Have you ordered the one like ive got Jullian ? I got mine from an english seller was here in 2 days .

When using it always make sure you go to dc as when you flick through ranges it always defaults to ac , and always zero it when using amps function after changing ranges and when zeroing it dont have clamp around the cable

Its really handy ive been using it on all kinds at work

It's identical Lee; I used the model number but all of them on Ebay seemed to be from China / Hong Kong.

After I ordered, I thought to look on Amazon and could have got one from the UK :(

Julian

Does it stop the drain if you pull the fuse on 42?

What else does it affect?

I haven't tried Lee's approach of 'proving' it by taking out the KESSY fuse; I'm not sure how he proved it and I don't have the equipment that he has access to. [The superb Pico scope with its logging appears to be upwards of £1000 :(]. But I'm hoping the £30 clamp meter will at least show 'something' when it turns up.

However, while I'm waiting for it, I looked at some wiring diagrams yesterday :Confused:.

I can see from VCDS Measuring Blocks that the right rear door lock button appears to be constantly 'on', so I might try taking out the fuse for the door ECU instead. From what I can work out that is fuse 41 in the right dash panel fuse box. I could live with no access via that door for a week to see if I still get the drain.

Julian

If that works I might do that.
I got be changing my handles for a while yet.
Got to order four latches as well.

Will it stop the start stop button?

The £30 amps clamp wil do the job just fine , have you access to a compressor and air blower , squirt Wd down the handle button and blow it out then see if you can get the button to work in the data blocks .

If he doors have individual fuses for the out station ecm yes pull that to issolate that door then see if the battery is getting dragged down

When you get your amps clamp you can see what it is pulling when asleep and you will be able to pull fuses to issolate electrical circuits and see the difference on the amps draw , rather than guessing if there is a higher amps draw than the norm .

Update - Trying the door fuse
 

I haven't pulled the 'Advanced Entry' fuse that Lee indicated yet as I wasn't sure of the consequence of disabling the whole entry system. [I presume Lee disabled it overnight and used the sophisticated Pico system to watch the current map for the whole night to see there were no regular pulse peaks of drain increase from the now disabled entry system].

But while I await my clamp meter from China, I thought I'd try and test what happens when I take out the right rear door fuse from the right hand end of the dashboard. [This is the 7.5A fuse at location 41]. I did this because I assumed all contact with the door would be lost and the 'always on' button wouldn't be able to wake up the Kessy system.

But it didn't work as I thought it would. :( The door was disabled so that the lock and handles wouldn't work, but VCDS could still 'see' the Rear Right Door ECU and I could still look at the ECU Measuring Blocks. And if VCDS can see the ECU, the ECU would obviously continue to 'wake' the Kessy system while the car was off and locked. So the ECU interface to other ECUs in the car is not routed through the fuse path.

I've tried making sense of the circuit diagrams for the 2005 on Right door ECU [Section 87 of the Current Flow PDF] but can't work out how to isolate the ECU signal to prove or disprove the door ECU as the cause of my drain. I guess I could get the door panel off and cut the wire from the button to the ECU - at least I can work out what colour that is from Section 87. :)

Julian

Perhaps just unplug the handle!?

Or unplug loom connector on from the door at the B post junction ...or don't worry to much about pulling that Kessy fuse ...yes some things will stop working but hey hoe ....if you want to prove a fault .......

I don't know how we managed in days gone by ....my 2L Cortina did not even have keyless entry ....you had to put the key in the door and actually turn it to get in !! Rediculous for sure .....!! come to think about it my Datsun Sunny was the same ....MEH !!! putting keys in the lock .....indeed ....

If only it was that easy :( Getting the door panel off is non-trivial on these cars.

"Or unplug loom connector on from the door at the B post junction" ex Lee: hadn't thought about attacking the loom but I'm not sure what's involved there ...

HOWEVER; following an earlier suggestion by Lee by, I flooded the door button with AF Spray - an aerosol lubricant my Dad left me years ago - and I seemed to have stopped the button being 'live'. VCDS now reports '0' in the measuring block for the button rather than '1' that's been constant for recent weeks.

So I'm keeping my eye on the battery level for the next few days in the hope it's temporarily solved. I can then attack the problem with the knowledge that the button IS the cause.

Julian