Brim was used and went down OK.
Infill was 60% and used 1 mm wall thickness - probably both to much!

That's weird. I'm printing parts for a Hypercube at the moment with 6 walls and 50% cubic infill and they are coming out fine.

I wonder if its because of the tall sections at each end with no fillets or bracing?

Inoticed the curve before the uprights were printed to be honest - it is strange.

I will redeisgn it and try again - this time it will be printed on its side!

Cheers

It will be stronger printed on its side anyway since the bead of filament will be U shaped rather than flat. Also consider putting a fillet on the curves (like the inside ones) if possible as that causes the print head to change direction gradually which gives less ringing.

Actually, worth mentioning a print quality improvement trick I spotted in Cura, since we're sort of on the subject.

The CR-10S default jerk setting (how fast it changes direction) is 10. Cura tries to change jerk to 20-30 which increases ringing and reduces print quality. In Settings Visibility / Speed turn on 'Enable Jerk Control' and then uncheck the box in the print profile so Cura doesn't try to set the value higher than the printer can handle. A CoreXY like the Hypercube can change direction very quickly since its only moving the print head, but a cartesian machine like the CR-10 with the moving print bed just can't do that and it ends up just stretching the belt which shows in the print.

Great tips +++
Will give them a go and see how it performs.

Nice one MJ.
Give the cats a cuddle from me.

I'm running Cura on a MAC and that option doesn't appear to available (well not that I could find it....)

Odd. I'll grab some screen shots later. There's a load of other things I've found so I'll probably put them all together in my thread +++

Cheers.
I noticed you have the none glass bed (is it the super plate?) - think I need one too. Where did you get it from and do you still need to use something on it to help the plastic stick?

That's an Anycubic Ultrabase - about £40 from ebay. Its superb - doesn't need any tape or glue. Everything sticks to it, and pops off as it cools down.

The bed needs to be very level, and it needs a little squish on the first layer, so say a 0.15mm gap for an 0.2 first layer. I do the bed levelling with the bed hot and the nozzle cold and use a 0.05mm feeler gauge to set it up which is usually ok. Its fairly flat, but not perfect so it does sometimes need a little fine tuning on the first print after a re-level but then its fine for a while until I fiddle with something.

So far I've printed PLA, PETG, CPE, ABS and ASA on it. PLA and CPE are the only ones I've had nice prints from. The first PETG print came off halfway through as I had the fan too high and it warped, but with no fan it sticks fine but gives a horrible print. I need to find a happy medium there. ASA almost didn't come off at all :eek3: ABS prints ok but warps horribly, ASA prints ok-ish but shows a lot of layer wobble which PLA doesn't do. I think I need to fiddle with the extrusion multiplier and temperatures for that.

I'm about to try some Nylon next, but I've read that likes to stick best to phenolic resin board (tufnol) so I've ordered a sheet of that instead.

My filament of choice is either Fillamentum or Protopasta btw. Quality is outstanding and Fillamentum have a huge range for very sensible prices. Protopasta are a bit esoteric - some amazing metallic colours and carbon-filled, PLA only, but high-temp which can be heat treated for strength and temperature resistance. I'm trying to work out how the shrinkage and warping can be mitigated so I can print hypercube parts with it.

Oh, and if you want something really special, Polyalchemy Elixir. Oh my, that's lovely stuff. Very weird to print with, but the finished items look like silk!