When I read this I suspected the power output would be too low for charging.
The interior fan runs at a significantly slower speed when on solar power than on internal power.

Maintenance is a good idea, though 0.65amps isn't much. The CTek maintenance chargers operate at 0.8amps, and like ainarssems said, that kind of amperage will only maintain a battery, it is totally insufficient for charging (unless you have about 6 months to wait, and even then I doubt it'll get you far!).
Even a standard 4amp charger will only get you to about 60% as the batteries internal resistance increases as it charges.

It'll be interesting to see how the maintenance charger mod goes, though as my car spends about 80% of its life in a garage, I'm not sure if it'd be worth while for me!

Thanks, so isolating diodes should do the trick. Yes re-reading the page it looks like the rest of the circuit has to be built around the LT3652 module, and the module looks like it has adjustable current and maintenance voltage, with a LiFePo4 battery I wouldn't want it to switch to 13.5V maintenance voltage as that would not charge the battery at all.

Very good point! I am so silly, since I'm planning to move to somewhere with a garage, maybe this wont work for me. Unless I make a static unit on the outside of the garage to plug into the battery when the car is going to be stationary for a while.

I did change relay for switching over to fan when hot with 5V version and it does work reasonably well. Sometimes it makes couple of clicks when switching to fan but it does work. It has been 1 week now and I have been monitoring voltages on the remote control from aftermarket alarm to avoid drain from battery by central locking pump and lights in doors and boot when they are open and so that readings are consistent with car being left for a week untouched. From the past experience I know know that fully charged battery drops from 12.6V to 12.4V in the car if left on it's own for a week. Good news are that now the battery is still at 12.6V after 1 week. I have been checking voltages early in the morning when I come home after work slightly after 6 am so that battery have had a rest during night and settled. The reading has been 12.6 V every morning. By 8 am it raises to 12.8V and is 13V on a sunny day, I have even seen it at 13.2V couple of days. On a cloudy day it takes a bit longer than 8am to reach 12.8V and it remains at 12.8V, does not go any higher.

So all in all the system does work I just need to find a good place for the temperature switch to make it work effectively. I the past I have been putting car on the charger if it does not get used for 2 weeks and voltage drops to 12.2V, looks like with the solar panel connected to keep battery topped up I should get away without need to use external charger.

I will put together a small guide, parts I used and diagram for anybody who would like to replicate it shortly.

Here is a quick picture of remote control showing voltage 13V taken this morning at 09:20, it was 12.6V at 06:30 but has gone up to 13V now.

http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...1&d=1429345309

There is no reason why 4 amp charger will not fully charge battery to 100% as long as it can provide voltage over 13.2V( normally you need 14V to effectively reach 100% charge level but you can do it with 13.2V as bare minimum it will just take very long time). Pretty much any charger can reach voltages in excess of 15V but most will be limited to 14.8V. In fact most smart chargers including Ctek will limit charging current to 0.8A when battery reaches 80% to reduce water loss from battery.

It all depends how you configure your circuit, things like maintenance charging, PVM and low current mode are optional extras and voltages are adjustable using different value resistors. The only limitation is that input voltage has to be at least 2.6V higher then charging voltage as it does not do step up. So for a regular 18V panel you can get output voltages up to 15.4V but it will not work with 8V solar panel from OEM sunroof. LT8490 would be more suitable choice for OEM panel but I cannot be bothered to spend extra time and money trying to figure out how to build my own circuit around it.

What's the point of that, you still need to connect cables to the car, might as well just use regular battery charger and save the extra expense and hassle for solar panel on the garage.