Just checked mine and the passenger door is saying the button is pressed.

I'm going to look at spraying the button.

Julian,
Did you just spray it under the rubber or on the rubber?

Scott, I just sprayed large amounts of AF-Spray on and under the button and pushed it a few times. Not sure if it's still off as I've been a bit busy. But the clamp meter has finally arrived. :)

==================================================

Sorry for delay, been:

a) away to see my Mum - her 80th Birthday,
b) decorating
c) sorting out insurance when foreign artic. hit my house [in a residential cul-de-sac] at midnight. [Driver from Moldova who only spoke Russian and Romanian, Cab unit with CZ:Czech Republic plate, Trailer with D:Germany plate, Haulage Company based in Austria] Try sorting that lot out :mad:

Julian

Battery drain - it's not the door button
 

Now that I've got other things out the way, I sadly [for me, anyway] have to report that I still have a battery drain despite the 'Right Rear Door' ECU no longer reporting that the button is being pressed continuously. :Confused:

So now I've got to reinvestigate from scratch :-(

I've got a little bit of help from the new VCDS Battery History tool, which does at least tell me how much went out the battery in the last idle time, but I might have to resort to the 'measure the fuse current' trick and try and detect a small[ish] current flow.

However, one thing puzzles me; since I have to open the driver/passenger door [or boot] to get at the fuses and opening the doors triggers the gateway and entry system, does anyone have any suggestion as to how to overcome this issue please?

Julian

Open all doors and bootlid but then close all the latches so the car thinks its closed leaving drivers door latch till last, press the buttons for interior and tilt monitoring then close the latch on drivers door and lock the car so the alarm arms as normal but without interior monitoring or tilt sensing. Your free then to check the fuses etc once the car goes to sleep

When I was diagnosing battery drain on mine, I used a normal multimeter which I connected in series with the battery on the Amps range. You need a meter that can deal with large current flow, and you must not attempt to start the car with the meter in the circuit.

The wires to the meter were fine enough that I was able to have the wires outside the car with the meter and the car fully locked as usual and could monitor the current draw in realtime from the kitchen window.

But my D3 seemed to go to sleep with all the doors locked, but the boot open. After 15 mins the meter said the below.
http://forum.a8parts.co.uk/attachmen...0&d=1444725462

However my drain problem disappeared all on its own and I've not had it since, I do however have another problem in part brought about because the D3 is hardly used these days.

Useful tips ...
 

Delboy/mannyo; thanks for those replies; some things to think about there +++

I don't have 'under cover' storage though, so I need some good dry [and warmer] weather first.

But, some queries though before I try it!

1) Do I just close the latches by poking a screwdriver into the door / boot locks and pressing the lever?

2) I presume that will that stop the doors closing? That is; don't try it in the rain!

3) How do I unlock the doors afterwards? Just click the remote?

4) How long, in practice, before the car shuts down? Is it always about 15 mins?

Thanks - Julian

Hi Julian,

I think Uwe posted this on the Ross-Tech forums. I found it really useful. It suggests an hour to wait until the car shuts down.

https://youtu.be/lRcj1fQcWwU

Thanks Tony; that was useful.

I think it answers all my questions ...

Julian

Nice video Tony, shows exactly what I was talking about, added it to my bookmarks as its a great one to keep. +++