Great +++

What was the outcome with the obsolete hose Brian? Did you manage to get one made?

Yeah think he went to Pirtek Mark

+++

Missed that, yeah you say that but there are plenty of tractors going around with "farmer repairs" to their hydraulics.

Great it's sorted. +++

I got bitten by the power steering hose too on Saturday. Luckily I wasn't far from home.
It started as a faint buzzing, increasing to a whining noise.
When I parked at home I could see oil dripping under the car and there was only a little bit left at the bottom of the reservoir.
I had a feel around and can feel that rubber has definitely split on one of the hoses but not sure which, delivery or return.

I am glad Mikki posted about Pritek, I was going to go to them, but now thinking its not worth it if they can't replicate the original hose.
The price of replacements from Audi is truly shocking. I think the dealer said £390+VAT unless I misheard?

Sounds about right. I think I paid close to £700 for all 3 hoses. I'm guessing the price rise is inversely proportional to the amount of stock they have left.

Hope you get it sorted!

Was it a stock item or a special, Brian? And did you have to pay silly money?

I’ve got a slight leak from the hose directly below the reservoir. Is that a special hose?

Was made up Jim don't know the cost yet this was the simplest of the three the other 2 were £625 From TPS :eek:

DNot sure which is which Jim We thought only one of mine was leaking but when stripped down all 3 were pretty poor TBH, might be worth ordering them anyway as they seem to be getting scarce

ETA pics, these are the two from mine which I replaced with genuine ones from TPS the other just seems to be a straightforward piece of rubber pipe

Is that a short one that goes straight to the pump Jim? If it's the one I'm thinking of I don't think it's super expensive (or at least it wasn't). I had that one replaced a few years before the other 3 hoses because it was leaking slightly at the pump end.

I think the 3 hoses in question all run from the pump to the steering rack (or maybe it's just 2 of them, I'm not sure). I think part of the problem is that they pass through (or very near) the n/s wheel arch so they're a little exposed to the weather and anything the wheel can throw at them. It was under the wheel arch area where my leak started.

Think that might be the one I had to get made up from Pirtek, don't know how much it was yet.......

Well I got 'lucky', the high pressure delivery pipe I need is 'only' £289 + VAT from Germany.
The dealer was kind to me and is giving me a 10% discount.
I may as well get the cheaper return pipe which is only £78.

All in all £400 for two pipes! They better last another 16 years!

Does anyone have the three part numbers for these pipes? If they are already scarce, it may be worth trying to track some down before they all disappear, as others have mentioned. That way we can all add to our stockpile of 'spares'.

4D0422887K - supply hose from reservoir to pump. Think this is NLA already
4D2422893D - pressure hose front half (one of the expensive ones)
4D2422893M - pressure hose rear half (the other expensive one)
4D2422891C - return line to cooler (I think Mark had the last of these)
4D0422891C - return from cooler to reservoir (just a plain hose)

These are all for V8s btw. V6s are different. The two pressure hoses are the ones to get as the union between the two is in the wheel well and rusts out. These are the complicated ones which are non-trivial to replicate. The pump supply and the return hoses can be recovered by crimping new hose on old unions.

Wow! Is there anything you don't know about these cars MJ?

Brilliant MJ.

Just realised I got a number wrong - pressure hose rear half is 4D2422893M :)

Tintin, MJ is fallable, after all! :-(

Everyone is entitled to the odd mistake, once in a while. +++ Just glad you're here to help the rest of us.

Just been having alook at my PS hoses to assess their state given MJ's comments about the corrosion issues and their exposure in the wheel arch area. Mine appear in good shape with no corrosion on the sleeve joints/crimps and the rubber appears good too. As a help to others identifying the hoses I produced the diagram below from the on-line parts app suitably annotated with MJs parts ID. (excuse the poor colouring in :) )

Nicely done David! +++

Except for the colouring in of course. Didn't they teach you how to keep inside the lines at school? :p

I was more of an abstract artist Mark. :)

Is it worth denso taping the pipes if they are in good condition to avoid corrosion etc?

I managed to get a good hose from A8parts and electrolytically de-rusted the main union. Painted it, wrapped it in self-amalgamating tape, and then covered it in adhesive-lined heatshrink. No more mud and water getting in there :D

I guessed you would be way ahead of me there MJ! +++

MJ which paint did you use? And which heatshrink?
My pipes have arrived I'm thinking its a good idea to future proof them as much as possible before installing them.

Ronseal No-rust Metal Paint, and then some 4:1 shrink ratio adhesive-lined heatshrink I found on ebay :) I did all the crimped joints with heatshrink too.

Thanks Mikki!
Do you know the torque settings for the pipe bolts, both delivery return and return pipes please.
My computer which has ElsaWin on it won't start up!
Is it just a bolt on job then re-fill, no complicated procedures to bleed air out?

Thanks!

No idea on torque specs tbh, but I'll have a look later. You can't get a torque wrench on most of the bolts anyway so I just tighten them until they feel right. Make sure you use new sealing washers.

No complicated procedures. Just re-fill and swing the steering from lock to lock until the pump quietens down.

Thanks Mikki!
Good point its so tight in there I wont be able to get a torque wrench in there. I'll just do it by feel.
I ordered all new washers and banjos. Just hope the old ones are not seized up.

