Odd how it always seems to be capacitors, had to replace 3 in my Pajero (Shogun) ECU, then from dead to running perfectly :)

with that, the goo drained out of them with the heat cycles & upset the pcb & legs, so had to be a little creative with the dremel, tinned copper wire & some good old fashioned leaded solder.... the ROHS compliant stuff is rubbish, just can't take the heat cycles & crack (which is why the nvidia GRAPHICS chipsets on laptops give up- so never let your teenagers use them on their beds - blocking the ventilation as well as clogging the heatsinks)

Not afraid to get oily & dirty, or burn my fingers with the Weller, Pace, or gas iron...

Curious to see how you get on with it HP

I don't find the cruise control operation especially intuative. Despite having had the car for 30 months and using the cruise quite often, I still find myself selecting increase speed rather than disengage!!! Which can lead to some interesting moments :)

I'd love my cruise control to work properly, but I have neither the time or money to replace the duff indicator stalk on mine.

Mine has a mind of its own, some days it will work others it wont. On the days it decides to work I can set the speed, however I cannot increase speed using the slider as operating this to the left disengages the cruise control. So I can set it and decrease speed and thats it.

Well, maybe it is the controller box, not the stalk? That's the way my thinking is going now.

This morning I went for a short drive - basically to fill up with petrol and a couple of other errands at the same time.
It was damp and quite chilly - 5C when I left home, 6C along the main road.

And it was working again, on the way there (possibly after a little initial hesitation) and after a 15-minute or so stop perfectly on the way back. :Confused:

Just need to find a dry day to get into the box with all the ECU's.... :(

More symptoms to support this view. On Sunday I started off on a trip (cold damp day) and it was working fine. However at one point it just disengaged, but a few seconds later I was able to re-engage it! I didn't touch the brake - honest!
Later on (after a stop) it just wasn't working at all. The stalk was "on" all the time (as it always is).

Well I've had the cover off the electronics box with the controllers in it. Perfectly dry inside and no signs of any ingress of anything non-human.

Cover was a bit tricky as some of the bolts were corroded into the sockets, but it's gone back on securely and still works!
There was a bit of accumulated crud down the inaccesible edge under the windscreen so I hoovered and scraped out as much of that as I could. The seals looked OK though.

However once inside I'm rather wary. The main ECU is obviously outboard with nothing under it. So I left that alone.

The gearbox ECU is inboard and held down by 2 bolts at the front edge. I undid those so I could take it out but there was only limited movement and what appeared to be a release lever for the cabling was blocked by a fuse carrier. It wasn't obvious how to get it fully out - can anyone explain in detail?

Under that there is at least one more ECU but I couldn't see any label on the visible one. Is that likely to be the Cruise Control or is there something else to get out first?.

Having looked online I can only find an illustration of a LHD system, and there the ECU's are mounted vertically so the cruise unit can be taken out easily. :(
There are no other units mentioned so I hope the one under the gearbox ECU is the cruise control.

Has anyone delved that far into the box who can advise? Ideally without having to unplug the other ECU's.

Well, as noted in another thread I obtained a replacement Cruise ECU and had it fitted by my local VAG independent (while in there for a gearbox fluid & filter change) and it now all works fine. +++

Apparently all the ECU's had to come out to get at it, it's right at the bottom, so I'm glad I left it to them.

Nice one, it's very satisfying having the cruise back on song! My spanner waver did say it was a pain to swap mine out because of the stuff that needed to be removed.....

My "spanner waver" charged me £56 (inc VAT) labour to fit and test mine. Not bad really.