in mm.

Appreciate anyone willing to chime in with more informed perspective/experience, in case I'm missing something.

Thanks!

Should be good with what you found, sizing is similar so a# you say shouldn’t be much different in terms of strength.

For reference RHS in U.K. is Rectangular Hollow Section so ‘rectangular tubing’