There are two item 8s on the diagram. Should one of them be 15?

And is there a diagram of just where these hoses are - I need to check mine too.

Their are a number of bits labelled as "8" in the diagram but are really just part of the same hose - i.e. the banjo unions at either end with the associated metal pipe which is crimped to the main rubber hose. One of the banjos is diagramatically separared from the hose labelled "8" as it is the same end piece as for the V6 (two part) hose, item 7. I think in MJs case, it was the union in the V6 hose which was a particular problem.

You need to remove the belly pan/undertray and you find the PS pump with all the hoses in the front wheel well area which is where the corriosion etc happens apparently.

It’s the caption where 2 part numbers are called item 8. Does the wheel arch liner need to come off too?

Item 8 on RHD V8s is made up of two pieces:

4D2422893D - pressure hose front half
4D2422893M - pressure hose rear half

The union between the two is in the passenger side wheel arch. Jack it up and have a look with a torch for this:

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1518372744

The return hose is directly underneath it.

Ah Ok, I'll need to check the online parts thingy with the parts numbers against MJs post agai n. Maybe I made a mistake and she was talking about the V6 2-part hose?? [edit; see MJs post above]

The wheel arch liner doesnt need to come off to check the condition. +++

Thanks guys. Even after many years on this forum, I still find myself amazed at how helpful (and QuickTime respond) everyone is. I know it’s been said before, but the members of this forum are absolutely essential in me being able to continue to enjoy my ‘8s.

I am about to dive into this, or under the wheel arch :)
What can I use to remove power steering fluid off the subframe and other parts?
Its probably too late it may have damaged the subframe paint already.
Is something like laundry powder or even fairy liquid ok? Or should I get a proper degreaser like Gunk from Halfords?
Thanks!

Yours is different, being LHD. It won't have that union - I think the hose just goes straight on to the rack. If its leaking though I presume it also has a steel piece through the wheel well which has rusted away the same as RHD versions.

PS fluid isn't corrosive - its just oil, so shouldn't have affected the subframe paint. Brake cleaner is best for stuff like that. Spray it on and it will dissolve the oil and take it away with it without damaging anything. Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HOLTS-PRO...UAAOSwx6pYpbAt

Don't use carb cleaner or tar remover as they are too aggressive, or laundry detergents as they are generally alkaline and not good for aluminium! Gunk is very effective, but the smell is dreadful and lasts for ages. It also eats driveways! A mild engine degreaser would also work.

Thanks Mikki, good advice I will keep laundry powder well away from the car :)
Yes on my car the delivery pipe is one piece. Looks like its well protected (crimp joints covered by thick foam rubber) and already painted.
Only the return hose has the crimp joints exposed.

I found this not-so-good site which has some D2 manuals on it. Seems that the banjos on the pump are both 50nm so need to be quite tight. I couldn't find settings for the ones on the rack end but I will assume 50Nm also as one of them is high pressure.
The high pressure hose bolt on the pump is a real pain, the hose fr the reservoir is in the way. I'll have to loosen it and move that hose to get to the bolt.

http://workshop-manuals.com/audi/s8_...iew/page_3803/

Its funny how when doing something else you find unrelated things. I think I found my gearbox oil leak. The hoses/pipes look good and dry all the way to the radiator. But on the gearbox one of the banjo bolts appears to be missing a washer, and that pipe and bolt are covered in oil. So that's my next job, to replace that bolt or at least the washers. At least it looks like I dont need the out of production hoses! for now...

Found the info for the rack banjos on the above site. Weirdly the high pressure hose bolt is 40Nm, the return hose bolt is 50Nm.
Oh well, who am I to question Audi instructions :)

Could be because they are different size bolts so they want different torques to get the same clamping pressure on the crush washers :)

You are so smart, I would have never thought of that +++

For me it turned out more than 1 day's job, I thought I could get a shallow socket to undo the bolts at the rack, but quickly realised it would not fit. I have one of those gooseneck/offset spanners but that would not fit either. So I went on a stroll to halfords to get some spanners. Now I manage to loosen most of the bolts, but what almost finished me off was the two 10mm bolts in the rubber+steel clip holding the pipes close to the bulkhead so they dont wonder into the spring. Audi put this clip right behind the spring they are a pain to get to. Plus the rubber they go through makes them spring back when you try to unwind them half a turn.
For those bolts luckily I had a tiny 10mm spanner I bought from a pound shop for my rc planes. It did the trick because it could fit behind the spring and do a half turn on the bolt. Also a manual rubber flexi drive helped but its not great quality, it was almost not flexi enough. It helped speed up the bolt after it was already loose.
And by then it was dark so I left final removal and re-fitting of new pipes for another day. What a job!

I was thinking if anyone wants to torque up the rack bolts with a small torque wrench, something like this small crows foot might work.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flare-Nut...QINYNVRpEb4B6Q

I forgot to say, anyone attempting this job, you will need 22mm and 19mm wrenches and sockets. The bolt on the pump is 22mm, the bolts on the rack are 22mm and 19mm
And a tiny 10mm spanner for the bracket in the wheel well, a flexi drive will be useful too. And if like in my case your pump to reservoir pipe is blocking the other pump bolt you will need a 24mm socket to loosen and move that pipe out of the way.